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07-02-2005, 09:19 PM
| #1 |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
|  bending aluminum what's the best way to go about bending aluminum? I know its probably gonna weaken it, but when I need to bend some semi-thin aluminum, what's the best way to go about it?? Thanx, Wes |
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07-02-2005, 09:37 PM
| #2 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: SW, Connecticut
Posts: 685
| Either put it in a vice and push on it, or use a sheet metal brake if it is thin enough. Don't use a brake if the metal is semi thick (like over .050") or else it will fracture when you try to bend it. |
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07-02-2005, 10:29 PM
| #3 |
| 06 Super National Champ   Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Tennessee
Posts: 10,268
| I use a vice and rubber mallet. |
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07-02-2005, 11:49 PM
| #4 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ  Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
| Quote:
You can bend some pretty tight angles in it, if you take your time. If you try to bend it all in one shot that's usually when it cracks. Alot depends on the grade of aluminum too. | |
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07-03-2005, 02:09 AM
| #5 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
| Quote:
that's really strange, I posted in general. hmmmm computers, what can I say..... | |
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07-03-2005, 08:51 AM
| #6 |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO
Posts: 905
| 6061 doesn't bend very well, it stress cracks like crazy. 5052 bends like a dream. If your bending a sharp 90*, take the time to get 5052. The 6061 might bend, but it'll fall apart eventually. Don't ask how I know! |
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07-03-2005, 01:45 PM
| #7 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
| Quote:
Is 5052 strong enough for bends and then later on maybe some curb impacts? LOL!! I considered gettin something softer but I don't want it to be fragile either. Thanx, Wes | |
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07-26-2005, 12:56 PM
| #8 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,144
| With 6061, could you mill into it a low spot along the line you want to bend and be successful, or will it still crack? Maybe applying a small amount of heat to that area you wish to bend (I know aluminum can deform pretty easily, I was thinking of using a saudering iron along the line I want to bend, and then bending some, heating, bending, heating, bending). This'd be with 1/8" 6061, since I have about 4 feet of the stuff. |
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07-26-2005, 09:00 PM
| #9 | |
| Newbie Join Date: Dec 2004
Posts: 19
| Quote:
I was thinkin about that, but I was scared it might make it brittle. I don't know for sure, maybe some1 w/ some experience/knowledge will chime in. BTW, you wouldn't wanna get rid of some of that aluminum would you? lol, I need some for a chassis and my LHS SUX! | |
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07-26-2005, 09:54 PM
| #10 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Centennial, CO
Posts: 2,144
| Well, technically, its at my old highschool, and I need to speak to the shop teacher about getting it back (I donated it for other kids' projects, but no one has since touched it). He doesn't get back to the school until august 16th. I bought my aluminum from a metal scrap yard. It was a junkyard with every type of block, pallet, circular blocks, extrusion, etc... I think I got ripped though. I bought my 2x5ftx 1/8" for $43. I've heard people buying it much cheaper. |
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07-27-2005, 04:09 AM
| #11 |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
| I'm not sure if scribing your bend line, with an endmill, in the stock will help or not. I know heating it gently with a torch on LOW will anneal it, making it more flexible. I've only tried it once, but blacken the aluminum with a torch sweeping back and forth across your projected bend line a few passes at a time. It should become more mallable (sp) the more you do it. I've never really tried this with an R/C application......................but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.  |
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07-27-2005, 10:11 AM
| #12 |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Elkton/Newark
Posts: 461
| I plead ignorance here... (and in many other things as well...) 2 Questions: -What about using a tubing bender (ie; the coiled spring type that does not allow the tube to flatten at the radius)? I've been looking, but the smallest I can presently get my hands on is 3/8". -I put my hands onto 1/4" and 3/16" stainless tubing. I'd like to make high clearance links out of it, figuring that it will bend much easier. My problem is that when I try to tap it... well, it doesn't tap easily. Aluminum I can pretty much grab in the soft jaws of a vice and tap like butter. Stainless is so hard to tap, I either spin it in the jaws or nearly break my tap (which I'd like to avoid  ) Any suggestions? |
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07-27-2005, 01:16 PM
| #13 | |
| 2006 2.2 National Champ Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Driving my R/C rototiller
Posts: 7,941
| Quote:
Do you have some sort of cutting oil for the tap, try to find some dark high-sulfer cutting oil for pipe threading. Moly Dee is a good one, crap stinks a little but it works great.  | |
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07-27-2005, 02:31 PM
| #14 |
| Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada.
Posts: 62
| i use a bar of soap just rub the treads cheap too |
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07-28-2005, 11:34 PM
| #15 |
| Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Utah
Posts: 156
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07-31-2005, 08:18 PM
| #16 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: pleasant ridge
Posts: 299
| Quote:
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