![]() | #181 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hendersonville
Posts: 209
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So, when you guys say 1/4" SS tube, is that outer dimension or inner dimension? When on McMaster-Carr, i noticed the difference and didn't know which I should order... ![]() ![]() |
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![]() | #182 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: LRAFB, AR
Posts: 48
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1/4 in is the Outside diameter AKA the OD measurement on the page. and the ID is the inside diameter |
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![]() | #183 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Hendersonville
Posts: 209
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Thanks SmoeDog. So I should get 1/4" OD, right? That's what I hear you guys saying to use for making links? That and 8/32 all thread.
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![]() | #184 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Fremont
Posts: 78
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I'm thinking about making some links ans steering link my rtr scx10. But as a newb of course I don't understand some things. First off my steering links are bent- would I also need to bend the one I make? I see the axial steering upgrade kit does not come with bent links.. Bent or Not does it matter? Then there are the rear links I see most that come bent but my stock one are that strtaight plastic, again bent or not does it matter?
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![]() | #185 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Grande Prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 261
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If you can get away with straight thats fine (quick and easy to make) Peaple bend there links to get better clearance Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2 |
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![]() | #186 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Fremont
Posts: 78
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I seen the stock set had rod ends that are bent - so you can use there straight tube I think. Will my 8/32 all treade fit into those rod ends? I got everything I needed at lunch and cant wait to get home and start making these. Last edited by 5VoltDetonator; 01-11-2013 at 03:22 PM. | |
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![]() | #187 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Fremont
Posts: 78
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Wow! What a day! Thanks for everyones help!!! I may make a new Steering link with a bend in it, right now the strraigt one seems pretty good. My POS wanna be dremel wasn't cutting like I wanted but once I got a hacksaw I was off and runnin. I can allready tell it feels better- will know more tommorow. It Begins ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Last edited by 5VoltDetonator; 01-12-2013 at 09:23 PM. |
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![]() | #188 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Grande Prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 261
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Feels good doesn't it :thumbup::thumbup: Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2 |
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![]() | #189 | |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Fremont
Posts: 78
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![]() Last edited by 5VoltDetonator; 01-12-2013 at 11:56 PM. | |
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![]() | #190 | ||
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Philippines
Posts: 1,405
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I agree... the support here is great I also ponied up the $20 for a star to support the site.. if we all do this each year it will ensure a small price to keep the support going here!!!!!!!!! so you like the DIY Links.. now you need to lookup 32 pitch gear upgrade!!! ![]() | ||
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![]() | #191 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: chicago
Posts: 262
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I just built some for my lr3 honcho. It was super easy Hobby town only had 1 bag of revo ends. But since I already have the steering upgrade and my front is still 3 link. It was just enough Great thread ![]() |
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![]() | #192 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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Just got done making my rear links using the information in this thread. Thanks to everyone who posted. I have a couple of things though. I looked everywhere in town and there was no stainless steel without special ordering it, and that was minimum 20 foot lengths, so I just used brake line and polished it up with sandpaper. The LHS only had one pack of Revo ends, so when the other pack comes in, I will finish the front and maybe steering links. Do you use the same size links for the front or do you shorten them a little bit? I know on my SCX-10 Honcho, it has shorter links on the front, but just wondering if people have done differently? Also i found a good way to install the ball ends into the Revo ends...check out my video... Revo ball ends installed easy. - YouTube And here are some pictures of my new ends... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() | #193 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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Just got done making my rear links using the information in this thread. Thanks to everyone who posted. I have a couple of things though. I looked everywhere in town and there was no stainless steel without special ordering it, and that was minimum 20 foot lengths, so I just used brake line and polished it up with sandpaper. The LHS only had one pack of Revo ends, so when the other pack comes in, I will finish the front and maybe steering links. Do you use the same size links for the front or do you shorten them a little bit? I know on my SCX-10 Honcho, it has shorter links on the front, but just wondering if people have done differently? Also i found a good way to install the ball ends into the Revo ends...check out my video... Revo ball ends installed easy. - YouTube And here are some pictures of my new ends... ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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![]() | #194 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Williston
Posts: 850
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I have a totally different way of doing things that has NOT been listed in this thread- it however may not be for you "hard core" wheelers. I used steel brake line from the auto store and filled each end with silver solder. I then heated the outside of the tube until the silver solder melted and filled in the ends. Then I drilled out the ends with the correct size drill bit and tapped the solder. (yes solder is soft, but for my stupid scale build it has worked great) I used the rc4wd rod ends that thread into my tapped links. I went with a 100% scale steering linkage. again, may not be for everyone but its accurate and will work fine for the mall crawling I will do with this truck. L.R. ![]() |
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![]() | #195 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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I will say that your rod ends look better than mine. Looks good.
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![]() | #196 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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Finished my front tie rod and drag links today...a little harder than links, but not bad. Well worth it in my opinion. ![]() |
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![]() | #197 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 639
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This post is how I did mine, I have changed this method a little. Now I don't tap the tubes. I just run the screw half way in the tube with loctite on the threads. It is hard to screw in but holds great. Then cut off the screw head and twist the rod end on. I don't tap em I just get em started then put my 3mm driver through the hole and twist em tight. Now that said, either method works well and is strong. Materials: 1/4" by .049 thick wall aluminum tubing. 2) 4x20 or 25mm screws. 3) Traxxas revo rod ends. First I removed one of my stock links and bent a piece of tubing into a slight s shape so the rod ends will go straight into the link mounts. You can make the tubing straight but it will have the rod ends right at the edge of binding.Also when you cut your tubing. If you will use a tubing cutter instead of a cutoff wheel it makes a much nicer joint. I cut my tubing at 94mm if you lay your prebent tubing on a flat surface and measure from top center to top center. ![]() ![]() Next I screwed the screw into the plastic rod end. Then cut the head of the screw off with a dremel dipping the screw into water occasionally to avoid melting the rod end. Also I tapped the aluminum rod running the tap in just far enough the screw starts binding when the rod and rod end come together. Also when you cut your tubing. If you will use a tubing cutter instead of a cutoff wheel it makes a much nicer joint. When assembling the rod end to the rod make sure to use red loctite ![]() ![]() All this worked out to make some really nice lower links for less than $20. Also the satisfaction of making them yourself. They can be easily polished to a mirror finish with some mag wheel polish. One more thing, if you notice where the links go to the lower trans plate. If you put a thin 4mm washer or so on the inside of the chrome ball it will take all the slop out. ![]() Upper links are next. Hope this helps those who wanted to try this ![]() |
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![]() | #198 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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I like the looks of your links better than mine...but I am curious as to how they are going to hold up hitting rocks and such being that they are hollow. It might not even be a factor, but just wondering. Update us after a few runs.
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![]() | #199 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: Chattanooga
Posts: 639
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I have had them on there for months and I'm running a pro4 3300kv and a rc4wd 2spd trans. They have done awesome. This tubing is stout due to its wall thickness, when it is cut down to link size you can't bend it by hand.
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![]() | #200 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2013 Location: Coupeville, WA.
Posts: 238
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That is awesome...will point a friend to your way...he snapped a solid link and bent his frame today on his red cat...
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