Would like your input
 

After JIA posting this on the rings I made for the RC4WD wheels,many of you have shown an interest.Some of you would like them for the 12 bolt wheels and others want them for the older 8 bolt wheels.Well, thanks to Shaun (yota) for loaning me his 8 bolt wheels,I've come to the conclusion that either is very doable.I have been trying to figure out a way to keep this cost effective to the buyer.Here is what I've come up with.
If I don't counterbore the bolt holes,they will fit either wheel using every other hole for the 12 bolts or every 3rd hole for the 8 bolt.here is example pics,

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/2...09smalltz0.jpg

http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/8972/hpim1431qr7.jpg

My next thought was,if I have them waterjet to size it reduces the amount of maching and operations to make them.Here is an example of some Axial rings that were waterjet.

http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/6247/hpim1426ui5.jpg

Let me know your opinions on what i have said.I'm just trying to keep the cost down to the buyer.Also,if anyone has suggestions for other designs,feel free to post them.
Pat

I like the idea of having rings that will fit both 8 and 12 bolt patterns. That would let you change wheels in the future and not have to buy new rings. :lol:

So your trying to figure out how to make rings for both wheels right...so one design fits 2 different wheels?

I think it would be fine...but I like the 3 dimensional look of the rings in your first pic. Will the rings still have the center machined down thinner and the edge chamfered?

IMO, if people want it as low profile as possible (which is really the only reason to continue counterboring the holes)...then they can use button heads to assemble them.

Yes,the main design wouldn't change outside of the counterbored holes.Center would still be machined,bevel would still be there and,the back would still be counterbored.I'll try to get a set of what I'm trying to say done tomorrow and post up a pic.
Pat

So, they will look exactly like the one's in your first pic, but no counterbores. 8)

I say go for it...I think it's a non-issue. If it's going to make them more cost effective for you and in turn for us...then I say "thumbsup"

I like having the rings that would work on both set of rims. I also don't think the bolt holes need to be counter sunk. Looks good keep up the good work"thumbsup"

What about the waterjet edge?

i agree with everyone else on making these versatile between the 8 hole and the 12 hole wheels.

My opinion on making the beads would try to make them a little thinner and to counter sink the holes. I personally dont like the screws hanging out even though i could just go buy some button head screws but the one thing that i dont like are the the huge rings hanging out like on the ericson beadlocks ( I am not talking crap about the ericson's because i have had a few sets and they are great but just dont like that huge ring hanging out, I have gotten it caught a few times crawling but it wasnt a big deal, just my two cents)

I also would like to see the better finish of the CNC but it doesnt matter as long as i can get some beads to hold my dang tires to the wheels

It just leaves it more "grainy" looking on the edge right? I can't see the difference other than a CNC'd or milled edge would be shinier due to the smoothness.

Another suggestion I have would be to make the rings available in just true pairs, meaning two wide or two narrow...instead of one inside and one outside. This would let people use just narrow rings all around (so you could put them on the outside instead of the wide's. In the least, make them available to buy individually along with having full sets.

I dig it not counter sunk. Keeps cost down and gives anyone the option to...

A. Countersink the needed holes ourselfs if desired(its not that hard)

OR

B. Run button heads.

Or

C. You can make it a added on option to counter sink them.

As far as the water Jet edge to most it wouldnt matter. Again a bit of elbow grease and that can be removed if desired.

I'd buy a set of rings with the pentagram inside for my rc4wd wheels. They look cool as heck"thumbsup"

this is great, i wish i could afford some rc4wd bead locks!

i like that option too

Brings up another good idea/point. If they are not counterbored, then anyone could easily use a counterSINK on the outer surface and then use flat head screws so that the screw head was completely flush with the ring "thumbsup"

Nice to see that someone knows the difference.:lol:

i would like a set of rings(4) exactly like the ones on suicide sally 2.2 whats the damage?i just realized that it was you who made these, i shouldvee asked you before you sent the other package, BTW is the back of the ring going to be recessed for better clamping?

As it stands,these rings are thinner than the stock RC4WD rings.They are also the same diameter as stock.I could do the cnc finish but,then it requires more operations and would end up costing the customer more.As I stated in my first post,I'm trying my best to make these cost effective for the consumer.
Pat

Yes,they will be recessed just like JIA's rings.That was part of the reason behind this design.To be able to hold certain tires,you would need all 8 rings.If you've already modified your wheels to make them work then just PM me and I could do some without the recess in the back.
Pat

P.S. you just realized that?Who else makes custom rings on here?:lol:

I find no issues with the water jetting. They look just fine to me. I love the current look of them. I think by making them fit for both types of wheel with the same ring is nice.

If they are cut with the waterjet you don't plan to recess the front on the CNC?

I think using the waterjet to cut these would be fine. I also think its a good idea not to counterbore the bolt holes. Having the option to mount on 12 hole or 8 hole is great as well. I have both!

I just want to make sure that these would look exactly like what you have in picture #1 without the counterbored holes. Right?;-)

Thanks
Tom

just wondering why so many people are opposed to the counterbore??? why not let the screw sit in as far as you can????