Help!!! Dimensions are off!!!

[liketocrawl]

Well I just decided to set myself up with a MAPP torch and all of the stuff to start making my own things. I decided on starting on something simple. So I am attempting to make a canopy for my Unimog. Now this is where I thought I was good at math, but I guess I was wrong. Lol... Anyway I bought a tube bender from harbor freight and I just wanted to start to make the bends for the canopy. I figure I can just bend out one piece to start the frame. I want it 2/34x6in. Anyway I went through almost 1 three foot piece of brake line and still can't get it right!! Can someone please help me on just getting this simple bend right!!! I really don't want to waste money trying to guess this. Just a simple 90 degree bend!!! How far do I need to start the bend in order for it to fit. I gotta laugh, I'm thinking to myself this is going to be a piece of cake! Man was I wrong

[CREEPERBOB]

I guess you could start with a little extra on the end, get your bend and then trim the excess.

[liketocrawl]

The height i'm not worried about it's the length including the bend.

[CREEPERBOB]

I don't know what kind of bender you have , but this type has markings on it to get differant angles .

[SMR 510RR]

Check out this link:
Pirate4x4.Com

Its a very simple way to do 2d tube bends and be very close on dimensions.

1. Basically you bend a 90* test bend, mark the start and end of the bend.
2. Then you layout exactly what you want on a piece of paper, make sure to draw the outside edge of the structure.
3. Now lay your template on each bend and draw the radius using the test piece and mark the start point and end point of the bend.
4. Place your tube down where you want the end to be, mark the start of the bend.
5. Bend it little by little until it follows the template perfectly.
6. Keep working your way through the piece until you have it all bent up.
7. Move on to the next piece.

Also, note that if you work with different tubing or solid rod you should bend a test piece for every type material.

It will take some time you get it down, sometimes you will have to be careful to make sure you bend in a certain order or else you will have problems getting the tubing in the bender.

Also, if you are working with a hoop or something that is symmetric it is best to start from the center and bend outward.

Good luck!

[liketocrawl]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

Check out this link:
Pirate4x4.Com

Its a very simple way to do 2d tube bends and be very close on dimensions.

1. Basically you bend a 90* test bend, mark the start and end of the bend.
2. Then you layout exactly what you want on a piece of paper, make sure to draw the outside edge of the structure.
3. Now lay your template on each bend and draw the radius using the test piece and mark the start point and end point of the bend.
4. Place your tube down where you want the end to be, mark the start of the bend.
5. Bend it little by little until it follows the template perfectly.
6. Keep working your way through the piece until you have it all bent up.
7. Move on to the next piece.

Also, note that if you work with different tubing or solid rod you should bend a test piece for every type material.

It will take some time you get it down, sometimes you will have to be careful to make sure you bend in a certain order or else you will have problems getting the tubing in the bender.

Also, if you are working with a hoop or something that is symmetric it is best to start from the center and bend outward.

Good luck!

Very much appreciated thank you! For my bend it had a 5/8 gap between the outside to the end of the bend. Got it all sorted. I did however make a template. So much easier.

[liketocrawl]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

I don't know what kind of bender you have , but this type has markings on it to get differant angles .

That looks so much easier to use than mine. Mine is blue with just 3 indicators on it. Bought it from Harbor Freight for 4 bucks. Thanks

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

1. Basically you bend a 90* test bend, mark the start and end of the bend.
2. Then you layout exactly what you want on a piece of paper, make sure to draw the outside edge of the structure.
3. Now lay your template on each bend and draw the radius using the test piece and mark the start point and end point of the bend.
4. Place your tube down where you want the end to be, mark the start of the bend.
5. Bend it little by little until it follows the template perfectly.
6. Keep working your way through the piece until you have it all bent up.
7. Move on to the next piece.

I would add that if you don't have a bender with markings on it, you should add them yourself.

Once you bend and mark your test piece, put it back in the bender and transfer the marks onto the tool. I usually mark it with a Sharpie, then hit it with a center punch to make it permanent.

[C*H*U*D]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I would add that if you don't have a bender with markings on it, you should add them yourself.

Once you bend and mark your test piece, put it back in the bender and transfer the marks onto the tool. I usually mark it with a Sharpie, then hit it with a center punch to make it permanent.

I do the same even though my bender has markings. Sometimes the exact angle isn't as important as making them all consistent, and that's where making your own marks comes in handy.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I do the same even though my bender has markings. Sometimes the exact angle isn't as important as making them all consistent, and that's where making your own marks comes in handy.

Yup. If your starting point isn't right, there isn't much you can do to correct it later on.

[SMR 510RR]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

I would add that if you don't have a bender with markings on it, you should add them yourself.

Once you bend and mark your test piece, put it back in the bender and transfer the marks onto the tool. I usually mark it with a Sharpie, then hit it with a center punch to make it permanent.

Originally Posted by C*H*U*D

I do the same even though my bender has markings. Sometimes the exact angle isn't as important as making them all consistent, and that's where making your own marks comes in handy.

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Yup. If your starting point isn't right, there isn't much you can do to correct it later on.

I agree, every bender is different and will bend differently on every material. The markings are only accurate to a point, we all have to remember these benders are made to bend brake line under a vehicle where being off 1/8-1/4" isnt really a problem.

Even in that link I posted they had to remark their full sized die.

As far as benders go, these are the two I have and they are very good.

Rigid Bender:
Amazon.com: Ridgid 36117 Level Tubing Bender: Home Improvement

Imperial 3/16 bender:
Amazon.com: SEPTLS389364FH03 - 364-FHA Lever Type Tube Benders: Home Improvement
The picture isnt accurate in that one.

They are both good, the rigid is super tough and is nice because no matter what the handle doesnt get in the way. The Imperial is nice because the radius is really small, great for things like stingers where you need the small radius. The problem with it is that the handle gets in the way if you dont plan well and sometimes it is unavoidable.

Both of these bend much tighter than the standard brake line benders that have been posted so far.

[dstrbd1]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

Check out this link:
Pirate4x4.Com

Its a very simple way to do 2d tube bends and be very close on dimensions.

1. Basically you bend a 90* test bend, mark the start and end of the bend.
2. Then you layout exactly what you want on a piece of paper, make sure to draw the outside edge of the structure.
3. Now lay your template on each bend and draw the radius using the test piece and mark the start point and end point of the bend.
4. Place your tube down where you want the end to be, mark the start of the bend.
5. Bend it little by little until it follows the template perfectly.
6. Keep working your way through the piece until you have it all bent up.
7. Move on to the next piece.

Also, note that if you work with different tubing or solid rod you should bend a test piece for every type material.

It will take some time you get it down, sometimes you will have to be careful to make sure you bend in a certain order or else you will have problems getting the tubing in the bender.

Also, if you are working with a hoop or something that is symmetric it is best to start from the center and bend outward.

Good luck!

I have been using this method for years to bend tubing for fullsize fabrication. It works great and it can be applied to any bender. To make things even easier during fabrication I bent a couple different angles and marked them. This method is simple and works great.

[bob1961]

i bet you would go insane with my bender then....



notice the sharpie marks all over the work plate ....i had many store bought benders that just couldn't get the job i needed to do done....don't know if ya seen "my tube bender" thread and what i built with it like my "tigress" crawler....but here are two roll bar cages i made with this bender for my scaler in my "TT build thread" ....



like others have said when making something that needs to be symmetrical like the rear of my cabs roll cage, then you need to work from the middle outwards....my tigress's main tube that runs from front to rear was made out of one piece of tube....i started out with the round nose as the center point and worked backwards till i was done bending....trial and error is the best teacher .........bob

....

[liketocrawl]

Thanks for all the help guys. After all is said I can sense that a lot of trial and error comes before you can get things right. This site has been a huge inspiration for me to start building. You guys have great skill and your builds are awesome.

[liketocrawl]

Originally Posted by bob1961

i bet you would go insane with my bender then....



notice the sharpie marks all over the work plate ....i had many store bought benders that just couldn't get the job i needed to do done....don't know if ya seen "my tube bender" thread and what i built with it like my "tigress" crawler....but here are two roll bar cages i made with this bender for my scaler in my "TT build thread" ....



like others have said when making something that needs to be symmetrical like the rear of my cabs roll cage, then you need to work from the middle outwards....my tigress's main tube that runs from front to rear was made out of one piece of tube....i started out with the round nose as the center point and worked backwards till i was done bending....trial and error is the best teacher .........bob

....

I wouldn't even know where to begin with something like this.

[liketocrawl]

Two more things. Is this a good deal?
Stay-Silv 56 Brazing Kit-56KPOP at The Home Depot

and what kind of bit do I need to thread the inside of 3/16 brake line?

[liketocrawl]

Is this a good item to have in your work shop?
Mini Lathe - 7" x 10" Precision Mini Lathe

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by liketocrawl

Two more things. Is this a good deal?
Stay-Silv 56 Brazing Kit-56KPOP at The Home Depot



and what kind of bit do I need to thread the inside of 3/16 brake line?

That's not too bad.

IIRC its a #8 tap.

Originally Posted by liketocrawl

Is this a good item to have in your work shop?
Mini Lathe - 7" x 10" Precision Mini Lathe

If you think you'll use it quite a bit. I know I would use it from time to time but not enough to justify the cost.

[SMR 510RR]

Originally Posted by liketocrawl

Two more things. Is this a good deal?
Stay-Silv 56 Brazing Kit-56KPOP at The Home Depot

and what kind of bit do I need to thread the inside of 3/16 brake line?

What are you going to thread to the brake line? I dont think there is enough wall to really get anything too strong in there. If you are just trying to attach it to something else just braze a 3mm nut on the end.

[bob1961]

i have threaded 6-32 into 3/16" brake line and when i went to do it again with new brake line the 6-32 screw just slide inside the 3/16" tube....i had to go to 4mm in the newer 3/16" with good bite........bob

....