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Old 11-22-2011, 09:19 AM   #1
Quarry Creeper
 
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Default How To: Make your own links

Hey guys, was looking at vanquish, and ordered some parts for my wraith. the thing i was wondering is making my own links for my scx10's.

just want to confirm some info with the ppl who have done it. so it takes:

3/16 rod
10-24 die
traxxas part number 5347 revo rod ends.


that sound about right? thanks, just want to confirm before i buy anything, as ive searched and found a few different options.

will be making upper and lower links for both my scx10's, and steering links for my scx10 and my wraith.

i need to save as much money as i can! i have all the tools to do this kind of work, its just my first time giving it a go.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:41 AM   #2
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u can use derlin rod its super easy and can get all ur bends with a little heat. or try ur hand at sum ti links but id highly suggest a vise and a map gas tourch to get the bends u want with little effort. its really up to u what u can afford and feel cofident working with. either way is a good route
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:57 AM   #3
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I have used 8/32 all thread with the revo rod ends covered in macro line for a paintball gun. With the 8/32 you don't have to tap out your rod ends first just screw em in.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:00 AM   #4
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I used 8-32 all thread with 1/4 stainless steel tubing to sleeve it once I got the right lengths, you can also use 1/4 brake line but the stainless steel slides on the rocks better. I used revo rod ends part # 5347 and used an 8-32 tap to thread them. Super strong, havn't broken one yet. I built upper and lower links, and the whole steering assembly for my scx10 and my wraith.

Very simple. Very strong.

Follow this:
http://www.scalebuildersguild.com/fo...ad.php?t=13579
It's probably found on this site too, I just know this one off hand.

Last edited by jhedsy; 11-22-2011 at 03:59 PM. Reason: Added web page.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:16 AM   #5
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i use the straight part of pail handles that are .144" and thread them 6-32 and use dubro rod ends.........bob

....
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:31 AM   #6
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i use 8/32 all thread, 1/4" aluminum tubing and traxxas rod ends just to confuse you some more!!! the materials i use come in 3ft lengths and are like 3-4 bucks. so i bought 3 lengths of tubing, about eight 1ft lengths of 8/32 all thread and 24 rod ends.. you'll use roughly 3ft of tubing and 3ft of all thread for each crawler. thats 4 linked rear and the 2 lower links on the front.


there's so many ways of making links its ridicolus. so write down all the possible materials from this thread onto a piece of paper take it into a store and buy what you can find.
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Old 11-22-2011, 11:33 AM   #7
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I had the threaded rod setup on my scx10 with brake line, but it snapped on me. Im going to run 3/16 rod, die it so it threads in to the revo ends, and cann it a day. just wanted to double check those numbers made sense. when running 400 oz-in, i need something that wont break. threaded rod bent like rubber.

gonna try and find some rod, and go from there.

i have derlin for my esc mounting plate, but id never use it for links. id twist it in seconds.
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Old 11-22-2011, 12:33 PM   #8
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hmmm interesting. i've pounded my steering link against rocks and never had a problem.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:15 PM   #9
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Here is my take on the links. Its a 1.9 scaler that weighs 7.5 pounds.

My original links were 6/32 all thread with a 3/16 aluminum tube as a sleve. They bent the first time out.


My new links will require some new materials.

Material List
6/32 all thread
6/32 tap
3/16 brake line
Traxxas #2742 Rod Ends
Tube cutter

First I had to figure the length of my all thread pieces. Figured out how deep I ran my tap and also how deep the rod end would thread. Together I came to 18mm. I cut mine with a Dremel disc.


Cut your tube to length (make sure to consider your rod end lengths). Run your tap in both ends.

Take your rod end and run the tap into it as well. Thread your rod end onto your all thead and then into the tube. You need to be very precise on your tube lengths since you want these snug and tight to eliminate any slop.


Side by side example


On the rig



Did my steering too while I was at it.


I havent bent the new links running yet. I do have to say that all my links are short. I have even hit the tierod hard and it hasnt bent yet.
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Old 11-22-2011, 02:49 PM   #10
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One good smack and you'll be sure to bend that steering link. Brake line bends to easy.
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Old 11-22-2011, 03:11 PM   #11
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im not talking about bending the tubing, im talking about bending the all thread. my alum tubing is beat to shit but i pulled it apart cut a piece of 1/4" all thread slowly tapped it through the tube with a hammer about an inch, pulled it out and repeated the process... straightens out the tube pretty good!!!!

edit: damn dont have a good picture showing my tie-rod link. i'll get one though.

Last edited by AX10wannabe; 11-22-2011 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:15 PM   #12
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my scx10 had the all thread and brake line at the websters meet. tumble down the big hill and it snapped it like a pencil.

got a tap and die set i can use... now for rod and a revo end set.
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Old 11-22-2011, 09:50 PM   #13
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I've been using 1/4" Solid Alum and using a drill bushing That I made on the lathe to center my taps for 3mm All Thread.

Now I have 5/16" Solid Delrin and not sure if I like the Alum or the Delrin.
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Old 11-22-2011, 10:59 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OntarioCrawler View Post
my scx10 had the all thread and brake line at the websters meet. tumble down the big hill and it snapped it like a pencil.

got a tap and die set i can use... now for rod and a revo end set.
Was your "allthread" running all th way though the brake line? Or was it tapped into each end? Cause I can see that snapping.
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Old 11-23-2011, 01:12 AM   #15
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use 8/32 not 6/32.

this is 8/32 with stainless sleeving compared to stock links


When I wanted to put a bend in a steering link I had to use a hydraulic jack against the frame of my real 1:1 truck in order to bend it.
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Old 11-23-2011, 06:13 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhedsy View Post
Was your "allthread" running all th way though the brake line? Or was it tapped into each end? Cause I can see that snapping.
all the way through.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:20 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhedsy View Post
I used 8-32 all thread with 1/4 stainless steel tubing to sleeve it once I got the right lengths, you can also use 1/4 brake line but the stainless steel slides on the rocks better. I used revo rod ends part # 5347 and used an 8-32 tap to thread them. Super strong, havn't broken one yet. I built upper and lower links, and the whole steering assembly for my scx10 and my wraith.

Very simple. Very strong.

Follow this:
How to - making your own links - THE SCALE BUILDER'S GUILD - Presented by JOWETT'S KUSTOM RC
It's probably found on this site too, I just know this one off hand.
This is my preferred method as well, but I like Jato rod ends for the longer engagement of the threads.

I do run Delrin lower links on my SCX, but don't do it with anything smaller than 5/16". I have 5/16" and have bent lower links in binds before.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:25 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Propane View Post
On the rig

Just curious, but have you run this truck for very long? I was wondering how strong those lower link mounts on the axle are, with the rod end just being bolted to one tab. Since you are on the insides of both tabs, wouldn't it be stronger if you ran the bolt through both, and used a spacer to take up the space where the shock used to be?
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:33 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C*H*U*D View Post
Just curious, but have you run this truck for very long? I was wondering how strong those lower link mounts on the axle are, with the rod end just being bolted to one tab. Since you are on the insides of both tabs, wouldn't it be stronger if you ran the bolt through both, and used a spacer to take up the space where the shock used to be?
Not like that. Those are mock up pics. Easy to move from inside to outside to get a slightly better pinion angle without making new links. I put a spacer in and run a bolt all the way through both mounts once I got it set.

Mud Puppy- I would use the 8/32 but it makes all my links look way too oversized. This is not a KOH rig or TTC rig. I built it to match what would be a daily driver/trail rig. My next project will represent a TTC tube style jeep. Everything will beef up. At that point the 8/32 will fit right in.

More food for thought.
In a bad tumble or bind something will always be a weak link. Not saying it has to actually be weak but things will always break or give. I dont mind broken links because you can make multiples and have them ready to swap out on the trail. But if you break an axle mount.....your day is toast. Or say a steering knuckle? Its just my thinking. Same reason in my drivetrain I leave my driveshafts to snap first. Saves big money and time. Just my opinion.

Last edited by Propane; 11-23-2011 at 12:35 PM.
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Old 11-23-2011, 12:52 PM   #20
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i see what your saying Propane.. i swapped my plastic knuckles out for alum and kept the plastic ones as spares so i can swap out on the trail if i had to. but if i snap a c-hub im done for the day because they are plastic still and havent upgraded them yet.

i personally went the 8/32 route because i dont carry spare links with me on the trail. i've never bent the all thread...yet... but i've beat the shit out of the tubing.. not worried if i do because i take a piece of 1/4" all thread and hammer it through the tubing and it straightens it just fine.

Last edited by AX10wannabe; 11-23-2011 at 12:55 PM.
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