02-14-2008, 06:22 PM | #1 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 265
| Stripped threads Anyone have any tricks for fixing stripped threads in aluminum? |
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02-14-2008, 08:42 PM | #2 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Kennewick, Washington
Posts: 1,382
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Helicoil? Drill and tap to the next size? JB weld drill and tap to same size and pray? Buy new part. |
02-14-2008, 09:22 PM | #3 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 265
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It's an alloy beadlock rim. I thought about JB weld.
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02-14-2008, 10:20 PM | #4 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: oklahoma city
Posts: 74
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You can drill and tap a new hole right next to the stripped hole if the JB weld does not work.
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02-14-2008, 10:29 PM | #5 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montucky
Posts: 254
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Just retap the stripped hole the next size up. No need to go and drill new holes. I like 6/32 screws because they are a coarse thread and they dont strip to easily from over tightening.
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02-14-2008, 10:48 PM | #6 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 265
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It's a 3mm beadlock ring hole. What would be the next size up? I know 4mm but would SAE be closer?
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02-14-2008, 11:37 PM | #7 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montucky
Posts: 254
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If it were me I would go to 6/32. It is barely bigger and it has the coarse thread. I switched all the mounting hardware on my junfacs to 6/32 and they thread faster as well. I know they are plastic but thats my .02 for ya.
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02-14-2008, 11:44 PM | #8 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Pennsyltucky
Posts: 265
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I think I have some 6/32. Have to get a tap though.
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02-15-2008, 05:17 AM | #9 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: oklahoma city
Posts: 74
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cut a notch verticle on the tip of the screw with a dremel, bam...a tap for free. Make the screw look self-tapping.
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02-15-2008, 08:29 AM | #10 |
RCC Addict Join Date: May 2005 Location: I live Here
Posts: 1,218
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02-15-2008, 09:40 AM | #11 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2007 Location: Montucky
Posts: 254
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I dont know I f I would trust a cheaply made screw to tap a alum beadlock. I would opt for a $6 tap. Why risk screwing the hole(lol) up worse over $6 bucks? And also a tap has a cutting tip to rid the hole of existing threads when you go up a size that is so close.
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02-17-2008, 12:26 AM | #12 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: in the woods
Posts: 1,915
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I have used this method before with good results. 1. Completely disassemble the wheel. 2. Get a stainless steel pipe brush and clean the threaded hole and surounding area. 3. Get some AL brazing rid and braze the stripped hole closed. 4. Re-drill and re-tap. I have done this to AL chassis', gear boxes, wheels, motor plates, etc with great results. Just keep in mind that you have repaired the hole so take a little extra care the first time you thread a screw into the wheel. If you feel an overly high amount of resistance, check to make sure the threads are clean. Unless you want more practice at brazing that is. Geed luck. |
02-17-2008, 09:11 AM | #13 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: Pee Gee
Posts: 56
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When I worked at a Ford dealer I used to grind slots in small bolts and use them as self tappers all the time. It worked great on aluminum intake manifolds and brass inserts that got buggered up. I wouldn't do it on a bolt that is heavily stressed or that will be taken in and out very frequently, but for a beadlock that should be fine-- as long as you are not changing tires every other day.
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