Machinists Corner

[CREEPERBOB]

There's probably a backlash adjustment for the worm gear too if there's any play in the hand wheel.

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Its missing both locks, new ones shouldn't be hard to make. I'll be going over it this weekend to see what's what and get it in shape.

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

There's probably a backlash adjustment for the worm gear too if there's any play in the hand wheel.

Very little play in the wheel. Not nearly enough to worry about.

Concerning the centering of parts...I need to come up with some sort of vice that I can clamp stuff into and then center it all on the table. I've brainstormed a few things, just need to come up with material to do it.

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by Duuuuuuuude

Very little play in the wheel. Not nearly enough to worry about.

Concerning the centering of parts...I need to come up with some sort of vice that I can clamp stuff into and then center it all on the table. I've brainstormed a few things, just need to come up with material to do it.

Nice find...... have fun with it.

I used to just put an offset dial indicator (can't remember the actual name) in the mill and spin it in the table center hole. That got the table centered.
Once a part is close to clamped up, use the same indicator to center it on the table before final clamping.

Ahhh....found something similar..... WESTWARD Test Indicator, 1 1/2 In Dia, 0.06In - Dial Indicators - 4KY12|4KY12 - Grainger Industrial Supply

[Duuuuuuuude]

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

Nice find...... have fun with it.

I used to just put an offset dial indicator (can't remember the actual name) in the mill and spin it in the table center hole. That got the table centered.
Once a part is close to clamped up, use the same indicator to center it on the table before final clamping.

Centering the table is easy. If I just want to clamp something down, that is easy too. I want to hold and center something too small or irregular for clamps.

[tobyjarett]

I found this and I am wondering if it would be worth buying? Wilton 3 Axis Tilting Vise — 2in. Jaw Width, Model# TLT/SP-50 | Drill Press Vises| Northern Tool + Equipment
at the moment I do not have a mini mill an was thinking this might help with my drill press.

[tobyjarett]

they have a 3", 4", 5" & 6" also just not sure which size would be best for the rc hobby. I am thinking 5" but just trying to get a little feed back if possible. thanks

[C*H*U*D]

What are looking to do? $300 is quite a bit to spend if you can't really use it to it's potential.

[mfawv]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

I just got one of these and working on getting it in optimal condition.


There are some videos on youtube.

that is CNC,BA..........

[KJ10]

Originally Posted by tobyjarett

I found this and I am wondering if it would be worth buying? Wilton 3 Axis Tilting Vise — 2in. Jaw Width, Model# TLT/SP-50 | Drill Press Vises| Northern Tool + Equipment
at the moment I do not have a mini mill an was thinking this might help with my drill press.

If you know how to use it, by all means, it's a nice enough tool for our hobby.

[PaulzOx]

Originally Posted by tobyjarett

I found this and I am wondering if it would be worth buying? Wilton 3 Axis Tilting Vise — 2in. Jaw Width, Model# TLT/SP-50 | Drill Press Vises| Northern Tool + Equipment
at the moment I do not have a mini mill an was thinking this might help with my drill press.

Don't get me wrong, that thing is sweet but $300+.
If you get proficient on your mill you can make one. Making tooling for my mills and lathe is one of the most rewarding things I use them for. With a mill the possibilities are endless. Just google bench top mill projects and you will be amazed at what people do with minimum tooling.


Paulzox

[stelerzman]

Originally Posted by mfawv

that is CNC,BA..........

Thanks, I can't wait to figure out how to use the Bobcad software I bought for it. I'm on my 4th computer and still have yet to make a single part.
Hopefully I'll get the time to watch the training videos and figure shit out.

[xsputnikx]

Have any of you guys ever tried out the 6 in 1 machines ??? I'm guessing at the cost they are very limited to what they can do ? I'm looking for a metal lathe to get started but don't have a ton to sink into one been watching craigslist but nothing yet

sent from old rotary phone using tapatalk

[sickcivic95]

Originally Posted by stelerzman

Thanks, I can't wait to figure out how to use the Bobcad software I bought for it. I'm on my 4th computer and still have yet to make a single part.
Hopefully I'll get the time to watch the training videos and figure shit out.

Which version did you get? I run bobcad at my shop and its a great program. We've been using it for a while now and the newer versions (24 or 25) are far better than the older stuff. The new interface with solidworks is awesome and we run it with the 4th axis programming and it works flawlessly so far!

The training vids are decent but you can find a lot more useful info on YouTube ESP if your just starting with it. Check out their page on there you won't regret it.

--Dan

[Slowkrawl]

So I haven't been around much, I bought my mill and lathe last december. The mill has hardly been touched, very limited knowledge with it and just not a lot of time for projects. The lathe has seen a bit more use, nothing crazy just making tools and bearing installers for working on my quad ect ect. I did just order some acetal to play with, nice and soft just to get my bearings on the mill, and play a bit more on the lathe.

My question is, once I have an endmill in the mill, what is the easy way to get it out? I know to loosen the nut/bolt on top and give it a few taps with the hammer but once I get the collet loose the endmill is still jammed in there. Even once the collet is out of the damn mill it seems to be a fight lol.

Edit: I see this thread has moved a lot since...Well, last december! Haha, hopefully we can change that...

[Duuuuuuuude]

Loosen the drawbar, tap it so there is no tension on it, then twist and pull the end mill out. Be careful that you don't cut yourself.

Make sure the end mills and collets (inside and out) are kept with a very light film of oil or wd40. This will keep rust away and make them easier to work with.

[Slowkrawl]

Drawbar...That's the term I was looking for but couldn't remember. You guys and your fancy projects, and here I am just trying to remember all the lingo LOL. Will do on the oiling, I'll have to give it another go tomorrow maybe. It's been a couple months since I used it last and I recall the endmill causing a few curse words trying to get it out.


Also, how would one go about centering the tailstock to the chuck on the lathe? I haven't touched the tailstock since I bought it and I assume it's not dead on..I want to be able to drill holes and such.

[CREEPERBOB]

There is usually some sort of alignment pin or set screw that keeps the collet from spinning, that is usually adjustable that can make the collet too tight, and if the coolet has been crushed at all it will be tight on the EM.

And as for the tailstock, if you have a center that fits the headstock taper slide it in and then put a live or dead center in the tailstock, slide the tailstock towards the chuck / headstock and align the two centers.

Originally Posted by Slowkrawl

Drawbar...That's the term I was looking for but couldn't remember. You guys and your fancy projects, and here I am just trying to remember all the lingo LOL. Will do on the oiling, I'll have to give it another go tomorrow maybe. It's been a couple months since I used it last and I recall the endmill causing a few curse words trying to get it out.


Also, how would one go about centering the tailstock to the chuck on the lathe? I haven't touched the tailstock since I bought it and I assume it's not dead on..I want to be able to drill holes and such.

[Slowkrawl]

I will have to pick up some centers, any advantage to live vs. dead? And I will have to pull the chuck right off if I am following you correctly right?

My mill doesn't have a lock or brake I guess was my main problem while trying to change endmills it is kind of a gamble to get the collet unthreaded. I can take pics if it would make more sense.

[Slowkrawl]

There used to be a set screw in the collet holder itself, but A: It wouldn't touch the collet to adjust how deep it went in the holder anyways, and B: you'd have to pull the holder right out of the mill every time you wanted to change collets. Or am I an idiot for thinking you can change endmills with the holder still in the machine?

[Duuuuuuuude]

Are you putting the endmill in a collet or in a solid endmill holder? They are two different things...