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Old 12-10-2011, 01:36 PM   #1
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Default How-to: DIY Strip heater for bending plastics

I've been experimenting with bending plastics lately and thought I'd share my findings. I needed to find a way to bend polycarbonate sheet in a controlled way that would result in a nice finish also.

This simple strip heater makes it easy to bend plastics between 0-3mm. I haven't tried anything thicker yet. The strip heater is simply a 1mm thick steel wire that is heated up by connecting a 2S Lipo to it. I've placed pieces of aluminum L-profile close to the hot wire so that the heat is directed upwards and is concentrated in a narrow strip. This makes it easy to accurately heat up the plastic along the line you want to bend. It takes around one minute to heat up a 2mm piece of lexan so that it is ready to be bent.









Here are some parts that I've used the strip heater for.

Two different battery/electronic trays for the XR10:







A servo guard:




And here's a short demo of the bending process (sorry, I'm explaining a few things in Finnish). But you'll get the idea .

DIY Strip Heater - YouTube

Last edited by Tomy; 12-10-2011 at 01:43 PM.
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Old 12-10-2011, 02:05 PM   #2
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great job, not to hard to understand what you are doing in the vid
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:04 PM   #3
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Nice DIY job.

Lexan is actually decent for cold bending with a sheet metal brake. Plain old polycarbonite will usually crack unless heated.

For those that are wondering, the spring is attached to keep tension on the heating element when it heats up. As it heats, it grows in length. If tension is not kept, the wire can contact other bits, not a good thing.

We used to do similar for cutting foam cores for RC plane wings. Wood & metal frame ~4' long, .020" Nichrome wire across the frame and a power source. Let the Nichrome heat up and cut away.
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:28 PM   #4
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Simple and very effective!!!

I was wondering about using another power supply. I have more car battery chargers the Lipo batteries!

Last edited by JKMotorsports; 12-10-2011 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 12-10-2011, 06:46 PM   #5
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awsome never thought of doing something like this before
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Old 12-10-2011, 07:10 PM   #6
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Do you just have the positive going to one side and the negative going to the other?
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:00 PM   #7
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Do you just have the positive going to one side and the negative going to the other?


Yes, I do.
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Old 12-10-2011, 08:10 PM   #8
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Simple and very effective!!!

I was wondering about using another power supply. I have more car battery chargers the Lipo batteries!
I tried to use a 230V /12V 8A car battery charger but it didnt work. I have no idea what the amp draw is for the hot wire. Could it be that the plain steel wire draws to much amperage than the car battery charger can deliver? Nichrome wire would be the proper wire for this job but I didn't have that so I just used what I could find. I'm sure someone witk more knowledge about electronics can develop this further.
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:16 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Charlie-III View Post
Lexan is actually decent for cold bending with a sheet metal brake. Plain old polycarbonite will usually crack unless heated.
Incorrect, Lexan is just a trademark name for sheet formed Polycarbonate thermoplastics. None of the Polycarb line like cold bends in thicker plastics (typically over 0.040"), be it Lexan, Makrolon or any others.

The clear plastic that cold bends, is PETG, which is not a Polycarb, but similar in properties often makes people confuse them.

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Nichrome wire would be the proper wire for this job but I didn't have that so I just used what I could find. I'm sure someone witk more knowledge about electronics can develop this further.
Guitar strings...
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Old 12-10-2011, 09:41 PM   #10
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Incorrect, Lexan is just a trademark name for sheet formed Polycarbonate thermoplastics. None of the Polycarb line like cold bends in thicker plastics (typically over 0.040"), be it Lexan, Makrolon or any others.

The clear plastic that cold bends, is PETG, which is not a Polycarb, but similar in properties often makes people confuse them.
Hmmm.......so I guess I never did make a few hundred machine covers/guards out of 1/8" Lexan cold bent on a sheet metal brake.
You just have to remember to set the backset on the clamp bar to allow for the material thickness (compared to sheet metal).
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Old 12-11-2011, 12:49 PM   #11
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That is a very useful idea and a very cool tool! What kind of wire did you use for the element? Would you recommend that or is there something better to use? Also, does a Lipo have to be used? Could this damage it? Could any other battery type be used (ie: NiCd, or NiMH)? Thanks for posting the video!

Last edited by DiggyStyle; 12-11-2011 at 12:51 PM.
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Old 12-11-2011, 01:05 PM   #12
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Nice job. I've used stainless safety wire with decent results. Alot of the airplane guys have used a model train power supply with good results. You can vary the input to control your heat.
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Old 12-11-2011, 03:07 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by DiggyStyle View Post
That is a very useful idea and a very cool tool! What kind of wire did you use for the element? Would you recommend that or is there something better to use? Also, does a Lipo have to be used? Could this damage it? Could any other battery type be used (ie: NiCd, or NiMH)? Thanks for posting the video!
DiggyStyle, I wish I knew the answers to your questions. I know very little about electronics.

The wire I'm using is just cheap 1mm thick steel wire you can find at a hardware store. The right choice would be Nichrome wire. It probably has a higher resistance than the steel wire I'm using and should therefore have a lower amp draw.

I used a very old and tired Nimh-pack for my first test as I wasn't sure if the plain steel wire would work. The Nimh got a little warm and wouldn't last too long. The 2S 4000mAh 20C lipo doesn't get warm at all and should last for at least 20 minutes of continuous use.

I'll try to get my hands on some proper Nichrome wire and report how that works. One guy on a Finnish forum told he's using 0,8mm Nichrome wire for his foam hot wire cutter wich draws approximately 3,5A. I've got a 6/12V 8A 1:1 car battery charger I was hoping I could use. But with the way the heater is setup now, it looks as if the amp draw is still too high for the car battery charger. I'm hoping the use of Nichrome wire will drop the amp draw down to a level the car battery charger can handle.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DiggyStyle View Post
That is a very useful idea and a very cool tool! What kind of wire did you use for the element? Would you recommend that or is there something better to use? Also, does a LiPO have to be used? Could this damage it? Could any other battery type be used (IE: NiCD, or NiMH)? Thanks for posting the video!
Nichrome wire is the material of choice, but obviously other wires will work.
As to a power supply, pretty much any DC source will work. A variable voltage supply it best so you can vary the heat. It also means the wire element will last longer (basically you are making an incandescent light bulb, they only last in a vacuum.....). The DC supply just needs to provide enough amps. You are likely looking at a 10A minimum, 20A+ (adjustable voltage is better) is preferred. You could always hook it up to a small car battery with a charger also hooked up to the battery.
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Old 12-11-2011, 07:49 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nabil View Post
Do you just have the positive going to one side and the negative going to the other?
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Yes, I do.
How does it just not destroy the battery?
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:21 PM   #16
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I have various heater wires in all kinds of guages and even flat as I work in the textile area and have fabric cutting machines and plastic film welders.

I'm going to give some a try tomorrow and see what results.
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Old 12-11-2011, 08:46 PM   #17
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How does it just not destroy the battery?
Like Charlie said, you are creating a light bulb. Connecting a lamp to a battery won't destroy it either. That is because the energy coming from the plus pole is consumed and transferred into light and heat in the light bulb. Not to short the battery, you need to have a load between the + and - pole. A wire with enough resistance is a load.

I did some research and found that the steel wire I'm using should only have 1/7 of the resistance of Nichrome wire. Less resistance means you are closer to short the system and the amp draw will be higher. The use of Nichrome wire should improve things a lot.

Last edited by Tomy; 12-11-2011 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 12-11-2011, 09:28 PM   #18
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Like Charlie said, you are creating a light bulb. Connecting a lamp to a battery won't destroy it either. That is because the energy coming from the plus pole is consumed and transferred into light and heat in the light bulb. Not to short the battery, you need to have a load between the + and - pole. A wire with enough resistance is a load.

I did some research and found that the steel wire I'm using should only have 1/7 of the resistance of Nichrome wire. Less resistance means you are closer to short the system and the amp draw will be higher. The use of Nichrome wire should improve things a lot.
Just don't use a short piece of ANY wire......then you WILL damage the battery/power supply since it will be a dead short.

As Tomy & I stated, Nichrome is the best bet.
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Old 12-11-2011, 10:40 PM   #19
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Nice setup you got there! Simple but effective.

Im personally not balzy enough to use a lipo when I power my hot-wire setups but hey your gamble . Most hot-wire setups use a light bulb to help bleed off excess power safely when they are being used in conjunction with a power supply. Not a bad idea with a battery either.
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Old 12-11-2011, 11:53 PM   #20
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Most hot-wire setups use a light bulb to help bleed off excess power safely when they are being used in conjunction with a power supply. Not a bad idea with a battery either.
That makes sense! Why not add an integrated working light.
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