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Old 07-01-2011, 08:48 AM   #1
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Default Thread, drill and clearance Chart

For us that don't work in the metal machining world, this chart is of great help. At least it was to me.

http://www.physics.harvard.edu/servi...HREADCHART.pdf
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Old 07-01-2011, 02:10 PM   #2
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Thanks for the link, this is a good to use as well.
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Old 07-01-2011, 08:50 PM   #3
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What, no metric system?


Last edited by Duuuuuuuude; 07-01-2011 at 08:53 PM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 01:12 AM   #4
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good info, thanks. might help in the day to day as well.
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:40 AM   #5
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What, no metric system?

Nice, but doesn't cover the small stuff we use..... try this.... http://www.engineersedge.com/manufac...rill-chart.htm
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:24 AM   #6
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What, no metric system?

Metric tap drills size is easy, just subtract the pitch from the nominal size. Done.
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Old 07-02-2011, 09:55 AM   #7
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Metric tap drills size is easy, just subtract the pitch from the nominal size. Done.
Good point, I frikkin forgot that......

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Old 07-02-2011, 11:35 AM   #8
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I found that an 1/8" clearance hole for a 3mm is too big...
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Old 07-02-2011, 11:43 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manning View Post
Metric tap drills size is easy, just subtract the pitch from the nominal size. Done.
Yet another reason to love the metric system.
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Old 07-02-2011, 01:12 PM   #10
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Yet another reason to love the metric system.
Darn straight. Much easier to deal with. Stupid 'merican inch pound system......
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Old 07-02-2011, 05:03 PM   #11
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when i was an apprentice many years ago the best reference for threads and other machining know how was the Zeus book of tables. plastic coated flip book. i still have my 1976 edition somewhere

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...m=310187580240

someone has converted them to PDF format here

http://www.green-oval.com/data/zeus.pdf

Last edited by M1tch; 07-02-2011 at 06:29 PM.
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Old 07-02-2011, 06:18 PM   #12
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here's the chart i use

http://www.physics.ncsu.edu/pearl/Tap_Drill_Chart.html
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Old 07-02-2011, 07:17 PM   #13
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i like that...... a lot
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Old 07-03-2011, 02:34 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by neillarson View Post
For us that don't work in the metal machining world, this chart is of great help. At least it was to me.

http://www.physics.harvard.edu/servi...HREADCHART.pdf
I looked at the chart and the clearance drill sizes might be loose on some of those smaller screws. A 4-40 screw will rattle about inside a 1/8" hole for sure.
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by losikid View Post
This is the best one that I have found. It lists different tap drill based upon material, none of the other tables posted have that information. Very important when you are trying to tap an 0-80 hole .500" deep in Stainless Steel!
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Old 07-03-2011, 05:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SMR 510RR View Post
This is the best one that I have found. It lists different tap drill based upon material, none of the other tables posted have that information. Very important when you are trying to tap an 0-80 hole .500" deep in Stainless Steel!

Very true. Allot of times at work, material, tolerances, and application plays a part in what size hole I drill for a threaded hole. What style of tap also plays a big part in what drill I use.
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Old 07-04-2011, 01:34 PM   #17
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0-80 .500 deep in SS is easy. Don't bother even trying lol.
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Old 07-04-2011, 03:32 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Reflection View Post
What style of tap also plays a big part in what drill I use.
You are likely referring to rolled threads vs. cut threads. Rolled is better, but not found often.
Then again, you could be referring to straight flute vs. spiral flutes......

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Old 07-04-2011, 03:47 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
You are likely referring to rolled threads vs. cut threads. Rolled is better, but not found often.
Then again, you could be referring to straight flute vs. spiral flutes......

We typically use rolled threads (form taps) when taping a smaller size like 3mm or #6 and smaller...in aluminum. Can't do that in steel, stainless or anything hard. In hard material, a hole a few thousandths bigger will be allot easier on your taps. Using spiral flute cut taps help in hard material since they pull the chips out of the hole instead of pushing them down into the hole. From my limited experience, the chips coming off the tap in the hole is what breaks allot of taps.
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:51 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflection View Post
We typically use rolled threads (form taps) when taping a smaller size like 3mm or #6 and smaller...in aluminum. Can't do that in steel, stainless or anything hard. In hard material, a hole a few thousandths bigger will be allot easier on your taps. Using spiral flute cut taps help in hard material since they pull the chips out of the hole instead of pushing them down into the hole. From my limited experience, the chips coming off the tap in the hole is what breaks allot of taps.
Yep, I used to do thousands of #10 rolled threads in aluminum in a machine shop. Much better thread than cut.
As to chips breaking taps, having them go to the bottom of a blind hole can bind the tap & break it.
Not backing the tap off to break chips can be as bad (in 3/4-1 turn, back 1/2 turn.....).
Bending taps also breaks them off.

Funny story....one place I worked, we ordered TiN taps for a job, our purchasing dept bought HSS taps & had them sent out for Tin coating. They couldn't figure out why we were pissed when they came in.
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