Knuckle Weights vs. Wheel Weights

[Del Monte]

Originally Posted by krawlfreak

maybe so, but have you tried the original setup with a wider track width?





not really...

i think your losi needs more because it is narrow.

it doesnt matter if your axles are heavy or light, the axle pretty much rotates from the center like a teeter totter. the more weight on the outside the more stable it will be. adding weight to the center will do nothing for balance.


again i am not bashing your setup in any way. i think the idea of knuckle weights is good, i have just not witnessed a cut and dry case where they were indeed the factor for making a line or not.

Don't forget that that we're still lugging along 7oz of motor and 2-3oz of transmission. That's at least an extra 10oz of sprung weight that we have to try to counteract with weights.

Combine that with the fact that the Losi isn't the most efficient thing on the rocks, and moving all the weight to the knuckle becomes pretty big.

[rcboxer]

Just curious what peoples opinions are now on the wheel weights vs. knuckle weights. knuckle weights have been out for some time now and curious if anyone has noticed anything more between the two options.

[jcboof]

Originally Posted by rcboxer

Just curious what peoples opinions are now on the wheel weights vs. knuckle weights. knuckle weights have been out for some time now and curious if anyone has noticed anything more between the two options.

Don't like em anymore. Ran em for a few months then got rid of them. The truck just doesn't feel as planted IMO. I got used to running with weight IN my wheels and without the weight, the truck felt almost twitchy. Just a different feel really and I wasn't sold on it. At first I really didn't notice any difference at all. After a bit of driving and doing different lines, it was apparent to me that I just didn't like it.
Some people swear by them, and the theory to support what they are supposed to do is great, but some things aren't always the same on the rocks as it is on paper.

The rotational inertia that is present in weighted wheels helps on climbs where you have to give it a bump at the bottom to get started and on breakovers where you have to give it a bump to get over. Not having that on my truck where I climb, hurt it IMO.

So now I'm back to cheap weight inside the wheels instead of the 100 bucks worth of brass attached to my knuckles. I'll spend the money I save on something else now!

[helhedded]

I think the key is finding a happy medium. A little in your wheels, and a little on the knuckle. That works well for me. I don't have to add any to my wheels, though. My aluminum Evo's are just right.

[skid]

Originally Posted by jcboof

The rotational inertia that is present in weighted wheels helps on climbs where you have to give it a bump at the bottom to get started and on breakovers where you have to give it a bump to get over. Not having that on my truck where I climb, hurt it IMO.

In theory, you'll loose forward speed and forward inertia because the wheels won't accellerate as fast as unweighted wheels. Only advantage in reference to bump climbs and breakovers I see is if you're rocking on your skid with tires in the air. With unweighted wheels, if you need continued rotational momentum, don't let off the throttle. Which ever fits you driving style really.

[jcboof]

Originally Posted by skid

In theory, you'll loose forward speed and forward inertia because the wheels won't accellerate as fast as unweighted wheels.

My back to back testing supported my theory on this. I ran the same lines, same truck With and without weights, The knuckleweights would not allow me to bump up a rock as easy as the weight in the tires setup.

I spent several hours testing certain conditions that would test the limits of either setup. There are benefits to both setups, but none that made it worth while either way. I stuck to weights in the wheels simply because its cheaper and I can predict what the truck will do in certain situations much easier. Just my opinion. I never felt like I gained much with the knuckle weights, but I didn't lose much either. Its kindof a wash in my experience. But i just perfer weights in the wheels.

[soutthpaw]

You get a 3 to 1 advantage on rotational weight in that it acts as 3 times the static weight when spinning

[Harvo]

I really saw improvements with knuckle weights. They did feel twichy to begin with, but after getting accustomed to them, you can exchange the word "Nimble" for "Twichy".

Not a HUGE difference... but a difference.

On the Berg... I am really liking the below the knuckle weight.

[rcboxer]

Wouldn't you guys say with weighted wheels it helps
With getting you off your lid compared to running knuckle weights.?

[bob1961]

look how much better EgreSSor's tuber did when he took the knuckle weights out ..........bob

....

[EGRESSor]

Originally Posted by bob1961

look how much better EgreSSor's tuber did when he took the knuckle weights out ..........bob

....

thats without any weight , no knuckle and no wheel weights
but if i feel the need of adding weight i would go with the knuckle weights

any wheelweight adds weight around the axle center line - above and below
my knuckle weights add the weight where i need it - only below axle center line


a tuber there is a short clip how ti flips back over
front wheel is 180gramm complete , rear is 160gramm

[bigstu]

I did something similar to jcboof, I purchased a set of knucle weights and did some testing.
Only variant I did was the combo or some wheel weights and the knuckle weights.

The knuckle weights do work, with out question, but I felt like the rig just wasn't as stable.

With the knuckle weights on the truck, the only way I could get it to roll over was to put VERY soft springs in the shocks and have the axle weight be enough to collapse the springs and put the tires on the ground.
This was a problem because the springs were so light, it wasn't a good set up. Didn't work for me at all..

I think if you are a new driver and learned to drive with them, you will be Ok. For someone like me that learned to drive with the wheel weights, I will stick with them.

This is just my opinion so take it with a grain of salt,

I see more guys with knuckle weights taking roll overs, than I do the guys that have wheel weights.
And the reason I see that is because I think to myself, why is he taking a roll over there, he is just on his roof. Then I realize they have knuckle weights and smile. Cause I will not have to take those points when I end upside down there too... LOL..

[Jslick]

I have been running a combo of both in my XR10 DLUX knuckle weights and about an oz. and 1/2 in each front wheel. For me it is enough to be stable and to get the rollover instead of taking the points. I have started to run the knuckle weights in the MRC and I am still doing some tweaking to see what setup will work the best for my MRC.

[RickM]

Its funny. I seam to have no trouble getting back off the lid without weights in the wheels. One point, to be a devils advocate on this, is that the most damage done to my rig was while it was on it's lid. I think you get a lot of weight spinning, and you are bound to tear up stuff. I also went back to a narrow wheel and a sedona/rover combo with the sidewalls shaved. My truck is cleaning stuff I have had super hard times with before. Just a slightly different perspective.

[Charlie-III]

The only "advantages" to weighted wheels is possibly getting off your lid or "rocking a ledge". The reason is, the stopping/starting of a large rotating mass will impart torque to the chassis. This torque is what gets the rig rocking.
The more weight & speed used, the more torque applied to rock.

I'm in the process of making lead knuckle weights for my 2.2 Bully, I really hate the idea of all that rotational mass slamming my axles/CVD's/gears/motor/etc. everytime I reverse drive direction at full power.
I'm using lead since it is about the densest material you can easily get. It is also easy to work with (I do plaster molds and cast my shapes).

As to "some loss of low speed control", I can see that since the wheels are easier to move with low power. They will "coast" less due to lighter weight.

I agree that it may be less of an issue for a new crawler than for someone with many hours using weighted wheels.

Back to back testing is the only real way to know though. Then it's personal preference.