Just went and picked up some greased lighting and man this stuff works great even tho on the bottle its says not to use on aluminun bare or anodized. But its not ecthing the metal hit it with some 1000 grit sandpaper and alil elbow grease and some polishing compound. Looks like a whole new truck with out the axial green |
Good Stuff. Great tip!! I used the Greased Lightning today(under $4 at Home Depot) and it worked great. One of the 4 rings I soaked took an extra 10 min but a rub with a paper towel was all they needed after about 30 min. I was also pointed to a product by Dupli-Color called Metal Cast that is a spray on that gives a nice anodized look if you are looking to change colors. |
I used polished aluminum wheel cleaner one time on something anodized and It works too...... real well;-) |
Thanks for the tip"thumbsup" I will use this to clean my green links to |
Guys all you need to buy is some caustic soda powder. Put a table spoon of it in some warm water and dip the parts you want to strip for a few seconds. Remember to wear gloves. You can easily polish the parts with Tcut if required. If you leave the parts in for too long the aluminum will turn black. |
Funny thing, I thought greased lightning was oven cleaner ( I'd include oven trays in that.. )? :|:ror: We've only got lame foam oven cleaner in the UK, very hard to get hold of decently strong chemicals that will do the job... |
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I think I'd prefer using something that took 30 minutes over something that only took a few seconds. First of all, how caustic is something that it can remove anodizing in just a few seconds? Second, with the longer process your margin of error is a bit greater. I've read a lot of stories of how people have left their parts in oven cleaner for just a bit too long and it ruins the part. |
Or if you guys are like me and like the brushed look go in your tool rooms and chuck up a wire wheel and have some fun lil time consuming but it gets the job done! ;-) |
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Appreciate the heads up on the greased lightning. The oven cleaner about kills me every-time i have used it. Tis is much nicer..thank you "thumbsup" Reb |
Use 100% lye (drain-o, etc.), it will remove the ano without destroying the substrate material. Just keep a close eye on the process and everything will work nicely. I usually hang the part I want to de-ano on a plastic cable tie and dip the part into the mixed solution. When the part is done I would neutralize it with a baking soda wash/soak. Light hand polishing is all needed to be done. Needs to be 100% lye (crystal form). Oven cleaner has other chemicals that will cause pitting. |
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Thanks for the tips and tricks, I've never heard of any of this till now. Sounds like it all works pretty good. |
Acetone works too. Also works great for removing powder coating. I completely stripped a powder coated and annoed paintball marker in less then an hour using the stuff. |
Great caution does need to be practiced when using 100% lye. Here's a good example on how to. "thumbsup" http://bmxmuseum.com/forums/viewtopic.php?id=110989 |
greased lightning(or purple power) also removes chrome off tamiya plastic parts. leaving smooth shiny plastic unaffected |
i dont know about greased lightning, but i got a wicked chemical burn from the old castrol super clean stuff. but then again, i had my hands in it for quite awhile stripping a rattle-canned black rc10 with a vegetable brush. so like, whatever you use, be carefull... ;-) |
my buddy just did this to his XR10 rings. It works great"thumbsup" The other successful product we used was Rogo. It's a diluted sulfuric acid formula for drains that is available at your local plumbing supply. Unless you are 100% comfortable with working with acid, stay away from the rogo |
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