![]() | #201 |
Newbie Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: CO
Posts: 12
| ![]()
Can anyone give me the measurement of a chaotic crawlers straight steering link for axial xr10? end to end? thanks Last edited by merlin_008; 04-30-2013 at 11:59 AM. Reason: add |
![]() | ![]() |
Sponsored Links | |
![]() | #202 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 234
| ![]()
I used this thread when I got my first SCX10 and never came back to thank everyone for all the info. 8/32 rod and 1/4 stainless tube from Homedepot/OSH + Traxxas 5525 ends work perfect for me. Thanks everyone.
Last edited by Debonair; 04-10-2014 at 02:08 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #203 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Merced
Posts: 34
| ![]()
I just got done making all new links for my Bruiser/Scx10 hybrid using info from this thread. Thank you to everyone that has contributed to this thread as well as the rest of the board I have found a ton of great info already!
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #204 |
Newbie ![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sacramento
Posts: 36
| ![]()
Want to thank everyone for all the great information on this thread. I am new to the crawler game and needed to make longer links for the back end of my komodo so last night I picked up some 5/16 delrin and made a couple in about 20 minutes. They cam out nice and should work great. I do have a question though.. the lower links should come from the outer mount of the axel and angle in...correct? And the uppers should go from the top of the pumpkin and angle out.. correct? I have done some research and that seems to be the way it should be done. Thank you.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #205 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Oct 2009 Location: Washington State
Posts: 624
| ![]()
You can also make links from 3/16th solid aluminum rod. I got mine from McMaster Carr. It looks really good, and you don't have to sleeve it like all-thread! Just cut it to length and put threads on the end with a 10-24 die. You will need traxxas ball ends, and they should be drilled out with a 24 drill bit. >>Multipurpose Anodized Aluminum (Alloy 6061) 3/16" Diameter, 3' Length<< ![]() I used smaller diameter rod for the track bar and drag link (1/8"). I think it looks more scale, and It's really beefy for being so small! I thought that it was kind of wobbly when I got it, but after cutting it into shorter lengths and bending it up, it's very stiff! I have been running it for months, and it hasn't given me any problems. Use a 4-40 die with the smaller diameter rod, and they can be used with stock Axial ball ends! >>Multipurpose Anodized Aluminum (Alloy 6061) 1/8" Diameter, 3' Length<< ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #206 |
Newbie ![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sacramento
Posts: 36
| ![]()
Made my first links and got them all in and set without binding or hitting anything. Seems as though they will work much nicer then the ones I took off. I ended up adding a little over and inch to the length from the old ones that were on it.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #207 |
Newbie ![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sacramento
Posts: 36
| ![]()
Hey all, now that I have the rear links built and on I want to do the fronts too. I have heard that the front links should be a little bit shorter then the rears. I wanted to find out if that is true, and if so how much shorter. Also if they are shorter, why? what is the reason for the longer rear links? thanks |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #208 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Jul 2011 Location: Philippines
Posts: 1,405
| ![]()
It is mearly preferance.. eo you want a longer wheelbase or shorter? Now top and bottom links affect driveshaft angle. Make top too long or bottom too short and your driveshaft wil be pitched. There is no rule saying for rig a you need link of x size. Someone got a micro raptor v8e chassis like I have... I stretched mine to 5.5 inch and he is running massive tires and 1/10 shocks making it no longer a micro......that is the fun of it Sent from my Sprint Epic 4G using TapaTalk 2 |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #209 |
Newbie ![]() Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Sacramento
Posts: 36
| ![]()
got ya thanks, so should the tops and bottoms be about the same length (allowing for axel/drive shaft agnl)e? should they connect to the chassis in about the same place?
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #210 | |
~THE SCALE SHOP~ Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: KILLEEN TX
Posts: 10,056
| ![]()
on my latest build i did this. no tools required and quiet cheap ![]() ![]() Quote:
McMaster-Carr 8-32 studs McMaster-Carr rod ends Revo Traxxas ROD ENDS REVO LARGE W/ HOLLOW BALLS (12) Jato (longer) Traxxas Rod Ends/Hollow Balls (12ea): Jato ![]() Last edited by STANG KILLA SS; 01-21-2016 at 11:06 AM. | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #211 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 563
| ![]()
Been searching for info like this. Great thread.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #212 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Charlotte
Posts: 67
| ![]()
Got myself some of the "mcmaster" links and studs in the mail today. UPS ground and here in 1 day. Just waiting on all of my XR10 conversion parts and traxxas links!
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #213 |
Moderator ![]() Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: chicago
Posts: 2,814
| ![]()
1/4 stainless with 8/32 allthread. super easy to fab with a little time and a beefy tubing cutter. i prefer the revo ends for the increased material as well, you can also trim them down a little bit if you dont get your lengths perfect. ive had the revo ends split but it was cold as heck at the time and it was a nasty tumble. ive also bent the allthread at the rodend, but again nasty tumble. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #214 |
Newbie Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Central Kalifornia
Posts: 30
| ![]()
Great tip! I enjoy being able to make my own stuff!!
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #215 |
Newbie Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Imperial Valley (Heber)
Posts: 35
| ![]()
Scoped out Home Depot and found the stuff needed to make my own links, hobby shop tomorrow for revo rod ends. Thank you.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #216 |
Newbie Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: GA
Posts: 24
| ![]()
couple different ways to do it in this thread. anyone having problems with the solid threaded aluminum links? on my 1:1 i build my tie rod out of 7075 but i saw 6061 referenced.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #217 |
RCC Addict ![]() Join Date: May 2011 Location: at home
Posts: 1,099
| ![]()
oscar - i used 3/16 6061 aluminum rod and cut 10-32 threads on them with no problem. the revo rod ends have an outside diameter of about .280 so they could catch on rocks. i will try some 1/4 rod and see if i can cut the threads without turning the ends down first. it did take a bit of effort to bend the links so it would take a pretty hard tumble to bend them in the field. 7075 would be stronget but mcmasters does not carry it in 3/16, 1/4 is the smallest. another nice thing about the 6061 is that you can get it anodized or even chrome coated. it is an industrial chrome so it comes out a flat grey color and it is supposed to be a bit slick. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #218 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 234
| ![]()
Anyone else notice the supply of K&S precision metal at hardware stores and hobby shops has dried up? All the local locations to me that have K&S precision metal displays are mostly empty with brass and aluminum being all that is left behind and even that is in short supply. I wonder if they are getting out of the business or have some other major shortage. It has been this way for quite a while. I need to find an alternate local supplier for my 1/4 stainless steel tubing, part# 87115 or 7115 I think. Last edited by Debonair; 01-02-2015 at 09:41 PM. |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #219 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Castle Rock, WA
Posts: 8,761
| ![]() Quote:
McMaster Carr 89495K275 (SS 1/4") for sleeving 8/32" all thread. Just ordered some this week. And I ordered 1/4" standoffs in various lengths based on Stang's picture. With rod end threads. ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #220 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 234
| ![]()
Online is never an issue. It's my local supply that I am missing. I don't like waiting if I don't have to and I guess I am just spoiled, or was with having so many hobby and hardware stores in my general vicinity that carried it before. All the displays are still up, they are just empty. Really odd.
|
![]() | ![]() |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
| |