How To: Make your own links

[Tom G]

Here is my home made link bender a must have for making Titanium links
This design allows you to bend both links at the same time with reasonable accuracy

I have the center dies in 2 , 3, 4, & 5 inch dia.

Attachment 315637

[scaled]

Based on the Axial upgraded link specifications the longest tubes are nearly 2/10" longer than 4". The Revo ends may make up the differences but by the time I added things up With the standoffs and all I was approaching a Titanium link set in price. Granted I would have spares but not the budget upgrade I was looking for.

Instead, I bought 3' of 1/4 stainless tubing some allthread, and a tap for less than half the price of the standoffs on Amazon. Hopefully this will all work out well with some garage engineering.

[darkstar]

So after reading all 14 pages tonight... I want to get a few things clear, I plan on making my own steering links, but need some clarification.

I have some 4130 3/16 solid rod. I want to be able to thread it into the revo rod ends.

I've read on there that I just need to run a 10/24 die directly onto the 3/16 rod, and it will thread right on to the revo end?

[RootBreaker]

Originally Posted by darkstar

So after reading all 14 pages tonight... I want to get a few things clear, I plan on making my own steering links, but need some clarification.

I have some 4130 3/16 solid rod. I want to be able to thread it into the revo rod ends.

I've read on there that I just need to run a 10/24 die directly onto the 3/16 rod, and it will thread right on to the revo end?

Sounds right...

Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Note 3

[TacoCrawler]

read through this thread and many others...
honestly... I find many comments are of little help
and are more prone to confuse rather then clarify.

So many different methods are utilized...
and so many of them seem less then efficient.

I need to make custom links for a Wraith
of which the wheel base needs be extended (1/6 scale).

I intend to use 1/4" OD SS tube
with 8/32" all thread inserted the full length of the tube.
plus 4mm Revo rod ends.

But here's where I seem to find too many inconsistencies.

Is 8/32" the same diameter as 10-24 ?

Few folk list what wall thickness the tubing should be ?

My local hardware store(s) don't have the material I need in stock.
so I will need order that online. (McMaster-Carr likely)
Problem is... I can't check the fitment without having it on hand.
And I want the tightest fitment of the 8/32" all thread inserted into the tube.
Any excessive play could be detrimental to strength.

So... (and because I suck at math)

What is the correct wall thickness on the tube ? .028, .035, .049 or what ?
The 8/32 all thread needs to fit precisely inside the tube (full length)
with little play (wiggle room) otherwise it could bend easier.

I don't wish to tap threads into a tube end because I would need invest
in those tools and I'd rather not.

Who here has the correct answer regarding my inquiry ?

please clarify for me if you know.

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by TacoCrawler

But here's where I seem to find too many inconsistencies.

Is 8/32" the same diameter as 10-24 ?

Few folk list what wall thickness the tubing should be ?

My local hardware store(s) don't have the material I need in stock.
so I will need order that online. (McMaster-Carr likely)
Problem is... I can't check the fitment without having it on hand.
And I want the tightest fitment of the 8/32" all thread inserted into the tube.
Any excessive play could be detrimental to strength.

So... (and because I suck at math)

What is the correct wall thickness on the tube ? .028, .035, .049 or what ?
The 8/32 all thread needs to fit precisely inside the tube (full length)
with little play (wiggle room) otherwise it could bend easier.

I don't wish to tap threads into a tube end because I would need invest
in those tools and I'd rather not.

Who here has the correct answer regarding my inquiry ?

please clarify for me if you know.

I don't think it's 8/32", that's probably a typo or misnomer and it would actually be 1/4" anyway. It should be 8-32 and it's smaller than 10-24 and 10-32. The first number (8, 10) in the X-XX screw size designation is the size of the screw, #8 or #10 in this case. The second (32, 24) is the number of threads per inch.

A #8 screw has a real world measurement .161"-.163" in diameter (specs say .164"), a piece of 8-32 threaded rod should be similar but I didn't have threaded rod handy to measure. A piece of 1/4" OD x .035" wall tube has and ID of .180", a piece 1/4" OD x .049" wall tube has an ID of just .152". The .035" wall is a little too big and .049" is going to be too small (ID wise). To get a snug fit with #8 rod you would need to find .044" wall 1/4" OD tube and I'm not sure it exists in stainless.

If I were building a set of 8-32 links with 1/4" tube I would probably use some epoxy or JB Weld on the threaded rod to fill the gap with the .180" ID tube. I would also consider drilling and tapping the .065" or .083" wall tube, but I have those tools on hand.

Information regarding the size of 10-24 threaded rod, specs are .190" diameter on #10 screws and rods. A 1/4" OD x .028" wall tube has an ID of .194". Much better fit, but slightly weaker tubing with the .028" wall and you may need different rod ends.

Also bare in mind that welded tube usually has a weld seam inside, this can make snug fitment a little difficult unless you're willing to drill or ream the tube first.

[TacoCrawler]

Originally Posted by Eric0424

I don't think it's 8/32", that's probably a typo or misnomer and it would actually be 1/4" anyway. It should be 8-32 and it's smaller than 10-24 and 10-32. The first number (8, 10) in the X-XX screw size designation is the size of the screw, #8 or #10 in this case. The second (32, 24) is the number of threads per inch.

A #8 screw has a real world measurement .161"-.163" in diameter (specs say .164"), a piece of 8-32 threaded rod should be similar but I didn't have threaded rod handy to measure. A piece of 1/4" OD x .035" wall tube has and ID of .180", a piece 1/4" OD x .049" wall tube has an ID of just .152". The .035" wall is a little too big and .049" is going to be too small (ID wise). To get a snug fit with #8 rod you would need to find .044" wall 1/4" OD tube and I'm not sure it exists in stainless.

If I were building a set of 8-32 links with 1/4" tube I would probably use some epoxy or JB Weld on the threaded rod to fill the gap with the .180" ID tube. I would also consider drilling and tapping the .065" or .083" wall tube, but I have those tools on hand.

Information regarding the size of 10-24 threaded rod, specs are .190" diameter on #10 screws and rods. A 1/4" OD x .028" wall tube has an ID of .194". Much better fit, but slightly weaker tubing with the .028" wall and you may need different rod ends.

Also bare in mind that welded tube usually has a weld seam inside, this can make snug fitment a little difficult unless you're willing to drill or ream the tube first.

So beside using epoxy to fill in the gap between the all thread and tube's ID...
Utilizing 1/4" tube and full length all thread will be less then perfect
no matter how one slices it ?

Guess I was hoping someone had come up with near perfect fitment,
and could share what they utilized for that ?

Was looking at 1/4" SS (smooth) .035" wall thickness
leaving 0.18" (4.572mm) as the tube's ID
So epoxy would be necessary to fill that void ?

meh... think I'm just confusing myself further.
as there is no correct fitment doing it this way
or folk are seemingly not concerned with any real accuracy ?

So the smarter solution would be for me to invest in a tap
and use a thicker wall 1/4" SS tube (or larger diameter),
threading only the ends to 4mm for the Revo grub screws ?

That or find someone whom can cut/drill/tap those for me ?

Thanks for your help in trying to minimize my confusion.

[0100]

Do you guys suggest stainless threaded rod and stainless tubing?

The reason I ask is because I have heard it can be soft. DIY links -- rod ends?

I was going to go 8-32 stainless threaded rod but is steel rod better?

and my choices of tubing are:

1/4" Aluminum .035" wall Max psi 2500
1/4" Stainless .028" wall Max psi 3700
1/4" Stainless .035" wall Max psi 4300

This is for a monster truck so just hitting big jumps not crawling. I would like to keep weight down but at the same time keep it strong, but don't want to go carbon tubing.

Looking at this online calculator https://www.industrialmetalsupply.com/Weight-Calculator

It looks like an aluminum 12" x 1/4" rod is 0.0596 lbs
and a stainless 12" x 1/4" rod is 0.1687 lbs

So I am thinking I can go with the 1/4" Stainless .028" tubing to save weight and still be stronger than the Aluminum .035" tubing. Probably still be heavier than Aluminum.

{edit}
Ok so this is what is listed on McMaster

Threaded Rod:

Low Strength Steel Tensile 53,000 psi Rockwell B61
Medium Strength Steel Tensile 125,000 psi Rockwell C35
High Strength Steel Tensile 150,000 psi Rockwell C33
Stainless Steel Tensile 70,000 psi Rockwell B70
Titanium $$$$ Tensile 50,000 psi Rockwell B80
Aluminum Tensile 42,000 psi Rockwell B40



So after doing some research I thinking I am going to go 1/4" x .028" Stainless Tubing with Medium Strength Steel threaded rod.

[TacoCrawler]

...I gave up on this notion
too many inconsistency's regarding fitment/tolerances.
= PITA IMO

So I pony'd up for some HardcoreRc
custom built/length 1/4" Dia. solid titanium links
with Revo 5347 hollow/steel ball ends instead.

^ hardcorerc's Stage 1 kit (high clearance 3/16" ti links)
Titanium Mike offers great customer service/satisfaction
and will do custom orders for a little more $

hardcorerc.net (if a look see garners any interest)

^ not referred to as a Stage 1 kit on the website...
but it is here for the 3/16" Ti kit.

Gonna be installed on a Wraith drive train/axles...
but not yer standard Wraith build.
Instead... a custom built 1/6 scale tj Jeep with a 15.5" WB

Bet everything else will break before these do.

Somewhat pricey... but worth it if bashing is yer game.

----------------

If going with the homebrew links...
go with SS or Ti tube.
will slide better and reduce the grind wear.

But realize thread-all isn't all that strong...
so if the OD fit inside the tube isn't precise...
then a bend or break might find you wishing your money
and time spent were used more wisely

[nqSupes]

Very informative thread! I'm still confused about something though. I'd like to convert my wife's Sawback to 4-link, how do I determine the eye to eye lengths since there are no existing links to measure? Thanks!

[Eric0424]

Originally Posted by nqSupes

Very informative thread! I'm still confused about something though. I'd like to convert my wife's Sawback to 4-link, how do I determine the eye to eye lengths since there are no existing links to measure? Thanks!

First you have to decide where you're going to attach the links on the chassis/frame and axle. Then you measure the distance between the chassis/frame and axle mounting points.

[Cavedave_185]

Can some one simplify my life a slight bit. I built my first wraith this week and am looking for the do it your self stuff. I would like to make some links. Links out of all thread and stainless steal tube. What size tube should I look for ? What size all thread? I understand the links I need are the traxxas as mention a bunch of times.

Other question? You can only make straight links with this method correct?


Keeping the early morning rolling, the afternoon hours snoring, the late night hours feeling the powers.

[Ant Chaser]

Mc Master-carr

1/4" o.d. s,s, tubing i.d. .180
# 8 s.s. all thread o.d. .164
.016 space remaining
That's .008 space around the all thread rod

If you do not want to buy a long rod they have all threaded studs
of varying lengths. ie. 5" long 10 per package etc.

I'm sure other co.'s have similar products

[onebigyota]

How are you still taping them out. I tap mine I'm not sure if they are the traxxas 5347 ends or but they seem to be very then when I taped the to 8/32

[nsg1rc]

Looking at making a set of upper and lower links for my scx10. Was thinking about getting 4mm solid TI rod stock. (Cut,thread and done)Do you think that it will be to small? Or should I go with 3/16 approx. 4.75mm. What would you suggest?

[Kaler]

I went with 3/16 steel rod, threaded the ends down to 3mm with stock axial rod ends. Plenty strong.

[rude_k9]

Tom G nice bender. built one like it and have hard time bending 2 ti rods at same time. the grade 5 bolt wants to bend. can do one at a time no problem.

[Midcoast crawler]

Ok, I need a little help. I went through this whole thread and didn't find a lot about solid stainless steel rod. Is there a reason people don't use it, weight, strength?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Midcoast crawler

Ok, I need a little help. I went through this whole thread and didn't find a lot about solid stainless steel rod. Is there a reason people don't use it, weight, strength?

It's harder to work with.

[JRapid]

I've been searching for some threaded pivot balls with no luck (just the ball). Do those exist? I need some to fit normal traxxas rod ends for a sway bar setup.

Anyone know where I can get some?