Nord-Lock washers - Anyone try them on axle nuts?

[durok]

Nord-Lock washers (aka "Wedge Lock Washers") - Anyone try them on axle nuts?



Firstly - let me get this out of the way - they are NOT cheap...

Roughly $25 for 10 at the first place I checked (yowza!).

*Edit - those are the highest-grade stainless (254 SMO Stainless Steel) - there are 3 types of steel, also have slightly lower-grade SS and then carbon steel, which is the bargain of the trio - $19 for 20, links at the bottom of the post...

The reason I have for considering such insanely-priced bits of hardware?

I have ended up with a disturbing number of wheel & tire sets for my crawler(s).

I'm really wanting to swap them back and forth a LOT - and we all know how long nylock nuts last when treated like that.... not very.

So, I was asking a friend of mine that installed a turbo kit and quite a few other mods on a Miata - and he said "Have ya heard of Nord-Locks?"

So, I looked them up - and wow - these are TRULY the mother of all lock washers!

Quote:

"These washers have cams or wedges on one side, with a lead angle greater than a thread angle, and radial teeth or ribs on the other side. The washers are installed cam face to cam face. When tightening the fastener to preload, the teeth penetrate and seat against the joint material and the nut and/or fastener head. When subjected to vibration the interacting cams create a wedge action which prevents the fastener from vibrating loose."

I'm thinking (after perusing their catalog) that the best size & type to pick for standard Axial (etc.) axles is listed below (Dimensions should be identical for all 3 types of steel available, only the part number changes):

Nord-Lock 254 SMO washers (M4 - small outer diameter)

Part# NL4ss-254

Type: Stainless Steel Washer

Inside Diameter: 4,4mm or 0,17”

Outside Diameter: 7,6mm or 3/10”

Thickness: 2,2mm or 0,09”

Metric: M4

UNC: #8



So, before I order a set of 10 for $25 - or, more likely, the cheaper carbon-steel ones at 20 for $19 (free shipping with Prime) - any experiences or thoughts on these?


Ah, before I forget - link for purchase:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...re-bullets-btf

Or for the slightly cheaper (softer) plain stainless steel (not the "Ultimate" 254 SMO Stainless Steel), McMaster-Carr has them (as "Wedge Lock Washers") for $8.96 for 5 - so, $18 for 10 - gotta check shipping costs, though:

https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-washers/=1cnupnm

And, cheapest - carbon steel, zinc-coated - just under $19 for twice as many (20 "paired" washers):

https://www.amazon.com/locking-washe...=wedge+locking

[Brake Weight]

I used them on my exhaust manifold and turbo for my VW. So far so good there. But I scored them from my work, so freebie.

As for axle washers, they may do the trick. They are significantly thicker, though. So a few wheels may not have enough thread for a full nut depending on hub type.

You can get 100 of these for $10.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F122599345751

[durok]

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

I used them on my exhaust manifold and turbo for my VW. So far so good there. But I scored them from my work, so freebie.

As for axle washers, they may do the trick. They are significantly thicker, though. So a few wheels may not have enough thread for a full nut depending on hub type.

You can get 100 of these for $10.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F122599345751

I was thinking I could use a thin M4 nut with no nylon insert with these washers, hopefully... I should just go ahead and test them out!

[bryco13]

Interestingly enough, I just learned about these myself. I happen to enjoy a guy on the YouTube who goes by the name AVE. He recently messed around with some to see what lock washers hold up better and basically shows you the “torque” required to break them free once tightened. I think the end result with those particular washers was that the threaded material (your axle) basically needs to stretch enough for the angled teeth to disengage. On bigger stuff that you may just check that it’s tight is one thing, but I have the feeling using them on a 4 or 5mm threaded shaft may fatigue them quicker. Think at that price you’re better off ordering a larger box of stainless nylock nuts and tossing them when they’ve outlived their usefulness.
Just my 2 cents.

[Brake Weight]

The majority of stress would be against the axle pin and not necessarily the axle itself.

[OSRC]

I put a dab of blue threadlock on the axles...holds the wheels on whether the nylon is in good shape or not.

Serrated nylon locknuts also work great. I have a heck of a time breaking them loose sometimes. Kind of the same principle. I use Traxxas mostly.

[bryco13]

Didn’t even think of that. So yeah, just have some back up pins available!

[JatoTheRipper]

I'd agree that serrated Nyloc nuts are all you need. Blue thread locker is a good added measure.

The problem, for me, with these washers or any washers is that I usually forget I have them underneath the wheel nut so when I pull of the wheel said washers go running. In the house it's not a big deal. Out on the trail they are usually gone forever. Therefore I've stopped using washers under the wheel nuts unless I absolutely must.

[goobs]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

The problem, for me, with these washers or any washers is that I usually forget I have them underneath the wheel nut so when I pull of the wheel said washers go running. In the house it's not a big deal. Out on the trail they are usually gone forever. Therefore I've stopped using washers under the wheel nuts unless I absolutely must.

funny how that work lol. i always find the nut, but not the washer

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by goobs

funny how that work lol. i always find the nut, but not the washer

Yeah same here. Maybe nuts gravitate towards each other, eh?

[BigSki]

Maybe a good old split washer would be good enough? Dirt cheap as well. I've got to the point of where I just got a big bag of M4 serrated flanged nylon lock nuts and treat them as a consumable item.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by BigSki

Maybe a good old split washer would be good enough? Dirt cheap as well. I've got to the point of where I just got a big bag of M4 serrated flanged nylon lock nuts and treat them as a consumable item.

That's what most people don't know or forget. Nyloc nuts are technically for one use only. Each time you use them they become less effective.

Although there are some people, and even standards, that disagree with this. I believe the MIL-SPEC says they can be reused 5 times.

If you can turn the nut with your fingers the Nylon insert is definitely shot.

[ferp420]

+ for the traxxass lock nuts i buy them by the bag also but i also use another standered lock nut if theres enuff thread and double nut them and red locktight they still come loose but usaly because or a sheered hex pin or failed bearing something like that

[JohnRobHolmes]

My nylocs back off after the first time I swap out wheels. Nordlock washers are amazing. I use them on my ebike axles where a loose nut will result in catastrophic motor/ esc/ or rider damage.

[Natedog]

Originally Posted by BigSki

Maybe a good old split washer would be good enough? Dirt cheap as well. I've got to the point of where I just got a big bag of M4 serrated flanged nylon lock nuts and treat them as a consumable item.

Maybe, but I just buy good quality flanged (non-serrated) nylocks in bulk. When the nylon gets worn, a drop of blue loctite takes care of that. Serrated is not good, I don't want them chewing up my wheels or hubs (depending on what type/brand of wheels).