![]() | #81 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Shirley
Posts: 498
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simple solution to the "boogered" ends of cut all thread is to run a nut on first, cut with anything you want. then grind the end to clean it up, i usually put a slight bevel all the way around. then spin the nut back off, cleans the threads well. also a pair of electrical strippers/crimpers usually have a cutter just for 6-8-10 screws. work well on softer metal machine screws, maybe not recommended for hardened/stainless thread
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![]() | #82 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Knee deep in a creek with a fish on the line
Posts: 456
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Another option for those of you that don't have all the tools is to use axial links. They are drilled and tapped already for 3mm. I had some in my parts box and needed two new links. I cut them to length with a tube cutter drilled and tapped them out for a 4mmx20mm set screw, and used traxxas rod ends. Easy and the hole was perfectly centered (I don't have a drill press). Not the cheapest but maybe another alternative for those with limited tools.
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![]() | #83 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Land of the Cactus
Posts: 281
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I do have limited tools since all im working with consists of dremel, vise and vice grips. Ive made links with 8/32 tr and 1/4 breakline and they work great and are super easy to make as long as your going for a straight link. Problem i have is figuring out how to measure for bent links using this method. Say i need a 130 mm link but want a nice bend in it for high clearance rear lower. If i cut to 130 mm and bend, now its way short. How do you determine how much longer the link has to be with consistency. Im tired of wasting material trying to figure this out?
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![]() | #84 | |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: Burnaby, BC
Posts: 136
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Why not try a piece of paper / cardboard / corrugated plastic or something similar? Cut it to various lengths, make the bend you want and measure from end to end to find the length you need to make a 130mm bent link? Once you've figured out the geometry required, use that as a base to match up your material to. Measure, measure, cut, bend, compare to your template piece, bend again if necessary until it's perfect? Or draw a template, mark 130mm in length, then put your material down and outline it along the bend you want, then measure through the bend and you'll have the full length you need. :-) | |
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![]() | #85 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: vincennes 2 hours south of indianapolis
Posts: 398
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How do you go about getting your solid rod drilled perfectly centered
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![]() | #86 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Georgetown, On
Posts: 345
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![]() | #87 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Goin broke losing weight.....
Posts: 2,262
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![]() | #88 | |
Rock Crawler ![]() Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Albany
Posts: 640
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(Desired length) - (130 mm bent link eye to eye) = the length you add to the 130 mm starting length (130 mm) - (110 mm example) = 20 mm 20 mm + 130 mm = 150 mm And Or use card board and cut and measure I hope this helps. ![]() Evan | |
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![]() | #89 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Land of the Cactus
Posts: 281
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Thanks guys on your input, im gonna try this right now.
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![]() | #90 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Posts: 188
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I'm looking for a bit of help making some links myself. I bought some 5mm aluminum tubes with 4mm inside hole diameters. I have plenty of Losi ball ends with 3mm holes, but It looks like I'll have to get some 4mm rods to fit the tubes. Do the Traxxas ball ends take 4mm threads? The only reason I'm trying to stick with Metric is because because I have a Metric tap and die set, but I have no trouble buying a SAE tap. Anyhow, I would appreciate help because this is the one place I'm spinning my wheels with on my scaler build. |
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![]() | #91 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Georgetown, On
Posts: 345
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![]() | #92 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Posts: 188
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Any idea where I can buy a few feet of 4mm rod... everything in the states is SAE. Sent from my LG-P509 using Tapatalk |
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![]() | #93 | |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
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You can also get it from McMaster-Carr, but they only sell in meters not feet ![]() Last edited by C*H*U*D; 01-03-2012 at 12:50 PM. | |
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![]() | #94 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Posts: 188
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All my local hardware stores sell SAE rods only... dang Amerika. Is Aluminum worth a try, or not strong enough? EDIT: Good news. I tried some SAE rods I bought at Home Depot for a trailer build, and they measure just about 4mm in diameter and slide right on into the tubes nicely. I'll go back and buy some more of this rod. So, are the Traxxas ends thick enough to allow to be taped for 4mm rods? If so, then I'll order up a set. ![]() This is a losi 3mm end. Looking at post #24, it looks like these should work. How To: Make your own links http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGB7&P=FR Last edited by tycoonman; 01-03-2012 at 05:29 PM. |
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![]() | #95 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: The land of snow
Posts: 312
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I couldn't find any metric on the weekend, not much open thanks to the holidays. I just bought the SAE equivalent which is 8-32 (99% sure as I'm sitting here) I used the Large REVO links with out issue ![]() |
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![]() | #96 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Posts: 188
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Well thank you very much folks, for your help. I just bought a pack of the larger Revo ball ends. I'm sure they will fit fine. Looking forward to making some links. ![]() |
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![]() | #97 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: The land of snow
Posts: 312
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It nice not having the rear links fold in half when i load the front against something ![]() | |
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![]() | #98 |
I joined the Band! Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: https://t.me/pump_upp
Posts: 188
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Certainly... that and just the cost. To make three feet of links it will cost MUCH less than buying anything factory made (labeled, really). As for durability, I just dunno. Time will tell I suppose. ![]() |
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![]() | #99 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Georgetown, On
Posts: 345
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![]() | #100 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Knee deep in a creek with a fish on the line
Posts: 456
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There is no need to tap the revo ends to 4mm. They will screw in as is, and it gives you a nice deep set on the threads that will not pull out.
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