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Old 12-18-2010, 07:00 PM   #1
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Default Styrene question

Needs some help on styrene I have never worked with it but I have a few questions. 1) What type of glue do you use. 2) Does it have good structual integrity like extending wheel base on a hard body, making fender flares. 3) If it is a good material to do what I mentioned in number 2 question what would be the best glue to use if I made fender flares so if I roll my rig the flares won't break off. Your input would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:04 PM   #2
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I have used it a few times, made a crew cab f350, Glue you can use CA but i would recommend using Plastruct plastic weld, next depends on your thickness you buy, .040 is decent thickness always brace in the rear of panels to help.

all comes down to how creative you are. It takes practice for sure.

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Needs some help on styrene I have never worked with it but I have a few questions. 1) What type of glue do you use. 2) Does it have good structual integrity like extending wheel base on a hard body, making fender flares. 3) If it is a good material to do what I mentioned in number 2 question what would be the best glue to use if I made fender flares so if I roll my rig the flares won't break off. Your input would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:30 PM   #3
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For glue i use M.E.K. you proly have a quart of it somewere, its the paint remover stuff, it welds the plastic together and when it comes in quartsized containers, why would you buy anything else. Hope this helps
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:54 PM   #4
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tenerx, only takes seconds to bond. I have a S10 body that needed fender flares repaired...worked really well, heat gun to shape the styrene...and get a eye dropper from your LHS. They are used to mix paint..works really well on for the glue.

Last edited by squatch71; 12-18-2010 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:21 AM   #5
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Yeah for everything I use I use Tenax7, They dont make it anymore.... But you can get it on ebay. very easy to use and bonds strong.
http://cgi.ebay.com/TENAX-7R-Space-A...0#ht_574wt_905

Styrene can be used to make just about anything. If you think it out and use the right thickness it works very well for whatever purpose you want it to. as far as making fender flares. I have not done it at all. I imagine you can put it on a hard shell body and it should bond as many people have done in the past. as far as integrity of not breaking off the body. everything breaks off with enough force.

RPPHobby has these types of fender flares. I would say much more worth the money then making your own. yeas the others that are RC4WD are expensive but made well and look nice. In the long run they should last much longer as the way they are made and how they are mounted.
http://www.rpphobby.com/SearchResults.asp?Search=flares
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Old 12-19-2010, 09:39 AM   #6
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yeah, tenax...thats the stuff.....stupid spelling.....
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Old 12-19-2010, 03:25 PM   #7
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Thanks for the info I actually plan on making some tube fenders out some brake line, I was more curious about lengthening the wheel base for the body. I read on a build thread one guy talked about using some other glues instead of ca glue becasue ca has a similar consistency to super glue the guy talked about some glue that would give it didnt dry as hard and would give yall know any kind of glue like that?
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Old 12-19-2010, 04:12 PM   #8
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E-6000 is very strong when dry and is more flexible.$2.99 at Wal-Mart. Shoe Goo is strong and flexible, but not as strong as E-6000.
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Thanks for the info I actually plan on making some tube fenders out some brake line, I was more curious about lengthening the wheel base for the body. I read on a build thread one guy talked about using some other glues instead of ca glue becasue ca has a similar consistency to super glue the guy talked about some glue that would give it didnt dry as hard and would give yall know any kind of glue like that?
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Old 12-19-2010, 05:51 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by team3six View Post
E-6000 is very strong when dry and is more flexible.$2.99 at Wal-Mart. Shoe Goo is strong and flexible, but not as strong as E-6000.
Cool deal I'll probably got that route then. What about when it comes down to a good body filler once you've made the bond what would ya'll suggest?
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:18 PM   #10
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another glue that can be used s methylene chloride. It is what we choose to use for fabing styrene.... we buy it by the 5 gal drum but it can be gotten in qt and pint. bondo is a very good filler for styene I swear by it for ost uses but may crack, if the surface is roughed up by some say 120 grit sandpaper. Be care of mek it is VERY FLAMABLE...........methylene chorise is not. The vapors are less harmfull than mek also but good ventilation should be used it you have open containers.... Hope this helps... Oh if ur ordering staock sheets from somewhere order several thickenesses each will have their own place say .040 .060 .080 amd .100 would be great choices....Good luck
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:31 PM   #11
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another glue that can be used s methylene chloride. It is what we choose to use for fabing styrene.... we buy it by the 5 gal drum but it can be gotten in qt and pint. bondo is a very good filler for styene I swear by it for ost uses but may crack, if the surface is roughed up by some say 120 grit sandpaper. Be care of mek it is VERY FLAMABLE...........methylene chorise is not. The vapors are less harmfull than mek also but good ventilation should be used it you have open containers.... Hope this helps... Oh if ur ordering staock sheets from somewhere order several thickenesses each will have their own place say .040 .060 .080 amd .100 would be great choices....Good luck
Very informative thanks alot man
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:48 PM   #12
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OK, I have to clarify some things.
You don't want to use the E-6000 if your just looking to attach something to a hard body that your planning on using filler and such with a body.

If your wanting to extend your body by making the flares wider, then just use the styrene and design your flares and then use the tenax7 to attach the flares to the hard body. if its a lexan body then youll make your flares and attach them with the E-6000, but you wont be able to use filler on it, it will just crumble off.

Basically when I am working on a hard body project. I mock an item with poster board, It will take several designs and cuts until you end up with a design you like.

Then you would use a certain thickness of styrene to your shell. Thinner is easier to work with but is easily beat when landed on or hit. Thicker doesn't bend as well, but will take abuse better. The thing is styrene is easy to fix or repair if you want to do that.

then you brush a nice fluid amount (not soak it, just enough to work the area you are attending to. you dont want to destroy other area's that you dont want to melt.) Apply to the object you want to bond to soften the plastic. It may take several coats but eventually the plastic will start to become gooey. I would suggest only doing this to a small part of the area you want to work on to form a tack to hold your project piece and work from there.

One that is bonded (it will only take less than a minute) slowly bend your styrene to the next point you want to tack it and this time dab the tenax7 and the styrene to together. this may take several more coats and a little more time. and then continue the same steps until your item is where it should be placed.

Now form a bead of tenax7 along the edge of your project area until there is a good bond between the 2 objects.

Once everything is dry use Squadron putty in the areas you want to fill and allow to dry. this is a hobby grade bondo.
http://cgi.ebay.com/Squadron-9055-Gr...#ht_1794wt_905
Sand with fine grit paper and you may have to re apply several times to hide perfections. then move on to the next job.

I would suggest that you purchase a good amount of evergreen styrene and practice until you understand how it works. Maybe even get a crap toy hard shell from somewhere to learn how to bond them together.
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Old 12-20-2010, 03:57 PM   #13
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Wow thanks team3six very nice info!!!
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Old 12-21-2010, 05:56 PM   #14
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I've found a good flexible glue is Automobile trim adhesive. It is VERY sticky and will have a bit of flex to it. It takes about 24 hours or longer to cure, unless you have a steady supply of sunlight or a UV lamp, but the pieces will stick together in just a few minutes of application.

Got mine at AutoZone. I think its a 3M product.
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Old 12-21-2010, 07:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nandrewjackson View Post
I've found a good flexible glue is Automobile trim adhesive. It is VERY sticky and will have a bit of flex to it. It takes about 24 hours or longer to cure, unless you have a steady supply of sunlight or a UV lamp, but the pieces will stick together in just a few minutes of application.

Got mine at AutoZone. I think its a 3M product.
Gotcha sounds like another good altenative
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Old 01-10-2011, 12:34 PM   #16
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Im glad i found this .I just got some styreen to play with and build an interier.
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:42 AM   #17
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Will Epoxy work?
Contact cement is flexable, permanent, and waterproof if you have a steady enough hand to keep from making a mess. I use it on pool que tips, so it deffinately takes impact well!
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:32 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Will Epoxy work?
Contact cement is flexable, permanent, and waterproof if you have a steady enough hand to keep from making a mess. I use it on pool que tips, so it deffinately takes impact well!
I have never had real good luck with epoxy. I havent tried alot of differant types though. With my experiance it after it cures its to brittle. I use shoogoo. Seems to bond strong and still alow for some flex.
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Old 02-04-2011, 10:36 AM   #19
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Micro Mark sells a product called "Same Stuff" which is the .... well... the same stuff as Tenax-7R if anyone is having trouble finding it. micromark.com
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Old 02-04-2011, 11:11 AM   #20
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How do u guys bend it do u just score the back the bend it like that. Or can you just bend it with out it snapping. Like if I were to make a round inner fender like a half circle could I make that from 1 piece

Last edited by adamargue; 02-04-2011 at 11:13 AM.
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