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08-16-2011, 06:16 PM
| #1 |
| Got Worms? Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Golden, CO
Posts: 6,116
|  What am i doing wrong
So, this is a styrene question. All i get search result wise is stuff about gluing and making bodies. I want link skids and esc mounting trays. I bought some .01 and some .015 styrene awhile back, originally to make side panels of a tuber. It wasn't real hard, just cut the shape, screwed them on, gave it some heat around the bends and i was good to go. But now i'm wanting to make a skid for my links that will wrap around them not requiring any fastners to hold them on. I've tried a lower temp heat gun and a high temp heat gun, and i can't ever get it soft enough to form, without it warping on me. My next plan is to try and heat the whole piece and quickly try to form it, but i'm down to my last chunk so i'm wondering if there's any techniques to form it? Or any good reads thats not in the tools/procedure section |
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08-16-2011, 08:03 PM
| #2 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: May 2008 Location: Baltimore
Posts: 4,442
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Styrene comes in tube shapes, it might be easier for you to work with a pre-made shape. Once the styrene gets hot enough to form you literally only have a few seconds before it resets and hardens.
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08-16-2011, 08:19 PM
| #3 | |
| Rock Stacker  Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Chesterfield, VA
Posts: 50
|  Quote:
Love the Phish line in your Sig!  | |
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08-16-2011, 09:16 PM
| #4 |
| MODERATOR   Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: RC Land
Posts: 3,185
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Thick gloves and boiling water
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08-25-2011, 01:11 PM
| #5 |
| I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
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Some industrial heat guns have a smaller nozzle that slips on the outlet end, this limits the heat carryover to other areas. Cotton work glves help as well, they insulate a little but don't tend to stick to the plastic or leave fingerprints. I have also had luck, using Lexan, with clamping it up between 2x4's (keeps heat away from where I want the sheet flat) and heating the part that sticks out. Grab it with cotton gloves and work it to the shape desired. You can always reheat it as needed. I usually put most of the heat on the inside of the bend, this limits thinning of material when bending but "may" lead to a little "bunching" on the inside radius. |
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08-25-2011, 08:33 PM
| #6 | |
| Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Lake City, Fl
Posts: 380
| Quote:
you could either cut a slot down them lengthwise so that you could slip them over the links without having to take them apart and they should stay in place, or just leave them intact and take the links apart and slide them over and reassemble | |
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08-26-2011, 06:58 AM
| #7 | |
| Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Baton Rouge
Posts: 965
| Quote:
I totally agree with you to the max on that one! | |
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