How To: Make your own links

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by punkfan

There is no need to tap the revo ends to 4mm. They will screw in as is, and it gives you a nice deep set on the threads that will not pull out.

I actually prefer 8-32 if going this route. The thread is a bit coarser than M4. However, I still like to tap the first half to help with getting the rod end on straight, but I'm kind of picky about stuff like that.

[relic68]

Ditto on the 8/32, Ive been making links for about 3 hours today!!

[ghtpdm5]

same on the 8-32. have about 5 sets made with it and not one has torn out. another thing, i've been using 1" threaded studs i get through mcmaster carr in 5/16 delrin rod. very good system once you make yourself a driver bit for them.

[tycoonman]

Originally Posted by ghtpdm5

same on the 8-32. have about 5 sets made with it and not one has torn out. another thing, i've been using 1" threaded studs i get through mcmaster carr in 5/16 delrin rod. very good system once you make yourself a driver bit for them.

So you don't use a rod all the way through the outer tube?

[C*H*U*D]

His style is different. He's using solid Delrin rod and drilling the ends, not 1/4" tube and all-thread.

[tycoonman]

Rods came in an impressive 2 days!

For those interested, I used 8-32 rods from Home Depot, 4mm (inner diameter) K&S aluminum rods, and Traxxas #5347 ball-ends.

Perfect fit and no additional taping necessary.

[ghtpdm5]

Originally Posted by tycoonman

So you don't use a rod all the way through the outer tube?

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

His style is different. He's using solid Delrin rod and drilling the ends, not 1/4" tube and all-thread.

chud is correct. i drill out 5/16" delrin rod and then drive the studs in to proper depth. a bit difficult to remove them, but i make a new set of links for each chassis. there is a touch of flex, but with the studs in as far as they are, it stiffens it up a bit. the tube and all-thread method makes for the strongest links, but they're a bit more difficult to bend because of it. i prefer working with delrin since all you need is a heat gun to get a nice bend.

[tycoonman]

They look great. Thanks again!

[SINister]

For years I've had great success with the all-thread and sleeve links but when I saw this thread I just had to try it. Got the stuff I needed and got a chance to make some today. Turned out great and they feel super strong so I just wanted to say thanks for the idea.

If anyone is wanting to try stainless steel I found some at metaldepot.com for a good price. You can get 6' worth in 2ft lengths for about $20 shipped easily enough for a couple trucks. Thanks again

[warriorsimi]

has anyone tried making their links out of 1/4 inch solid alluminum,i turned down the alluminum to 4mm and threaded the end for the revo end ,it was the first try and it turned out great ,i had about 20 feet of it that i never used and i just thought i try it and it was super easy and they feel super strong.i will get pics soon.

[ghtpdm5]

i lack a lathe, but made a couple with the drill out and stud method, worked well. don't run em since i switched to delrin for slickness on the rock.

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by warriorsimi

has anyone tried making their links out of 1/4 inch solid alluminum,i turned down the alluminum to 4mm and threaded the end for the revo end ,it was the first try and it turned out great ,i had about 20 feet of it that i never used and i just thought i try it and it was super easy and they feel super strong.i will get pics soon.

I'd be leery of threaded aluminum. The picture below is stainless all-thread that snapped right at the Jato link end. These are strong, but not indestructible...let us know how the aluminum works out, but I think a good hit from a tumble might snap it.

[warriorsimi]

i was needing longer links for a rig i am building but stainless tube is really expensive so thought why not try it ,most of the stuff i do is trail runs so think it will be fine at least better than plastic.and cost me nothing but a little time.

[Propane]

Originally Posted by warriorsimi

i was needing longer links for a rig i am building but stainless tube is really expensive so thought why not try it ,most of the stuff i do is trail runs so think it will be fine at least better than plastic.and cost me nothing but a little time.

Those look nice. What material did you end up using? How long does it take you per link to cut, turn down and thread them? Again looks good and should be plenty strong. If you drive your rig like a 1:1 and avoid big falls or long tumbles the links will be fine. People act surprise when they send a 8 pound rig end over end down a hill that they break, at that point generally something will break. Either a link, mount or shock hoop.

[sim]

Looks good but it won't be as strong as drilling and tapping the aluminium to hold a long M4 grub screw (25mm or so). Try that if you snap these.

[warriorsimi]

i went with solid alluminum ,i can buy the alluminum really cheap and it only takes a few minutes to turn down and thread.i am sure it would be stronger if i drill and tap but i wanted to use what i have so i didn't have to go looking for grub screws .i only did one end to see if i can do it.

[OntarioCrawler]

so a report on the 3/16th links. they are very nice and strong, but the steel allows some movement. ill be bumping to 1/4" on the next ones.

[SlickRockSpider]

Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler

i bought some VP stuff last month, $75 shipped for 4 links. for the cost of steel, and time, i can make 25 links for that same price. (no more links buying for meee)

Are you talking about titanium links from VP ??

Evan

[OntarioCrawler]

yea i was. they are great, but my god the price.

[offroad1911]

Something I did and it was really cheap was used all-thread and sleeved them with archery cut offs I got free from my local archery shop. The sleeves were from carbon arrows, really strong.