![]() | #421 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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News to me lol, I am using collets.
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![]() | #422 |
Suck it up! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Collet ![]() End Mill Holder ![]() |
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![]() | #423 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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![]() | #424 |
Suck it up! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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Shouldn't have too much trouble getting an endmill out of those. When the collet is loose, the endmill should be snug, but still removable.
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![]() | #425 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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Well then I am missing something. So far, I have had to pull the holder right out and then start world war 3 to get the endmill out and then the collet. They do have some assembly oil on them so it's not exactly metal on metal. Edit: I wonder if I am over tightening it when I put the endmill in? I usually give it a pretty good wrenchin' on because more tighter is more gooder, right? I'll have to try this again without going full retard on the wrench. |
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![]() | #426 |
Suck it up! ![]() Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Arkansas
Posts: 11,652
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They don't have to be super tight, just good and snug.
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![]() | #427 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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Hmm, that didn't work either. It's still ignorant to get the endmill out. Ah well, at least I am not doing something totally wrong like I thought I might be, I just have to figure out a system because this is going to drive me nuts.
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![]() | #428 | |
No idea what I'm doing Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Underground, CO
Posts: 4,529
| ![]() I'm just making a wild guess, but you aren't by any chance leaving your endmills in the machine for months at a time are you? Try removing them as soon as you are done. Quote:
Also, you could try using regular R8 collets. They aren't that expensive (less than $25 a piece), and you can probably get by with just a few of the more popular sizes at first, and building on your set as you need too. With an R8, your endmill will pop right out when you give the drawbar a tap. Last edited by C*H*U*D; 10-15-2013 at 08:31 AM. | |
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![]() | #429 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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Yes I had left the endmill in there for a few months, but even after pulling it out yesterday and putting a different one in and just snugging it up it's pretty much locked in there. I might look at getting some endmill holders, from what I have read once you get to around 3/4" they will start to pull out of a collet, but collets are better for smaller endmills. That's what I got out of it anyways. |
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![]() | #430 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Waterford
Posts: 266
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Check your coolant dirty coolant gets sticky and gummy Sent from my MB855 using Xparent BlueTapatalk 2 |
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![]() | #431 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: May 2009 Location: India
Posts: 365
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Anyone has used automobile engine oil to prevent tools and alloy steel from rusting? One worker in my shop applied Mobile 1 engine oil to a linear guide rail so that it would not rust during the rainy season. The outcome was suprising. The linear guide rail had some kind of reaction to the oil. It ruined its shiny surface with a lot of marks on it. I am guessing the oil reaction penetrated the rail upto 0.02 mm depth. Will post some pics tomorrow... |
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![]() | #432 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: 07456 N. NJ USofA
Posts: 8,314
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The collets you have work rather well as they tend to clamp well with less pressure than the 3 segment ones. I would clean your current ones off (the link discusses what Cosmoline is as well as ways to remove it), hit with at least WD-40 (Kroil makes a good spray-on coating) and use what you have. | |
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![]() | #433 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Illinois
Posts: 10
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Slowkrawl I used collets similar to yours at work check and see if the collet will snap into the nut before you put the collet in the body.The ones I used were single angle collets and they would snap into the nut first. Then you would install the nut/collet into the body them install the endmill. Only tighten hand tight you do not need to hammer on the wrench. Give that a try I hope it helps.
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![]() | #434 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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![]() | #435 | |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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Ok now that I can get endmills in and out of my mill...Time to start wrecking some endmills! | |
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![]() | #436 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Illinois
Posts: 10
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I'm glad it worked out for you. I seen you post asking about centers for your lathe. A dead center is the cheapest way to go. Just us some heavy grease on the tip before you insert it into the work piece. If you pick up a live center purchase a good one it will last alot longer then tbe cheaper ones.
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![]() | #437 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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That's handy info, I haven't priced it out yet. I do have a dead center for the tailstock already, for the headstock if I was following correctly I would need to put a center in it aswell? Would the chuck have to come off or am I totally off base?
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![]() | #438 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Illinois
Posts: 10
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Yes the chuck will have to come off. I have to go bavk and see what brand lathe you have. I myself have a Bridgeport in the garage and a 10" Atlas lathe in the basement. They are old but work for me.
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![]() | #439 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Illinois
Posts: 10
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Found your post with pics of the lathe and mill. Nice machines. I like the lathe with the quick change gearbox. I have to change the gears around to change the feed settings.
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![]() | #440 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Alberta canada
Posts: 386
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The lathe is just a little fella but should be big enough for anything I need to do. I'm going to go have a look at it right now, not sure what taper is in the headstock
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