RCCrawler Forums

Butcherinhd · 07-31-2011, 08:30 PM

I just used plasti dip for the first time today and i think that i done it right but idk. I was using it on an esc and i didnt remove the heatsink . I diped it once let it set about 25 min out side on the porch it was like 95 today. I went and diped it again this time letting it set around 35 min again outside. Everything was looking good , it was starting to pull its shape back and i noticed a lil bit on the side where i must have nicked it so i diped it again. Now thats 3 times i just went out and got it sat down and started forming it with my fingers. Now my question is i noticed while i was doing this that it either had air traped inside or it was still wet underneath . While i finished workin it in it kinda busted and ozed outa lil . Is this bad or normal? How long should it take to finish curing at room temp with 3 coats? Any info would be great .

Gula · 07-31-2011, 10:16 PM

I'm not sure how thick each coat went on but I'd wait till the whole thing is very hard

RusT808 · 07-31-2011, 11:29 PM

I think dipping with the heat sink on, you just rendered it useless. The aluminum is now insulated and can't dissipate heat. As far as curing, I would let it dry a few hours before the next coat. I hope it all works out well for you.

j-bird · 08-01-2011, 01:47 AM

yeah i agree each coat should set for at least 3 to 4 hrs to be fully cured..and just like said above now you need to get it off the heatsink or you wont have to worry about the waterproof cause you'll burn it up..take a razor or exacto knife and clean the heat sink off ..but i'll tell ya the plasti-dip isnt 100% waterproof..its dont bond to the esc completely in all spots guys have found out the hard way

Jeykito · 08-01-2011, 07:05 AM

Having the heatsink still on there would be very hard. You won't know if it was totally dried up or not. A friend of mine did that and not seeing it there were some tiny holes that water seeped in. Also it takes about 3-4 hours for each coat to dry. Take the heat sink out and when you dip the esc in be sure that you are doing the dipping at a slow pace to allow the plastidip to seep in to every nook and cranny. Good luck

CrawlerG · 08-01-2011, 10:47 AM

When I did this I just bought "Liquid Tape" its the same thing as the plasti dip but it has a brush in the cap and you can control how and where you put it on as well as the thickness. Or you could just get a paint brush (a small one, like a hobby brush) and use the stuff you have and make sure that its sealed. See if you can peel off the other stuff you just did and take the esc apart and just coat the circuit board and around where the wires go into it at. Then put it back together. Good Luck

Butcherinhd · 08-01-2011, 02:05 PM

Thanks guys . i left the heatsink on because there would be no way to put it back on after its cured . i got up this morning b4 work and checked it out . I do beleave that i am gonna take it off and start over . i diped it to fast and didnt give long enuff time between coats. Thanks again . O iam gonna coat it and after it cures i still plan to put atleast one baloon over it. If it frys its time for a br-xl um humm

ROWDY RACING · 08-01-2011, 02:32 PM

When I did my Sidewinder I taped off the heatsink and used the Plasti dip that comes in a spray can. It worked great, and I was able to put the esc back in the case afterwards.

Butcherinhd · 08-01-2011, 03:32 PM

I just used the dip and diped the case into less the heatsink this time. It wasnt that hard to get off at all . Got the first coat back on and lettin it set up real good this time . I did it much slower as well. thanks for all the helpful info guys. I think that i will look into the spray and the brush on as well for future projects.

Tommy R · 08-02-2011, 08:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CrawlerG

When I did this I just bought "Liquid Tape" its the same thing as the plasti dip but it has a brush in the cap and you can control how and where you put it on as well as the thickness. Or you could just get a paint brush (a small one, like a hobby brush) and use the stuff you have and make sure that its sealed. See if you can peel off the other stuff you just did and take the esc apart and just coat the circuit board and around where the wires go into it at. Then put it back together. Good Luck

I used liquid tape, as well. I opened up my Mamba Max Pro, "painted" the board and everything else besides the heatsink. With multiple thin coats I was able to get it back into it's case so it doesn't look waterproof....but it is.

jessejoe23 · 08-07-2011, 10:12 PM

I lik

e the idea of putting liquid tape on the circuit board. That way it seals everything up.you really get some looks when you crawl out of the water and people see no waterproofing on the esc...... lol

Fletch24 · 08-08-2011, 05:24 AM

Make sure the heat sink is not cover and after you get a good coat on let it set for about 30 min it will be pliable not tacky and you can press it and force all the air bubbles out and mold it real well. Then 3-4 hrs of cure time and its complete...Just did this to my servos.

panama · 09-20-2011, 10:19 PM

i did a servo still working gr8 and all in the water. a turnigy hv767. and ive done all my rx and . i've also sprayed around where dirt could get in around my diffs ( as on the stampede 4x4 the diffs are not sealed completely and so ii did some preventative lock and spray i call it.

ebomb · 09-22-2011, 09:23 PM

How are u guys doing the servo? Are u coating the outside or are u taking them apart and using the liquid elec tape on the boards

Unfadingpyro · 09-22-2011, 09:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ebomb

How are u guys doing the servo? Are u coating the outside or are u taking them apart and using the liquid elec tape on the boards

i used liquid tape and just coated the outside.

07-31-2011, 08:30 PM	#1
Butcherinhd Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ringgold GA USA Posts: 141	Plasti Dip Help. I just used plasti dip for the first time today and i think that i done it right but idk. I was using it on an esc and i didnt remove the heatsink . I diped it once let it set about 25 min out side on the porch it was like 95 today. I went and diped it again this time letting it set around 35 min again outside. Everything was looking good , it was starting to pull its shape back and i noticed a lil bit on the side where i must have nicked it so i diped it again. Now thats 3 times i just went out and got it sat down and started forming it with my fingers. Now my question is i noticed while i was doing this that it either had air traped inside or it was still wet underneath . While i finished workin it in it kinda busted and ozed outa lil . Is this bad or normal? How long should it take to finish curing at room temp with 3 coats? Any info would be great .

08-07-2011, 10:12 PM	#11
jessejoe23 Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Bethpage,TN Posts: 94	I like the idea of putting liquid tape on the circuit board. That way it seals everything up.you really get some looks when you crawl out of the water and people see no waterproofing on the esc...... lol

09-20-2011, 10:19 PM	#13
panama Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: panama city Posts: 296	plastispray rocks i did a servo still working gr8 and all in the water. a turnigy hv767. and ive done all my rx and . i've also sprayed around where dirt could get in around my diffs ( as on the stampede 4x4 the diffs are not sealed completely and so ii did some preventative lock and spray i call it.

07-31-2011, 10:16 PM	#2
Gula I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Here Posts: 2,320	I'm not sure how thick each coat went on but I'd wait till the whole thing is very hard

07-31-2011, 11:29 PM	#3
RusT808 Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Honolulu Posts: 428	I think dipping with the heat sink on, you just rendered it useless. The aluminum is now insulated and can't dissipate heat. As far as curing, I would let it dry a few hours before the next coat. I hope it all works out well for you.

08-01-2011, 01:47 AM	#4
j-bird RCC Addict Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: middle,tn Posts: 1,326	yeah i agree each coat should set for at least 3 to 4 hrs to be fully cured..and just like said above now you need to get it off the heatsink or you wont have to worry about the waterproof cause you'll burn it up..take a razor or exacto knife and clean the heat sink off ..but i'll tell ya the plasti-dip isnt 100% waterproof..its dont bond to the esc completely in all spots guys have found out the hard way

08-01-2011, 07:05 AM	#5
Jeykito Quarry Creeper Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: China Posts: 352	Having the heatsink still on there would be very hard. You won't know if it was totally dried up or not. A friend of mine did that and not seeing it there were some tiny holes that water seeped in. Also it takes about 3-4 hours for each coat to dry. Take the heat sink out and when you dip the esc in be sure that you are doing the dipping at a slow pace to allow the plastidip to seep in to every nook and cranny. Good luck

08-01-2011, 10:47 AM	#6
CrawlerG Rock Stacker Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Bellingham, WA Posts: 66	When I did this I just bought "Liquid Tape" its the same thing as the plasti dip but it has a brush in the cap and you can control how and where you put it on as well as the thickness. Or you could just get a paint brush (a small one, like a hobby brush) and use the stuff you have and make sure that its sealed. See if you can peel off the other stuff you just did and take the esc apart and just coat the circuit board and around where the wires go into it at. Then put it back together. Good Luck

08-01-2011, 02:05 PM	#7
Butcherinhd Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ringgold GA USA Posts: 141	Thanks guys . i left the heatsink on because there would be no way to put it back on after its cured . i got up this morning b4 work and checked it out . I do beleave that i am gonna take it off and start over . i diped it to fast and didnt give long enuff time between coats. Thanks again . O iam gonna coat it and after it cures i still plan to put atleast one baloon over it. If it frys its time for a br-xl um humm

08-01-2011, 02:32 PM	#8
ROWDY RACING I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: . Posts: 7,967	When I did my Sidewinder I taped off the heatsink and used the Plasti dip that comes in a spray can. It worked great, and I was able to put the esc back in the case afterwards.

08-01-2011, 03:32 PM	#9
Butcherinhd Pebble Pounder Join Date: May 2010 Location: Ringgold GA USA Posts: 141	I just used the dip and diped the case into less the heatsink this time. It wasnt that hard to get off at all . Got the first coat back on and lettin it set up real good this time . I did it much slower as well. thanks for all the helpful info guys. I think that i will look into the spray and the brush on as well for future projects.

08-08-2011, 05:24 AM	#12
Fletch24 Rock Stacker Join Date: May 2010 Location: Tacoma Posts: 80	Make sure the heat sink is not cover and after you get a good coat on let it set for about 30 min it will be pliable not tacky and you can press it and force all the air bubbles out and mold it real well. Then 3-4 hrs of cure time and its complete...Just did this to my servos.

09-22-2011, 09:23 PM	#14
ebomb Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: meriden Posts: 341	How are u guys doing the servo? Are u coating the outside or are u taking them apart and using the liquid elec tape on the boards

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