Soldering batteries and esc'

[laxjj14]

I've soldered quite a bit and I still have a hard time getting a good clean solder. I'm looking to get some tips on what I might be doing wrong. It seems like on the esc's battery mounts the solder doesn't connect to the wire as it should. I'm using a welder soldering gun could it be that I need to up grade to something better?

[bob1961]

i used to use the pen and gun type soldering irons....when i went with a hakko soldering station where i can adjust temps/watt's i'll never go back....doing wires are you tinning them first....when i use my station i use bout 750 degree mark on it, what watt's that is i don't know....but i get things done fast with a hot setting........bob

....

[SINister]

Sounds like your not getting enough heat to get the solder to flow. 40 watts would be the minimum I would go with. I use a liquid flux and then tin both parts before making the connection.

[Joe&Jeep]

sounds like your not using flux to tin the wire and posts

[laxjj14]

Ok guess I don't really know what I'm doing I need to get some flux and I don't know what watts I'm running I just plug the soldering gun in and it heats up and I use it. I think I need to get a soldering station. What are some good stations out and around how much does it cost for one

[CreepyCrawl]

The two most important steps in soldering are to tin each surface before making the joint and to clean and re-tin your iron between each (two at the most is what I adhere to). A "dry" iron will simply wick the solder away from where you're trying to apply it. I personally find no need for Flux if you're using a good rosin core solder and a proper iron and tip.

As bob said, the Hakko 936 is a fantastic station for the money and running around 750 to 800 degrees setting depending on wire size and connection type is generally adequate. Soldering guns are not ideal for this hobby in my opinion.

Proper tip size is just as important and something to consider as well. You don't want to use a large chisel tip for replacing an antenna wire for instance, and likewise, using a pencil tip to solder a Deans on 10awg wire will end in failure since the tip can't hold/conduct enough heat for that type of job.

You should never find yourself trying to paint the solder on; with proper temp settings and approach the two components will simply melt into each other and you should get clean joints every time. With regard to tinning, it's simply a matter of heating the material with the shank of your iron and allowing the solder to flow freely on to the wire, plug tab or ESC post.

When you're finished with the job it's important to tin the iron tip before storage, otherwise it will oxidize and become difficult to tin as time goes on. If this happens though, you can clean it up with some sand paper or a Scotch Brite depending on the severity of its condition.

Having a jig, be it home brew or purchased, will help as well. Chasing a connector around on the bench while holding a screaming hot iron isn't much fun and will generally lead to something being melted that shouldn't be.

For what it's worth, these are my methods employed with Racers Edge rosin core solder and my Hakko 936 for the past four years and I've yet to have a joint fail.

Good luck and above all, have fun...soldering shouldn't be a chore

[SMR 510RR]

I agree with the above, get yourself a decent iron or if you plan on RCing for a while get a nice station. I have a hakko fx-888 I believe it is and it has made soldering anything so much easier and not a chore like it was before.

The basic steps are:

1. Strip any wires that need to be stripped
2. Clean the tip of your iron with a wet sponge
3. Tin the iron with a light coat of solder, this will help transfer heat efficiently
4. Tin both sides of the connection individually, for wires I like to place the wire in my 3d hand so they are parallel to the ground, then I place my iron on the underside of the wire and place the solder on top, once enough heat has transfered to the top the solder will melt and then just fill the end with solder
5. Use your 3rd hand to align the joint, with a clean and freshly tinned iron apply heat to the joint, in about 2-3 seconds the joint will liquify and flow together, add extra solder if you need to and pull the iron. The whole process should take about 10 seconds or less, any more and you risk damaging electrical components with too much heat.
6. Rinse and repeat

Tinning everything is really the key to getting good results, it is the one thing that will make all the difference.

[z50king]

The new Hakko fx888 sells on eBay for around 80 bucks. I have had mine for a while and I will never go back. My buddy that races offroad semi/pro borrows it to take to big races. Once you go Hakko, you'll never go backko.

You can heat up a wire all you want, but don't heat posts or through holes on ESCs too much. When I do ESC joints I always have a fan there to immediately blow onto the joint after I am finished with it. Posts like the Tekins have can take some more heat without damage due to their size and distance from the board

And of course you need the right tip. The fx888 comes with a very narrow chisel. It works well enough for me, just takes a couple seconds more to heat up something big like 12guage. It works great for through hole use.

The Hakko 936 and the 888 are great stations because nearly all of the power is directed to the tip and not wasted on the shank or shaft. They are also able to provide the tip with enough constant power to keep it at a steady temperature when heating large objects.

The items on eBay that look like the 936 models do not have the same internals as a real 936. They are crap knockoffs that do not work as well or as reliably as a real 936. I don't think the 888 has been copied yet.

I dont really use the sponge anymore, I prefer the brass meal

[Charlie-III]

A few great posts here.

Solder, you should be using a rosin core solder ~1/16" in diameter, do NOT use heavy plumbing solder (more like 3/16" and it won't have a flux agent in it).
When resoldering to something from the "factory", they may have used a lead-free solder. An example would be to reconnect the wires for an ESC switch. These solders can be a real PITA to get hot enough.

You are using a WELLER soldering gun (not a "welder"), it can work for motor connections, maybe pack connectors. It's harder to work in tight places though.
Most are also 2 heat ranges, pull the trigger a bit for low range and pull it all the way for the higher range.

I use a nice, but simple, 75watt soldering pencil. Someday I will get a nicer adjustable pencil.

[laxjj14]

Thanks for all the info and I messed up before it is a weller soldering iron not the gun. The iron I'm using Is the weller sp40l it has 40w and 120vac . Im using bernzomatic electrical rosin core solder from home depot. Tinning do you just use the soldering wire to do this or is there a product for this?

[bob1961]

while on the topic of tinning, i tried to tin some wire from an old car light socket i want to use as a battery discharger....it was real old from a 60's car, when i stripped the insulation off the wire one wire wouldn't tin....it was a socket for a 1157 bulb and the two positive wires i twisted and tinned just fine, the ground wire wouldn't take any solder....i was trying to put a deans plug on it....how does anyone tin in this situation....i'm asking here as it should help OP in his quest to be a better solderer........bob

....

[bob1961]

Originally Posted by laxjj14

Thanks for all the info and I messed up before it is a weller soldering iron not the gun. The iron I'm using Is the weller sp40l it has 40w and 120vac . Im using bernzomatic electrical rosin core solder from home depot. Tinning do you just use the soldering wire to do this or is there a product for this?

i use the solder to tin with rosin in it, i also use radio shack 60/40 on the big roll that is the smallest dia they sell.........bob

....

[z50king]

I use the 60/40 rosin core from Radio Shack in .032inch inch size. It's 12 dollars for 8 ounces, cheapest around!! We don't need silver solder for what we do. I would prefer 63/37 mix but Radio shack no has that

this is the station I use. It's the best for the price right now. Hakko fx888

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by bob1961

while on the topic of tinning, i tried to tin some wire from an old car light socket i want to use as a battery discharger....it was real old from a 60's car, when i stripped the insulation off the wire one wire wouldn't tin....it was a socket for a 1157 bulb and the two positive wires i twisted and tinned just fine, the ground wire wouldn't take any solder....i was trying to put a deans plug on it....how does anyone tin in this situation....i'm asking here as it should help OP in his quest to be a better solderer........bob

....

I would try some flux paste as used for sweat fitting copper plumbing stuff.
Old wire can have oxidation on it that prevents the solder from flowing/sticking.

[malekia]

Originally Posted by z50king

I would prefer 63/37 mix but Radio shack no has that

I didn't think they had it either, but I bought some the other day at my local RS.

Originally Posted by Charlie-III

You are using a WELLER soldering gun, it can work for motor connections, maybe pack connectors. It's harder to work in tight places though.
Most are also 2 heat ranges, pull the trigger a bit for low range and pull it all the way for the higher range.

You're absolutely right; I have a Weller soldering gun with great heat but it's very cumbersome to use.

[donhd04]

can i use this to quick solder a bec in? I have ordered a new soldering station and it won't be here till end of next week and I have a small comp sunday. Can this soldering iron be used as a temperary fix?
Soldering Iron - Harbor Freight Tools

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by donhd04

can i use this to quick solder a bec in? I have ordered a new soldering station and it won't be here till end of next week and I have a small comp sunday. Can this soldering iron be used as a temperary fix?
Soldering Iron - Harbor Freight Tools

A Bernz-O-Matic torch & some care can do what you need.

The linked iron will take time to heat, but it will work.

[Devil Inc]

I need to upgrade to something a bit better, currently using a 40-watt model from RadioShack and 60/40 rosin core solder. I find it the easiest to make sure you apply flux to the wire, the solder flows so much better. I;m not sure what everyone suggests for flux, but I've been using a gel-type substance I picked up from RadioShack with good results. I typically don't flux or tin my deans plugs, but I will "pre-heat" them with the iron first. So far, I haven't had any issues. "knock on wood"

[04zrx]

Do I really need to buy a $80 soldering station? Can I get a powerfull cheap iron from radio shack?

[Charlie-III]

Originally Posted by 04zrx

Do I really need to buy a $80 soldering station? Can I get a powerful cheap iron from Radio Shack?

Do you need it??, No.
But, if you try one, it's a great tool to have. I have a ~$60 digital readout, controllable one, it works very well.
I also have a couple of non-controllable pencil types that do "OK", but the newer one is a lot better.

I also have an old Weller high wattage gun for big stuff like packs, mostly when I build NiCD/NiMH packs.