Does anybody knows where can I get this machine???

[Matias del Rio]

I have been reading a Wheely King post and found this Machine:




Does anybody knows what´s the name of this machine or where can I buy one of these????? It sems to be that´s some sort of manual CNC cutter!!!! If it is so, this is the next step in perfect cutting...

[Szczerba]

Originally Posted by Matias del Rio

I have been reading a Wheely King post and found this Machine:


Does anybody knows what´s the name of this machine or where can I buy one of these????? It sems to be that´s some sort of manual CNC cutter!!!! If it is so, this is the next step in perfect cutting...

pretty cool. I just googled "MF 70"

http://proxxon.com/eng/html/27110.php

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37110-.../dp/B0017PTAHG

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nvq4f9AHOTA

[bob1961]

dang only 400 bucks just what i need to not use hack saws and files anymore ..........bob

....

[Desert Rc]

No kidding anyone have experience with this unit??

[ClassicGMJunkie]

mind you, $400 is just the framework and electrical unit. its a few more C notes for the machining bench ,parts and tools...

[bob1961]

Originally Posted by ClassicGMJunkie

mind you, $400 is just the framework and electrical unit. its a few more C notes for the machining bench ,parts and tools...

so what is pictured here....

http://www.amazon.com/Proxxon-37110-.../dp/B0017PTAHG

is not ready to make parts ..........bob

....

[ClassicGMJunkie]

the table, vice, small parts and cutters are seperate, it shows a whole machine but you just get the basis of it. the tower, base, motor assembly. its not THAT cheap as a whole. If you dont buy it all, you are limited. its a gateway tool

[Reflection]

Originally Posted by ClassicGMJunkie

the table, vice, small parts and cutters are seperate, it shows a whole machine but you just get the basis of it. the tower, base, motor assembly. its not THAT cheap as a whole. If you dont buy it all, you are limited. its a gateway tool

That's pretty much it. Buying most any machine, you'll have as much or more in tooling if you buy a decent selection and quality tools at that.

Read the description..... All hand wheels are zero adjustable with one revolution equals 3/64-Inch (1.0mm) 1 division equals .002-Inch (0.05mm). ....... Better start workin out cause you'll be crankin handles for hours.

Not real sure if I'd be to keen on this.... Both vertical column and compound table are of treated, high quality aluminum. Although it may do a good job, seems the aluminum would wear out quickly.

Little bit more and you can get a little bench top mill that has a few more options, will hold bigger tooling and seems to be built a little better so it'll last longer. I've never used one of these, but going off the specs sheet, I'd rather buy this personally.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini...-Machine/G8689

A friend of mine has a big Grizzly mill and a Grizzly lathe in his shop at home. Both seem to be good machines for the work he does with them.

I did a search and brought up a few options you can read up on for smaller inexpensive bench top mills. http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/...s/versions.htm

[Crawling Calvin]

Some of the parts on my Sherline {X/Y sliding assemblies} are aluminum and so far under {some} CNC use they are holding up. That said it isn't the same as steel but that's another story with any moving parts oil makes a huge difference regardless of the machine's materials

To me it looks like a "nice" machine but Reflection is right on 2 things:
Tooling is EXPENSIVE! If you think tooling is bad for that look at a few R8 {Tormach, Bridgeport and some Seig mills} tool holding setups or Cat 40 {Fadal, Haas...} and then look back at that tooling costs are relative but don't skimp on it whatever machine you get or you will be kicking your self later.

As for cranking the hand wheels, my Sherline has 20TPI screws so 1 turn = .05" travel and when doing it by hand it takes a lot longer than you think to move and when you have multiple hand cranks to make without some kind of read out system the possibility for error just went WAY up

Back on topic, whats the X-Y-Z travel on there. I have {about} 7" of Y and 8" X on my Sherline and trust me it goes FAST when you get a nice fixture or a few parts in there, don't run out of room early in the game, it sucks

[MystRacing]

I have to second what Crawling Calvin said that is a really small machine. With a max table travel of 5.2" by 1.8" of travel you'd be doing good to make a part bigger than maybe 3.5" x 1.25". You will very quickly decide this machine is too small for RC purposes. My modified X2 (same thing as the Grizzly in Reflections link) does 4.9" x 9.1" and it's not any bigger than it needs to be.

I don't think the cranks are that big of an issue because there is so little table travel. What I would think would be an issue is the time it would take to make anything out of aluminum with it. Even with my x2, running it manually, it takes a long time to make a part.

[C*H*U*D]

Not only is the amount of travel per revolution an issue, you have to add into the fact that you will be taking many light passes since there isn't much rigidity on this machine. So take your 21 cranks per inch and multiply that by 5-7.

I agree that for just a little bit more, you can have a much stouter machine.

[inkdaddy66]

To clarify what you're attempting to get at. There isn't such thing as a manual cnc machine. You're slapping 2 different machine tools together. This is a manual mill. CNC stands for computer numerical control. There is no controller on this machine. Hence the fact that it is a manual mill. Although it may work for small parts. There isn't much rigidity to this machine. On top of the fact that it appears the cutter is being held by a drill chuck. There is only 3 points for the chuck to hold the cutter. Which will produce alot of vibration during cut operations. Which will result in chatter and a horrible finish. A good machine will utilize 5c collets and a drawbar. This produces a much better holding surface. Holding the entire cutter. Good luck finding what you're looking for. Try searching for a manual hobby mill.

[MystRacing]

It can be converted to cnc there a couple companies that make kits, but I can tell you from converting my X2 it's no cake walk making a manual machine cnc. From what I've read most people use this machine for pcb work and plastics. The conversion kits cost about twice what the mill does and that doesn't include the controller and cad/cam software.

http://www.indoor.flyer.co.uk/millingmachine.htm

Here's a little more info about converting.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...f70_again.html

[sloppy]

Originally Posted by Reflection

That's pretty much it. Buying most any machine, you'll have as much or more in tooling if you buy a decent selection and quality tools at that.

Read the description..... All hand wheels are zero adjustable with one revolution equals 3/64-Inch (1.0mm) 1 division equals .002-Inch (0.05mm). ....... Better start workin out cause you'll be crankin handles for hours.

Not real sure if I'd be to keen on this.... Both vertical column and compound table are of treated, high quality aluminum. Although it may do a good job, seems the aluminum would wear out quickly.

Little bit more and you can get a little bench top mill that has a few more options, will hold bigger tooling and seems to be built a little better so it'll last longer. I've never used one of these, but going off the specs sheet, I'd rather buy this personally.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Mini...-Machine/G8689

A friend of mine has a big Grizzly mill and a Grizzly lathe in his shop at home. Both seem to be good machines for the work he does with them.

I did a search and brought up a few options you can read up on for smaller inexpensive bench top mills. http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_mill/...s/versions.htm

The Harbor freight mini(which is basically the same mill) Is a nicer set up with the R8 spindle taper Plus on CNCzone if you do a search there is cupoun for $200 off the mill.. which puts you at $399 for the mill.. A very hard price to beat for a mini mill..

I would not even consider this Proxxon thing.. Its just to small..

[Crawling Calvin]

I've seen the harbor freight mill, if it's anything like the lathe I own from there, it needs some way lapping but overall is nice when worked on!

I love my sherline but I've done a few mods to it, that's another story. Just buy informed

[sloppy]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I've seen the harbor freight mill, if it's anything like the lathe I own from there, it needs some way lapping but overall is nice when worked on!

I love my sherline but I've done a few mods to it, that's another story. Just buy informed

I own their lathe as well.. the mill is better built..

All that shit aside its the same mill as the grizzly. but with a more desirable taper on the spindle, and at a much lower price plus they have free shipping from time to time..

[inkdaddy66]

I had a cheapie lathe from harbor freight. All I can say. Garbage. Rigidity was crap. Couldn't hold tolerances for crap. Heavy roughing cuts? Yeah...uh no

[SMR 510RR]

After reading through this I was looking into these mills and the CNC conversions for them. What really is a deal breaker, at least for me, is the low spindle speed. Figure you will be using small tooling the lack of spindle speed will kill how fast you can feed this thing, 2500RPM isnt half as fast as I would like to spin 1/8" and smaller tooling.

Its even slow for manual milling anything but plastic, I would look for something with a spindle that will go to at least 3500. Also a lot of them look to have a belt that drives the spindle, less than ideal also. I would much rather see a geared head of some sort even if it is just a single speed and the motor changes the RPM.

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

After reading through this I was looking into these mills and the CNC conversions for them. What really is a deal breaker, at least for me, is the low spindle speed. Figure you will be using small tooling the lack of spindle speed will kill how fast you can feed this thing, 2500RPM isnt half as fast as I would like to spin 1/8" and smaller tooling.

Its even slow for manual milling anything but plastic, I would look for something with a spindle that will go to at least 3500. Also a lot of them look to have a belt that drives the spindle, less than ideal also. I would much rather see a geared head of some sort even if it is just a single speed and the motor changes the RPM.

Yea, I blast through 6061 at 30 ipm with a 3/16" end mill... That's on a Fadal at 6,000 RPM

Belt is used on the good olde Bridgeport... For a reason, in the event of a stall the belt slips, gears chew

Good to know on the HF mill, R8 is really common...

[sloppy]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

After reading through this I was looking into these mills and the CNC conversions for them. What really is a deal breaker, at least for me, is the low spindle speed. Figure you will be using small tooling the lack of spindle speed will kill how fast you can feed this thing, 2500RPM isnt half as fast as I would like to spin 1/8" and smaller tooling.

Its even slow for manual milling anything but plastic, I would look for something with a spindle that will go to at least 3500. Also a lot of them look to have a belt that drives the spindle, less than ideal also. I would much rather see a geared head of some sort even if it is just a single speed and the motor changes the RPM.

The grizzly, HF(all made by seig) and all of the clones use a gearhead with selectable speeds.. Most people change out the gear drive to belts so they have something that will give..