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Old 12-08-2011, 08:07 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
I use Jato whenever possible....I will trim the link in order to use Jato. Once in awhile though, a Revo link's shorter length works better. They are both great, but the longer thread engagement of the Jato makes me feel better.
ill be sure to update if i have a revo fail. i like the idea of the thread engagement on the jato's. testing and time will tell!
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:05 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler View Post
seen that done. saw the allthread snap clean off on a trail...

What size thread was that? I plan to use 4mm, hopefully high grade steel.
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Old 12-09-2011, 05:54 AM   #63
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3 or 4mm. i dont remember, it was a truck i was running with. it was his steering link too lol.
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Old 12-09-2011, 06:27 AM   #64
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Wouldnt advise this method then?
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Old 12-09-2011, 12:36 PM   #65
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Wouldnt advise this method then?
well since it sheered clean off, the link couldnt be fixed easily. i think instead of tapping it, use a die and thread the rod. this give you one piece into the revo/jato end, and alot lees chance of breaking. i know ill be making a backup set of links for my crawlers in case something does in fact break.

Vanquish does the threaded rod into revo ends technique.

at about $2 a link, its 5X cheaper then anything else. you can also make them any shape, size length or color. i bought VP wraith upper links, its the last set ill ever buy. Making them is SOO easy its sad.

vp= $75 shipped for 4 links
home made = $10 for 4 links AT MOST.

so i can make 30 links for the same price.

now yes im using steel instead of titanium, but are you going to pay another $65 for that? dont get me wrong, they make great stuff. ill be running their chubs and knuckles, but thats because i cant make them with the tools i have.
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Old 12-17-2011, 11:06 PM   #66
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Made some links and steering arms for my Wraith today. Used the 8/32 thread with 1/4" tube as a sleeve. I used Jato ends for the suspension links and Revo ends for my steering links. Very stout. Can't see having to replace these anytime soon.
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:12 AM   #67
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Originally Posted by simon170 View Post
Anyone ever used 10mm solid alloy rod with holes drilled and tapped in each end to take a thread for rod ends?

Thinking of doing this for my big truck build.

I have not used that big of a link, but I do the same thing and use set screws. Just like Axial. I have never seen a set screw break.

Evan
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Old 12-18-2011, 10:30 AM   #68
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Default Re: How To: Make your own links

What are the best ways to thread Titanium rod? Is there a special lube or does the die need to be made of a certain material?
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Old 12-19-2011, 04:44 PM   #69
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Default Re: How To: Make your own links

Bump.
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Old 12-19-2011, 05:10 PM   #70
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Default Re: How To: Make your own links

Good looking links OntarioCrawler. I was wondering what brands of dies you guys are using? Seems there are a lot of different ones but some seem to cheap to be any good.

Bump on the info for making Ti links too...
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Old 12-19-2011, 06:15 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by SINister View Post
Good looking links OntarioCrawler. I was wondering what brands of dies you guys are using? Seems there are a lot of different ones but some seem to cheap to be any good.

Bump on the info for making Ti links too...
im using mastercraft ones. its a cheap set, but im only cutting steel. i polosh the links with a wire wheel on my drill press.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:46 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler View Post
im using mastercraft ones. its a cheap set, but im only cutting steel. i polosh the links with a wire wheel on my drill press.
Thanks for the info. What about threading 1/4 rod to 4mm for some heavy duty links? Would you need to turn down the rod to be able to use the die? I've used taps but never a die so sorry if it's a stupid question.
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Old 12-22-2011, 09:57 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SINister View Post
Thanks for the info. What about threading 1/4 rod to 4mm for some heavy duty links? Would you need to turn down the rod to be able to use the die? I've used taps but never a die so sorry if it's a stupid question.

Yes there is a maximum O.D. for each tap to be able to start the threading process.
I still would like to know what type of tap is used on Titanium?
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Old 12-22-2011, 10:11 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB View Post
Yes there is a maximum O.D. for each tap to be able to start the threading process.
I still would like to know what type of tap is used on Titanium?
Ok thanks. Heres a link to a thread on Ti links. Looks like correct OD, cutting fluid and quality dies is all you need or at least according to these guys.

threading titanium rod
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Old 12-22-2011, 01:20 PM   #75
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Default Re: How To: Make your own links

I just bought some 8/32" all thread and 1/4" steel tube

and these rod ends:

Traxxas Jato Rod Ends (12) with hollow balls (12) #5525*-*Miscellaneous*-*-Suspension*-*The Crawlers Store LLC

The rods arent pre-threaded.. how will I need to thread these plastic rod ends for the all thread?

Thanks!
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Old 12-22-2011, 04:19 PM   #76
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Originally Posted by jacobfreeman View Post
I just bought some 8/32" all thread and 1/4" steel tube

and these rod ends:

Traxxas Jato Rod Ends (12) with hollow balls (12) #5525 - Miscellaneous - -Suspension - The Crawlers Store LLC

The rods arent pre-threaded.. how will I need to thread these plastic rod ends for the all thread?

Thanks!
To get the threads straight I used a 8/32 tap. Get it at the local hardware store.
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Old 12-22-2011, 06:35 PM   #77
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Thanks! Any suggestions on what to cut the all thread with besides dermal.. anyone know if bolt cutters would work?
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Old 12-22-2011, 08:26 PM   #78
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Default Re: How To: Make your own links

Quote:
Originally Posted by jacobfreeman View Post
Thanks! Any suggestions on what to cut the all thread with besides dermal.. anyone know if bolt cutters would work?
side cutters, or bolt cutters will work fine, but mess it a little. id use a hack saw if ou have nothing else.

i use a angle grinder with a cut off wheel in my vise.
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Old 12-23-2011, 01:04 AM   #79
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bolt cutters did the job.. not the prettiest but it threaded and works.
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Old 12-23-2011, 03:15 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler View Post
well since it sheered clean off, the link couldnt be fixed easily. i think instead of tapping it, use a die and thread the rod. this give you one piece into the revo/jato end, and alot lees chance of breaking. i know ill be making a backup set of links for my crawlers in case something does in fact break.

Vanquish does the threaded rod into revo ends technique.

at about $2 a link, its 5X cheaper then anything else. you can also make them any shape, size length or color. i bought VP wraith upper links, its the last set ill ever buy. Making them is SOO easy its sad.

vp= $75 shipped for 4 links
home made = $10 for 4 links AT MOST.

so i can make 30 links for the same price.

now yes im using steel instead of titanium, but are you going to pay another $65 for that? dont get me wrong, they make great stuff. I am running their chubs and knuckles, but thats because i cant make them with the tools i have.
x100

Always made my own and never had one fail.
8/32 all thred and 1/4 brake like with REVO ends.
I dont tap my ends tho, at lest not with a tap. I run a 8/32 screw down threw them then the all thred slides in snug.
When you tap a hole your removeing material and never thought that was a good idea with a plastic hole. I also cut all thred with a roto tool and clean up my cuts so theres clean threds there from the start. If the end's boogerd from the start it's a PITA to get started in the rod ends and then I wouldn't trust the threds once that boogerd end got to the bottom of the hole.
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