How To: Make your own links

[Solitaire]

Likely a bit late to address the above post, but Traxxas 5347 rod ends are 17mm eye to end.

[morphias]

WTF?!

E-mailed McMaster Carr to see how much shipping would be to Australia for 3 x 8-32x3' SS allthread rods and 3 x 1/4"x3' SS tubes and this is the reply I received:

Hi Ben,

Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from our established customers. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We will not provide a quotation or accept your orders.

Aaron


How do you become an 'established' customer if they won't take your order? I also don't get the complexity comment - I order all sorts of stuff, including gun parts, from the USA without issue. I have also bought tube and rod of eBay from the USA without issue.

This is really disappointing because these sizes are uncommon in Australia and VERY expensive. Like $16AUD for a 12" length of 8-32 SS allthread and $20AUD for a 12" length of 1/4" SS tube. Makes it cheaper to buy the genuine links kit...

Seriously...you just wrap the rods and tubes in a little bubble wrap, put them in a 2.5" cardboard tube from the post office and send it. Nothing 'complex' about it.

Oh well...back to searching for a more open minded supplier...

Ben.

[transambill]

I get my rod and tubing from these guys, https://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRH...ogo-_-HomePage
I think they'll ship to you. There tubing is by far some of the best I've used and beats the hell out of brake line.

[morphias]

Originally Posted by transambill

I get my rod and tubing from these guys, https://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRH...ogo-_-HomePage
I think they'll ship to you. There tubing is by far some of the best I've used and beats the hell out of brake line.

Cheers mate!

They do ship to Aus.

I mean, seriously, we're talking about some fasteners and some tubing, not WMD's. Some people just aren't interesting in talking money or selling...

Thanks,
Ben.

[morphias]

Sad panda...

Minimum order of $200USD for international orders.



Might be better off getting a set of dies and cutting thread on bar stock.

What size bar stock would you use if you want to thread it to 8-32?


Also, can we get a sticky or update on the first page with a list of models and the length you need to cut the rod and tube to for the different links?


Ben.

[RootBreaker]

well i ordered front and rear 4 link plates as I dont have a good workbench to create the metal plates.. all thread and sleeves I can do!
I was looking at going with OEM but didnt like the prices of it.. i spent enough right now and the wife aint gonna like that... so to get links cheap would be nice..

will post up with pics when all parts come in and i make the links...

[morphias]

If you are making links for a Dingo, see my post here - might explain things a bit better and reduce the confusion and frustration:

Dingo Link Lengths

Ben.

[morphias]

AUSSIES TAKE NOTE!

If you are looking for cheap stainless 1/4" tube in Australia, I got mine from www.prochecm.com.au in Brisbane. Minimum 6m buy, but it is $50 and they'll cut it down to 1 or 2m lengths for easier transport if you want. The size in metric is 6.35mmx0.91mm - this is what you want to ask for. If you're in Brisbane and need some, let me know. I am happy to sell you a 2m length for $20. Beats paying ~$20 for a 12" length from your LHS!

As for stainless 8-32 UNC rod, I got a 3' length for $16 from Bearings Information - Hobby and Engineering Parts at Capalaba. They only ever keep one length in stock by the sounds of it. It was the only place I could find it after weeks of searching and international sellers not wanting to ship to Aus unless I order $200 worth of gear.

If I need any more, I will just go with 4mm stainless allthread - heaps cheaper and a piece-of-piss to get from any fasterners shop. 8-32UNC is 4.166mm - such a marginal difference that you won't notice it.

Ben.

[RootBreaker]

this is not chep... cheaper but not cheap and work involved.... 2 bags of revo ends.. x $9 each... $18 for ends plus $6 all thread and $5 cover.... $29 plus 7% uncle sam.... still not cheap.. 2 packs cus.. 4 link x 2 front = 8 front x 2 for back... 16 plus steering and tie rod.... so 4 more... 20 needed.....

Sent from my Epic 4G Touch using Tapatalk

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by RootBreaker

this is not chep... cheaper but not cheap and work involved.... 2 bags of revo ends.. x $9 each... $18 for ends plus $6 all thread and $5 cover.... $29 plus 7% uncle sam.... still not cheap.. 2 packs cus.. 4 link x 2 front = 8 front x 2 for back... 16 plus steering and tie rod.... so 4 more... 20 needed.....

Sent from my Epic 4G Touch using Tapatalk

The Revo ends will last far, far longer than what comes stock. I've reused the same set time and time again on different builds.

The work you put in and the stuff you learn is beyond pricing.

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

The Revo ends will last far, far longer than what comes stock. I've reused the same set time and time again on different builds.

The work you put in and the stuff you learn is beyond pricing.

true... true...

Sent from my Epic 4G Touch using Tapatalk

[morphias]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

The Revo ends will last far, far longer than what comes stock. I've reused the same set time and time again on different builds.

The work you put in and the stuff you learn is beyond pricing.

+1


Making them from steel or stainless, they are significantly stronger than the aluminum Axial ones.

On the Dingo, the bought ones are too long, so the wheels don't line up with the centre of the arches.

Plus you end up with plenty of materials and ends left over to make up spares.

Ben.

[RootBreaker]

So as I listed above.. i got my links, all thread and brake line and did front and rear 4 links... i had to go out and buy 1' of allthread.. tractor supply sells it in 1' lengths for $.99 and home depot was $2.99 for 3' so not thinking of building a rig anytime soon.. i decided to just buy 1'...

so now my ax10 scorpion is fully all-brake'd


now im going to build a FOFF... my ax10 isnt fully done yet.. want to do a few minor things (castle bec, lipo, rear steer, new tx/rx).... but it is playable and enjoyable now.. so a slow FOFF build where i can save is what im shooting for..

so.. im at $32 (roughly) to make front/rear 4 link, steering link and drag link......

what size solid rod is recommended with what size die?

i see people saying they used 1/4" steel rod but they just say.. used a die... im gonna ass-ume.. into revo ends.. .what is the threading inside of revo ends? we just keep saying to throw a tap into the revo ends to get it to 8/32....

appreciate it!!!

[transambill]

Most guys use 3/16 tube and/or solid rod to build chassis.
4mm will thred rite into Revo rod ends without tapping it first, most guys say to tap the Revo ends for 3/16 because thats the size all-thred commanly used and covered in 1/4 tube or brake line for links.The only 3mm I use anywhere is the hardware holding the rig together, I don't trust 3mm being strong enough for links.

[Erin]

Originally Posted by transambill

Most guys use 3/16 tube and/or solid rod to build chassis.
4mm will thred rite into Revo rod ends without tapping it first, most guys say to tap the Revo ends for 3/16 because thats the size all-thred commanly used and covered in 1/4 tube or brake line for links.The only 3mm I use anywhere is the hardware holding the rig together, I don't trust 3mm being strong enough for links.

Ive been using 3/16 ti, ss, and 7075 with 10-24 threads. Really not hard at all and diameter doesnt need to be reduced for 8-32. Run a tap into revos and they thread right on.

[bigemike]

where do you find delrin with the right id, I got 1/4" and it is really small internally

[rmdesignworks]

I just recently made some links using 3/16" 4130 rod...1/4" 4130 rod...welded together...I cut two 1" pieces of 1/4" that get drilled and tapped...then cut the 3/16" to whatever length for the link minus 2"...line up the 1/4" with the 3/16" and weld them up...grind it down clean. The 3/16" is too hard to bend without a vise and holds up well to the hardest hits...my current tie rod on my Sporty is made this way.

[donhd04]

Ok i have a small question. What is the best way to put small bends (say 15*) in the 8/32 allthread with 1/4" stainless sleeves type links? Can i put 1 rod end on and put that end in the vise and bend it to the desired amount, then screw on the opposite rod end? If anyone has a short video would be helpful too. Thanks in advance.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by donhd04

Ok i have a small question. What is the best way to put small bends (say 15*) in the 8/32 allthread with 1/4" stainless sleeves type links? Can i put 1 rod end on and put that end in the vise and bend it to the desired amount, then screw on the opposite rod end? If anyone has a short video would be helpful too. Thanks in advance.

If you have a vise & misc steel bits (square, nuts, whatever) you can make a small press.
Open the vise jaws, lay the link across the face of the open jaws. On one side, you can use nuts between the jaw face & link ends, on the other side of the link, put a bolt (1/4"?) between the link & jaw face between the nuts.
Tighten the vise up so it bends the link.

Think of your hand & the 3 middle fingers. The middle finger would go on one side of your link the fingers of either side of the middle one would go on the other side of the link.

. O .
O O [Sorta like this}

Now try to get all 3 fingers lined up.

Make sense?

Since I don't have an actual press, I use the vise for some stuff like this.

[Hmmmm drawing sucks....)

[aktyfoon]

Originally Posted by morphias

WTF?!

E-mailed McMaster Carr to see how much shipping would be to Australia for 3 x 8-32x3' SS allthread rods and 3 x 1/4"x3' SS tubes and this is the reply I received:

Hi Ben,

Due to the complexity of U.S. export regulations, McMaster-Carr accepts international orders only from our established customers. This decision also applies to orders shipping within the United States, because it is based on the final destination of the items. We will not provide a quotation or accept your orders.


Seriously...you just wrap the rods and tubes in a little bubble wrap, put them in a 2.5" cardboard tube from the post office and send it. Nothing 'complex' about it.

Oh well...back to searching for a more open minded supplier...

Ben.

Ben, I get that all the time from companies also. "Shipping to Alaska is going to be twice the amount of the part plus an international shipping rate times Pi..." What a F****n' Racket. Put it in a box a put a stamp on it.

Oh, on the thread topic. I got Revo ends and 8-32 thread. They are stout and easy to make any length you need. Got a set I'm cutting up for my NewBright JK build.
I did break an end. I put it in a vice and threaded the stick right though it. I was using a drill to get them done quick. Duh, slow and take your time. It only cost me one end and lesson learned. Late Ty.