How to weld aluminum chassis??? Im trying to build a scale chassis for my car and i cant get the welds to stick to the aluminum and i went to get a pencil torch and hand torch so i dont know what to do and iv been following all the instructions so help please thanks |
Correct me if I am wrong, but don't you need a TIG welder to weld aluminum? It can be brazed, though, using this: Aero Braze Rod & Flux. |
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mig, tig, braze or torch welding. but a stick welder will not work. screws allways work and will hold any two items together.:ror: |
tig it Use a tig welder its stronger cleaner and you can control the heat a lot easier. If you don't have access most certified welders like beer. |
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Welding alluminum with a torch is not easy! I did it using all. stick rod, it has flux on it. It worked but looked messy. If I was going to try it again I'd get some small dia. stick rod, and some good flux paste. I was also told that cobalt blue lenses let you see the puddle better, but I could never find any? Good luck, and pics!"thumbsup" |
all i can say is good luck with that !! with out any kind-a shield gas, your going to have a vary dirty weld. dirty welds = no strength, even more so in alum welding. all-though alum can be welded with a stick or a gas welder, your not going to get a good/strong weld !! Ive been welding alum crawler chassis for years now, tig is the only way to go "thumbsup" the DmG |
How to braze aluminum: 1. Use high quality brazing rod. Clean your aluminum stock with MEK...then clean it again using a new rag. The aluminum can have ZERO mill oil contamination. Be sure to remove the MEK to another room and rid your work room of ALL MEK fumes as they are EXTREMELY flammable. 2. A simple propane torch works fine here...MAP doesn't work as well because it overheats the outer part of the work piece while leaving the core relatively cool. Also with MAP, by the time the core heats, the outer surface of the aluminum will sustain heat related damage in the form of oxidation, which will ruin the piece all together, It take time for even heating to occur. "tin" both ends first. Use a "helping hands" type jig to hold your work in the air to avoid any heat sinking that a solid surface will create. Heat the surfaces slowly to the point the the rod will melt when placed of the surface...you don't want your flame to melt the rod. (this is where high quality rod shines) 3. Place both pieces together leaving a 2mm gap between them, again using a "helping hands" type jig. 4. Aluminum looses heat VERY quickly. Do not pull your flame away at any time, it only takes a micro second to loose the heat it took a minute to gain! 5. Place your brazing rod to the area of the 2mm gap first, it'll fill very quickly. Then run the rod up and down...don't be afraid to "over fill" the area because you'll need to grind it down later anyways. Carbide grinding bits work very well for this, but you can even use hand files if you have all day to work on it. 6. Important: Do not touch or otherwise move your work piece for a good 15min! Also: Do not attempt to "temper" the piece with water or oil. feel free to PM me as needed |
J/B Weld |
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thanks thats what I am saying with regard to stick welding alum. |
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but it just seems nicer to help some one out, rather than complaining about two many threads :mrgreen: he will figure how to do a thread search sooner or later "thumbsup" |
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well, first he was talking about welding, then he started talking about torches so I figured he might want some info on brazing...because if he's hitting aluminum with an OA torch to weld it, that's about the worst thing he could do. The J/B just sort of slid in somehow (but it does make for a good side note) |
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