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Old 04-10-2008, 12:10 PM   #1
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Default Wheel weights

I am looking for ideas with wheel weights. I see that some use stick on weights, some use BBs. What are the advantages and disadvantages of each? Why do people use airsoft BBs vs copper/lead BBs (seems to me the copper BB would be better because they are heavier and you would not have to add as many to a wheel).
I have a RTR AX10 that i have already cut the foams on. I made my own mount to place a 6cell NiMh over the front servo. I have also added bent rear lower control arms and moved the shocks inboard and put super soft springs around except for right rear which stayed stock spring rate. My goal is to achieve as close to 90degrees articulation as possible excpet that I always have a wheel lifting off. I believe that wheel weights will solve the issue. Thanks in advance for the reply!
p.s. the axial rocks!!!!
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Old 04-10-2008, 12:45 PM   #2
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Sounds like you have torque steer issues, not wheel weight issues. You need to correct that by adjusting spring rate/preloading the spring using spacers. Weighting one wheel on one side more than the other is just going to cause you headaches.

I've always used the stick on weights. BBs are a pain in the ass in my opinion. First, you have to weight/measure them out somehow to ensure you've got the right amount in each tire, then you have to be careful not to spill them everywhere when you remove a tire, and finally, you can't run foams with them in. The biggest advantage is that they stay low in the tire, effectively lowering your cog. Not enough that I would ever consider running them.
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Old 04-10-2008, 01:09 PM   #3
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I went to the fishermans warehouse and picked up strip lead for making your own fishing weights.

coils around inner rim very nicely

I added 3/4lb to each of the front and 1/2lb rear on my 2.2

1lb front 3/4lb rear for my super on XLs

I have found that to be the easiest and cheapest way, stick on weights arent cheap
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:39 PM   #4
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I'm a roofer, specializing in concrete roof tile repairs. We have lead by the roll, we use it for making custom flashings around weird shaped skylights, chimneys, basically anything that sticks up through a roof. We replace many of these and constantly throw the old ones out. I just cut strips off an old one and wrapped them around the inside of my rim. If you know any roofers, they probably throw the old ones out often and can give you some for free. If not, check roofing supply companies, They can probably help you out for free if you're nice about it.

As for the torque steer issue, I had the same problem on my super. A guy suggested something that helped a lot, didn't get rid of it but it made a big difference. Try moving the back of the right rear upper link lower to the axle. In my rig it was just a matter of putting the back of the link under the mounting bracket instead of on top. I suppose moving the front of the left front upper link lower would help as well, haven't tried that yet though. Actually, I'm going to try that next time I'm out crawling and see if it makes a difference. Just experiment with link positions (if possible) and see what helps. Good luck.

Last edited by AdverseCity; 04-10-2008 at 10:46 PM.
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Old 04-10-2008, 10:49 PM   #5
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look around the site a bit... 90 degrees is to much

when u get past 70 or so the trucks have a tendancy to follow the axle and tip over

alot of the courses are on slants or "side hilling" witch already has your truck at a 1-50 degree angle relitive to level

so yes articulation is really nice...but there is to much

i like to use the stick on weights personally as they are cheep and are easy to read how much you are putting on

on the axial rims 1 wrap around is 3.5 ounces

ad a second wrap and u get 7.5 ounces as the circumfrence is larger from the first wrap
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Old 04-11-2008, 12:32 AM   #6
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awesome, thanks alot for the suggestions, i was playing with the truck again tonite and was experimenting with the preload on the rear left spring and it helped alot. I also see what is meant by too much articluation, as of right now the truck follows the front axle and flips in very tricky situations. thanks for replies!
I cant wait for the thirty days to be up so i can post some picks!
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:01 PM   #7
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You don't have to wait to post pics. Use a pic hosting site, like tinypic.com or photobucket.
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Old 04-12-2008, 04:03 AM   #8
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hey you should use fishing weights they come in like a rope in 1/4 inch go to big 5 or walmart it about 3-6$ works pretty good but when i get my claws i was gonna give bbs a try
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Old 04-12-2008, 09:41 AM   #9
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I have 5oz in the front's of my Axial rims and 6.5 in the front of my Proline rims and I really like it. I like the stick on weights for ease as well. 1/4oz peices, 20 of them, yeah, 5 oz.
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:11 AM   #10
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Wheel weights http://www.onlinetiresupply.com/site/763839/page/259742 good prices
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:51 AM   #11
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Use stick on weights, BB's shift around in the tire causing weight shift (not good on steep incline or side hilling). Your tire lifts of the ground because of torque twist this is reduced by adjusting your suspension. For another preference I run 12 oz in each front and 8 oz in each rear
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:20 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeepernick View Post
I went to the fishermans warehouse and picked up strip lead for making your own fishing weights.

coils around inner rim very nicely

I added 3/4lb to each of the front and 1/2lb rear on my 2.2

1lb front 3/4lb rear for my super on XLs

I have found that to be the easiest and cheapest way, stick on weights arent cheap
I weighed out my copper bb's and then placed them on a piece of paper, spread them out the length of the tire diameter, got a piece of packaging tape and ran it across the top. Flipped the paper over and ran another piece of tape over other side, compressed edges. Wrapped the entire thing around the wheel, instant wheel weights with no spilling.
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:28 PM   #13
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Default newest beadlocks on the market

have you seen the newest beadlocks? they have adjustable weights!
check the link http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Aluminum-2-2-N...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:33 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmacjetti View Post
have you seen the newest beadlocks? they have adjustable weights!
check the link http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Aluminum-2-2-N...QQcmdZViewItem
any links to a website for these.................bob

....
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Old 04-28-2008, 08:45 PM   #15
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this is the sight but it hasnt been updated with the new wheels . if you end up ordering a set tell them miguel sent you http://billetdesigns.com/joomla/index.php
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:55 AM   #16
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I got mine for 50 cents a strip at my local Les Schwab tire store. 1/4 ounce segments, 3 oz per strip
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Old 04-29-2008, 02:07 PM   #17
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We have recenty came out with our new set of rims that can be weighted and adjusted.

click the link in my sig for more information or this link in the vendors section.

http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showthread.php?t=116237
some pics on tanis's truck.
http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...=1#post1161826
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:17 AM   #18
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Although I've never tried it, I always wondered how well solder wire would work as wheel weight.

You simply wrap the solder around the inside rim - how much weight you want depends on how many winds you put on - infintely adjustable.

Just a thought.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:19 PM   #19
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I think solder would work but your price per ounce would be kinda high.
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Old 04-30-2008, 12:31 PM   #20
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Something else nobody has mentiones is the lead weight strips for floating goose/duck decoys. They are a bit longer than the stick ons so you can do a continuous wrap and then some type of retainer - like a zip tie or tape or???? One other thing is they wrap a lot better because they are softer than stick ons.

They can be purchased from about any place that sells decoys, IE Wal-mart when hunting season is getting close.......

Local shops like Sportsmans Warehouse, Gander Mountain and sometimes Dicks will have them.


I have used airsoft pellets and #8 leas shot and think they both suck. Specially on side hills, you can watch as the pellets all roll to one side and usually cause a roll over if the angle gets too high. I'm changing to stick ons and the decoy weights.
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