How To: Make your own links

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by offroad1911

Something I did and it was really cheap was used all-thread and sleeved them with archery cut offs I got free from my local archery shop. The sleeves were from carbon arrows, really strong.

Very cool! There was a vendor on here not too long ago that was selling links made from carbon arrows. He used the inserts as well which made it easy to screw on the rod ends.

[FlexJohnson]

When sleeving the 8/32 all thread with the 1/4 in tubing, is there gonna be some wiggle room between the thread and tube?? or should it fit in there snug??

[madkawi650]

There's just enough wiggle room to slide the 4mm threaded rod I use, inside easily. I don't think it would fit if you even wrapped a single round of paper over the threads, but maybe.. It just seems perfect.
Now the imperial size equivalent, I'm not sure of.. However, when you screw the rod ends on tight, all the pieces seem to become one.. Just like one solid piece of steel.


Sent from my highly abused iPhone using Tapatalk

[C*H*U*D]

There is wiggle room with 8-32 as well, but like Madkawi said, once you tighten the rod ends on, everything tightens up.

[Burritobeau]

Where do you all get the tubing? All I can find locally so far is aluminum. Too flimsy. All the brake line locally has the ugly black coating that will scratch off. Any suggestions. The hardware store had brass but I'm not sure about that, not to mention the color.

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by Burritobeau

Where do you all get the tubing? All I can find locally so far is aluminum. Too flimsy. All the brake line locally has the ugly black coating that will scratch off. Any suggestions. The hardware store had brass but I'm not sure about that, not to mention the color.

I usually buy the 1/4" stainless at my local Ace Hardware. They have those K&S Metal displays with the metal sheet and tubing. I also get it from my local Hobby Town...they have the same display.

[FlexJohnson]

Thanks.. I was at home depot this past weekend and had the supplies in hand but decided against it because of the wiggle room but now I can go back and buy the supplies

[Burritobeau]

Thanks C.H.U.D. I tried both of those and no luck. Only aluminum and brass at ace. Maybe I'll try another ace.

[madkawi650]

I get all my brake line at auto parts stores. They sell it in pre-made length and in rolls.. I just pick up a 50" line for about $7
If only the coated is available just cut the lengths you need then put it gently in a drill and spin it while holding sand paper on it.. It'll clean right off.. I use 1000 grit on my Un-coated line to make it shine like chrome.


Sent from my highly abused iPhone using Tapatalk

[ghtpdm5]

i'm lucky enough to have a good local metals shop that i frequently do business with. they have all sorts of things for links, 1/4" thickwall (.035 i think) which doesn't leave wiggle room on 8-32. also go there to bend links if i make metal ones for various projects. all-thread i go through them or mcmaster to get stainless 8-32, also get my 8-32 1" threaded studs through mcmaster.


question directed to those using tube without all-thread in them. how do you do the ends? do you run an insert or braze a stud or even just run small tube to tap? interested in doing hollow ends for my uppers since they are straight and don't grind on rock.

[Burritobeau]

The brake line, sandpaper and drill worked so good. Thanks for that reply. If your having trouble finding suitable tubing, do it. Cheap and everywhere.

[OntarioCrawler]

Lets get some pictures of all this work!

[ik632]

I've been thinking about doing this but want to make some bent links for my XR10. I was going to order 3/16"od x 0.1315" id. It's just the right size to tap with an M4 x 0.7 but wondered if it's tough enough for an XR. The wall is only 0.028" thick. I can do 1/4" standard steel (4130) tubing with 0.065" wall thickness and 0.120" id (so it would need to be chased before tapping for M4). I think the thread with sleeve is great, but I don't want to do that on my truck.

[Lincoln]

Thanks for all the good info.

[dunerinaz]

You guys that are using 8-32 all thread and 1/4" tubing, what wall thickness are you using for the tubing? McMaster Carr sells the 1/4" stainless in 5 or 6 wall thicknesses.

[Grundy]

8978K123
Rigid Aluminum Tubing, 1/4" Od, .18" Id, .035" Wall Thickness, 3' Length $2.36
98847A009
18-8 Stainless Steel Threaded Rod, 8-32 Thread, 3' Length $2.90
98837A009
Plain Steel Threaded Rod, 8-32 Thread, 3' Length $1.22


This is what I use from McMaster-Carr and if I order in the morning it's at my door the next morning here in Las Vegas.

[Doomp]

i was in Arkansas the other day and stopped by lowes and picked up 9Ft of 6/32 all thread, that's all they had and of course they didn't have the right size tubing for the links on my scx10. so today i went to all the local automotive shops and the best i could find was 6mm brakeline, picked up two 30' sticks. And my hobby shop hasn't had revo or jato rod ends for like a month so i picked up three packs of 2742 rod ends. Their is just a little wiggle room between the all thread and the inside of the brakeline. Now is this going to be suitable or have i screwed up some where? stock Electronics, 2s 40c 5000mah.

[transambill]

That wiggle room dont hurt anything, I use "3/16 all thred with "1/4 brakeline and have wiggle room.
Also if you have a Pep Boy's auto parts store around you they have a Traxxas section that has the Revo rod ends.

[Doomp]

Pep Boy's? HA i live in the sticks in Oklahoma, I have to drive 28 miles to get to a hobbytown usa. But i have enough trucks and planes that if i break acouple, i still have ones to drive/fly. Thank you "transambill", i wasn't sure if the wiggle room would bend the end of the all thread or not.

[transambill]

My nearest HobbyClown is over an hour away. Once you tighten the rod ends against the tube it will solid it all up and you won't have any slop.