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10-14-2008, 05:55 PM | #1 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 54
| How-To: AX10 Custom Length Links
After doing a couple mods to my new AX10, I found myself in a position where I needed a link length that was not available from Axial. So after doing some research on this site, and the internet, I decided to try my hand at making my own. Note: The tap and drill bit is for using the Axial 3mm rod ends. Use the proper sizes for your other applications. Materials 1/4" solid rod from Home Depot (about $3.50 for 36") 3MM - .50MM tap from OSH or any hardware store($3.00) #40 drill bit from OSH (on the package of that particular tap, it states 'use a #39 bit'. Tried it, broke the tap, had to go back to get another. Bought two, actually. :-P ($2.00) Total : $8.50 Tools Drill Press Metal-cutting saw Vise Grips Here is everything you'll need for materials. Measure twice. Cut once. Using some steel wool, I polished up the rod while it was still all in one piece. Just for giggles really. I used my chop saw to cut the rod. You could use a handsaw if you were desperate. :-P A trick I did here was only measure one rod. I cut the first one at 3.125". Then I used that one as a 'stencil' to cut the rest. Use the first one every time you measure and cut the next rod. Here are my rough-cut links. Now get a 4x4 piece of wood and drill a 17/64" hole in it. Make it only deep enough so the rod will stick out of the wood enough to grab it with some vise grips. Clamp the wood to your drill press. I have a HF cheap-o clamp. It worked. Use a 1/16" bit to make a small pilot hole. Here is where I feel I made a mistake. Do not round the edges of the link until after you make your pilot holes. The rounded part will throw off your ability to visually find the center of the rod if its not perfectly rounded. Which it won't be. Place some tape on your #40 bit to mark where you want to stop drilling. I just measured off the stock Axial links. Here is what mine looked like after drilling. Another Tip! While you're tapping the rod, place your vise grips as close to the edge you're tapping as possible. If you grip from the center, or the opposite end, you'll get a lot of twisting from the rod and tap which will lead to a break. Thread the stock rod ends into the link. And the finished product! A custom Section525™ 79mm link! Things I would have done different: Obviously I need to be a little more gentle with the vise grips. Perhaps some masking tape on the ends prior to tapping would have helped. You could probably get away with drilling a 1/4" hole into the 4x4 piece of wood. I had a tiny bit of slop in mine. Go SLOW. Take your time lining up the pilot holes. Get them as centered as you can. If the pilots aren't centered, it will just get worse as you drill with the #40. Last edited by section525; 10-14-2008 at 05:57 PM. |
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10-14-2008, 06:43 PM | #2 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: H.B.
Posts: 432
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Sweet write-up, thanks!
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10-14-2008, 09:57 PM | #3 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Lincoln
Posts: 86
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I like the idea of using a pre-drilled hole in the wood to keep the rod and 90. Also, for those that do not know, use some cutting oil to tap the threads, or light oil if that is all you have. And if you only screw the tap in a turn or two, back off a little, than go a little farther it helps keep the shavings out and makes it a little easier on your hands and the tap. Last edited by tk5028; 10-14-2008 at 10:00 PM. |
10-14-2008, 10:16 PM | #4 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 54
| Quote:
I have some cutting oil, as you can see in the pic, but I didn't use it. I'll give it a try tomorrow when I make some more. | |
10-16-2008, 07:45 PM | #5 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 54
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After day number two of link making, I've learned a couple more tricks. tk5028 was right. Cutting oil, cutting oil, cutting oil. I've always used it for drilling 1/2" + holes.. but I didn't really thing it would be that huge of a difference cutting a .098" hole. It works a TON better. Thanks tk5028! Also, the same goes with the tapping. Just put a single drop into the hole before you tap it. It kind of makes a mess.. but it's smooth as butter for the tap. Now some pics: I found that wrapping the vise grips with masking tape will help a lot with keeping the link scratch free. I tried wrapping the link with the tape, but the cutting oil turned it into soggy kleenex. :-( Before placing your 4x4" on the drill press to make your pilot hole, place it on the floor, grab a center punch, find the center as best you can, and give it a little tap. It will make drilling your pilot hole 10x easier. Once I get some flanged balls, the rear will be complete. Notice the left side (today's link) is not beveled, while the right side (yesterday's side) is. You decided which one looks better for you. I'm leaning towards the left side. |
10-20-2008, 09:10 PM | #6 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 106
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WOW...great write up! Thanks for all the info and the pictures!! You make it seem so easy! I think I am going to try this!! |
10-21-2008, 01:18 AM | #7 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Chico, CA
Posts: 54
| Quote:
I guess I'll update this a little bit. I decided not to be as impatient and I used my band saw to make the cuts. As you can see in the picture below it comes out about 100x cleaner (which is expected). It only took about 30 seconds per cut on my trusty ol' Harbor Freight 4x6 saw. :-P Also, while picking up more steel rod, I grabbed a couple sticks of 1/4" aluminum rod as well. After cutting 16 links.. I ended up with 0 working ones. The aluminum was just too soft to tap. I could not for the life of me drill out the center without totally scuffing/damaging the finish. Once I tried to tap it, it would just strip out. I may try a higher grade of aluminum rod, from a metal supplier perhaps. Not the cheap junk from Home Depot. So don't waste your time or $2.99 on it! Pic of the band saw cut: | |
11-02-2008, 05:06 PM | #8 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Bartlett/ Memphis
Posts: 111
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this is a good thread. thanks for the tips and info. Great ideas. i do like saving money....
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11-03-2008, 01:53 AM | #9 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 126
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thanks for this write up. i've been putting it to good use. |
11-03-2008, 01:59 AM | #10 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2008 Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 126
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i bought one of these:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42307 it's kinda slow, but i spray wd40 on the blade while it cuts and that seems to help.it cuts nice and straight. i couldn't cut a straight line with my scroll saw. |
11-06-2008, 03:24 PM | #11 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Southwestern, Ohio
Posts: 2,671
| Quote:
Hope this helps! | |
11-06-2008, 05:15 PM | #12 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: alex city
Posts: 200
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cool thank will try this
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11-06-2008, 07:06 PM | #13 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: cape crud... will you be my friend
Posts: 2,102
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great write up thanks. i used 3/16 hollow rod aluminum, and tapped it to 6/32. traxxxas rod ends found their own set of threads as a made them fit. works nice, just not as beefy as these. these are solid. |
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