brazing ??????????????s

[pstroke666]

new to brazing. im buildin a scale truggy custom chassis an tube work . ive done it 1:1 but i gotta hang of brazing an im goin thru oxygen like crazy , oh... i have the home depot map-gas oxy torch kit,and flux coated rod ,so any pointers, ive used 2 bottles of oxygen to 1/8th map gas

[SMR 510RR]

Do a search in "tools and procedures" for brazing. You will find tons of results.

You really should switch to a silver solder product, the most popular around here is Harris safety silv 45 or 56. It melts at a lower temperature than the traditional brazing rods you are working with and is very easy to work with. It is much more expensive but it will last you a long time and is completely worth the money. When you pick that up grab some of their white flux.

1. Fit the joint just like the 1:1's
2. Position the joint somehow, you will have to be creative here...It can be tricky.
3. Put a small amount of the flux on the joint, you dont need too much just a skim coat. Try to remember that it will run once you heat it, I like to postion my joints horizontal if possible because the silver solder will run wherever the flux is.
4. Apply heat. Watch the flux at this point, it will bubble a little and then shortly after it will turn clear and become liquid.
5. Apply the silver solder to the joint, keep the heat on it until the solder has flowed out.
6. Let it cool for about 30 seconds and then you can spray some water on it or dunk it.

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by pstroke666

new to brazing. im buildin a scale truggy custom chassis an tube work . ive done it 1:1 but i gotta hang of brazing an im goin thru oxygen like crazy , oh... i have the home depot map-gas oxy torch kit,and flux coated rod ,so any pointers, ive used 2 bottles of oxygen to 1/8th map gas

You will use ALOT of oxygen with that kit. Deal with it for now, and if you decide it's something you like to do....drop some coin on a refillable oxy tank, or buy a nice oxy/acetylene set up.

[pstroke666]

thanks guys for the info. i have access to a oxy/accetyline torch. would that be good to use my brazing rod with. and where can i get safety silv... local hardware or online

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by pstroke666

thanks guys for the info. i have access to a oxy/accetyline torch. would that be good to use my brazing rod with. and where can i get safety silv... local hardware or online

Oxy acetylene will heat things up way faster than Mapp and oxy, should work well with the brazing rod. Silver solder is way better than brazing rod, much cleaner welds and stronger too.

Safety Silv is available at a local welding supply store. It will be around $25 for a 1 oz roll, but it will go a long ways.

[CrawlinClodKiller]

Oxy/acetylene is to hot. But if you have access to it use the oxy bottle with the mapp gas to make it hotter, or like was said just use safty silv like everyone else. You can also get away with using oxy/propane.

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by CrawlinClodKiller

Oxy/acetylene is to hot.

For what? I've been using it to silver solder for 5 years....never heard of something being to hot to braze with. You just need to know how to adjust the flame.

[CrawlinClodKiller]

Well too hot wasn't really what I meant. It is hotter so easier to screw up if you don't have experience is what I meant. It will work though sure. It is kind of a waste for tube chassis though isn't it?

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by CrawlinClodKiller

Well too hot wasn't really what I meant. It is hotter so easier to screw up if you don't have experience is what I meant. It will work though sure. It is kind of a waste for tube chassis though isn't it?

I suppose you could burn things up faster with oxy/acet, but I find the faster you can heat up the joint, the less it effects the surrounding metal/plastic/etc. I can braze a joint with a rod end 2" away and not melt it, I keep a wet rag and a squirt bottle of water handy. Don't think I could do that with Mapp gas..........

And what's kind of a waste for a tube chassis?

[demonoid369]

alright looking over this thread and on another thread about brazing, someone said that saftey silv is used for only brass... but aren't most of you using that stuff for brake line? and thats steel?

if you want to explain, you can but if you don't feel like it just say yes or no lol

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by demonoid369

alright looking over this thread and on another thread about brazing, someone said that saftey silv is used for only brass... but aren't most of you using that stuff for brake line? and thats steel?

if you want to explain, you can but if you don't feel like it just say yes or no lol

I've used it on brass, copper, mild steel, and stainless.

[demonoid369]

so 3/16 steel brake line is fine with the saftey silv.... oh good lol, so many different threads on bazing and not one has all the facts so looking at one to another you start getting a little confused.....
so it's plenty strong then?

how do you do your set up? just wondering since you are like awesome at it

[War Pig]

It's amazingly strong. In fact, I've never broken a joint in tubing. I have broken off a tab, but it doesn't happen very often.

I just use a standard size torch set up with a 00 brazing tip, nothing special. Just takes alot of practice....plus I've been fabricating metal of some sort for 25 years.

[jfergz]

actually i went from safty silv to brazing rod and like it better but I'm used to working with it also so that may make a difference but war pig maybe you could answer something for me when I was using the safty silv most of my joints were pretty week i'm thinking it was because i wasn't getting the joint hot enough...anyway as far as the oxy use i agree with war pig oxy/act would probably be best but i'm also using oxy/mapp waht i did as far as usage was to get a refillable oxy tank as was suggested

[CrawlinClodKiller]

Just ignore me, listen to war pig he knows what he is talking about.lol Most of what I am saying has been from my experience.

[freetimecrawler]

Originally Posted by jfergz

actually i went from safty silv to brazing rod and like it better but I'm used to working with it also so that may make a difference but war pig maybe you could answer something for me when I was using the safty silv most of my joints were pretty week i'm thinking it was because i wasn't getting the joint hot enough...anyway as far as the oxy use i agree with war pig oxy/act would probably be best but i'm also using oxy/mapp waht i did as far as usage was to get a refillable oxy tank as was suggested

You're doing something wrong, when I braze a joint with safty silv, I can bend the tube before the joint will give, like Warpig, I've never had a joint break.

[SMR 510RR]

Originally Posted by jfergz

actually i went from safty silv to brazing rod and like it better but I'm used to working with it also so that may make a difference but war pig maybe you could answer something for me when I was using the safty silv most of my joints were pretty week i'm thinking it was because i wasn't getting the joint hot enough...anyway as far as the oxy use i agree with war pig oxy/act would probably be best but i'm also using oxy/mapp waht i did as far as usage was to get a refillable oxy tank as was suggested

Originally Posted by freetimecrawler

You're doing something wrong, when I braze a joint with safty silv, I can bend the tube before the joint will give, like Warpig, I've never had a joint break.

Yea no doubt, I was surprised with how strong the joints were. jfergz what kind of flux were you using? Was the tube clean without any coatings etc?

From the pictures I have seen on here a lot of people are using way too much silver solder, I try to use as little as possible. The easiest way to use less silver solder is to use less flux. Usually I line the joint up horizontal and then add flux on the top half of the joint, just a skim coat. Then when I heat it it flows down around the joint and turns clear and its time to add the silver solder, just a small dab then check the backside to make sure it went all the way around. If it didnt and there is extra on top you can just reheat the joint and it should flow out and fill the gap. If not, add a little more flux, flip it and fill in the gap. This stuff is expensive, why use more than you need!!!

[War Pig]

Originally Posted by jfergz

actually i went from safty silv to brazing rod and like it better but I'm used to working with it also so that may make a difference but war pig maybe you could answer something for me when I was using the safty silv most of my joints were pretty week i'm thinking it was because i wasn't getting the joint hot enough

You have to make sure the joint is tight. Silver solder doesn't like to fill in gaps. I would guess that was your issue. You also have to make sure you don't heat the joint too much. If it turns orange...it's too hot. You wait until the metal starts to turn blue and the flux liquifies and then feed the solder into the joint. It will melt and and get sucked into the joint. If you get it too hot, it will burn up the flux and the solder won't stick very well.

[bob1961]

i did a sample 90 degree joint with the bird/fish mouth and tore the tube apart with the joint not even cracked anywhere took me bout 20 minutes with two sets of vise grips too ........bob

....

[jfergz]

Thanks for the tips guys all noted I've got 2 oz. of safety silv so i'm not going to give up on it just got excited to get my first build done and went with what I knew how to use planning a full tuber next so i'll give the solder another shot and btw I'm using the white flux and i think you're right warpig i fish mothed the joints but intentionally left a small gap so i think that is what I may have been doing wrong