How To: Make your own links

[Soldat Vaillant]

Originally Posted by Midcoast crawler

Ok, I need a little help. I went through this whole thread and didn't find a lot about solid stainless steel rod. Is there a reason people don't use it, weight, strength?

it's rough on standard HSS cutting tools, there's not much lube in the alloys, but some are better than others. titanium coated taps, dies and drills work better and last longer, cobalt and carbide tools work better than the tin coated. plenty of cutting fluid helps too

some stainless grades are softer tensile and yield strength than a lot of steels, so look up the specs on the particular stainless you want to use. you may be better off using steel

[steven318is]

any one have any other options for the rod ends i havent had any luck with the the traxxas rod ends breaking and the treads pulling its really

[micro racer]

I went to Traxxas Jato rod ends, #5525 and haven't had any problems. My 1.9 Wraith is running a Tekin Pro4 3300kv and I was worried about the short thread engagement of the regular Revo ends, so I picked these up instead. I bent the 8-32 allthread and 1/4 in brake line front links into a pretzel (about 70-80 degrees in the middle) whacking it into a rock face, but the rod ends were perfectly fine.

[nsg1rc]

Anyone have a suggestion on a bender to build links with? 3/16" and 1/4" Alum. and Ti links

[koupe88]

Where can I get the tool to drill the center of aluminum rod
Any help would be appreciated

[Reflektr]

Forget drilling and tapping rod... JMO... Most of the links I make are 3/16 cold-rolled solid rod from the farm store. I forget which size die I run down them, but they thread right into Revo rod ends, and they are very strong. You'll break something else before you render that 3/16 rod unusable. I also use it for steering linkage. The smaller rod looks better IMO.

[Prop Shaft]

On a side note, does anyone know where I can source m3 all thread? Ive googled the hell out of it and cant come up with anything.

[jmz6]

Originally Posted by Prop Shaft

On a side note, does anyone know where I can source m3 all thread? Ive googled the hell out of it and cant come up with anything.

Try this
http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-th...-rods/=10squ6y



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[Prop Shaft]

Good site, thanks. They only seem to have m3 rod in brass though. Im looking for steel. If I cant find any in steel at least I now have a place to source some m3 if willing to settle for brass. I cant see them holding up very well though. Any one else know any place I can find some?

[GTSLOW]

Originally Posted by Kaler

I went with 3/16 steel rod, threaded the ends down to 3mm with stock axial rod ends. Plenty strong.

Did the ends need to be turned down before using the M3 die? Or were you able to use the M3 die directly on the 3/16 rod?

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

It's harder to work with.

When you say harder to work with are you talking about getting the threads cut or bending as well. Reason I ask is I'm making custom links for my Wraith axle swap. The upper has to have a bend to clear the driveshaft. The last thing I wanna deal with is rod that is impossible to bend or bend consistently.

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by Prop Shaft

Good site, thanks. They only seem to have m3 rod in brass though. Im looking for steel. If I cant find any in steel at least I now have a place to source some m3 if willing to settle for brass. I cant see them holding up very well though. Any one else know any place I can find some?

Have you checked your local hardware store? I've picked up M3 allthread in steel and stainless before locally. I was surprised they had it, but glad they did.

[kgb424]

I used 10-24 threaded rod for 1:6th scale Humvee links

That I bought at Home Depot and I know Lowe's also has it, they have 6-32, 8-32,10-24, I seen threaded 4mm rod some where too

And I used Traxxas rod ends that I drilled and tapped , Home Depot sells a 10-24 tap and the correct size drill bit

I got clean threads and the rod ends thread on real easy

need to find some cheap stainless brake line for my links

It just cost $10.00 for 40'' of 1/4'' steel brake line at Napa

The 10-24 all thread fits nicely in the 1/4'' brake line

They don't carry stainless steel brake line, the counter guy says its is too expensive

So they don't carry it, but can order it, its not cheap

I can now finish my links

[SaltyX]

Following this, I need to make upper links for my scx10

[nothinspecial]

I was hoping for a cut and dry method to making links but I should have known better

[K.O.M.]

My method is just a variation of what's already shown, it is about the same strength as the standard Axial alloy pipe links, though with the proper tools, it is very easy to make these:

-3mm ID carbon fiber pipe, $8.50 shipped from Amazon for (2) 16" sections



-3mm threaded rod, $11.00 shipped from Amazon for (10) 300mm sections



-M3 Rod Ends with pivot balls, I use generic alloy with metal ball ends, $5.00 for 16 from eBay, Aliexpress, Amazon



-Harbor Freight mini cut-off saw, this is accurate enough that people use it to cut bullet casings, much better than a pipe cutter, hacksaw, bolt-cutter, or any other implement. $30.00 +/- even less with the coupons



For the cost of the Axial alloy link upgrade kit, you will be set to do at least a full set of links initially, and then your second and third set of links will only cost you $13.50 per set (additional carbon pipe and end links), until you have to buy additional M3 threaded rod.

[sum12nv]

When you guys are saying 8/32 rod, is that not 1/4"? Also would home depot carry this stuff?

[Soldat Vaillant]

If it's 8/32 then yes, that would be 1/4", but if they're referring to 8-32 that's the screw diameter and thread pitch. This particular screw would be a number 8 diameter with 32 threads per inch.

[sum12nv]

Originally Posted by Soldat Vaillant

If it's 8/32 then yes, that would be 1/4", but if they're referring to 8-32 that's the screw diameter and thread pitch. This particular screw would be a number 8 diameter with 32 threads per inch.

Okay, thanks for the clarification. I've just read where many people keep saying "8/32" not "8-32" and knew there was a difference.

[Ltd.yfz]

Awesome thread, thanks for all the info. Im going to start building my links tomorrow!

[cabron]

this has been a very helpful link for me

THREAD IDENTIFICATION CHART

it has sae and metric thread sizes. gives you diameters and thread counts and pitch in ascending order
so it is very easy to see size comparasons
4-40 is smaller than 3mm, then 6-32 just after the 3mm, then 4mm with 8-32 just a bit bigger, then 10-24 and 10-32.
you get both mm and mils for both so the table is also useful for converting from one to the other

the only drawback is that there is no drill size listing for the hole sizes to tap.