adhesive for Delrin?

[ekd]

Is there anything that will glue this stuff to aluminum, CF, or other plastics?

TIA

[ROWDY RACING]

Shoe goo?

[ekd]

I'll try it. I'll post the results.

Any other ideas? It seems to me that if someone is at the point where replacing steel screws with Al makes a difference... maybe it's time to look into losing the screws altogether, whenever possible.

[Erin]

Search on google, "how to glue delrin" there is a ton of differing info. It seems if there are glues that will work, they are very expensive or very nasty to use.

[binaryterror]

Delrin is Acetal...it is a pain to glue to itself let alone to other materials.

ADHESIVES for DELRIN and ACETAL

[ekd]

Originally Posted by binaryterror

Delrin is Acetal...it is a pain to glue to itself let alone to other materials.

ADHESIVES for DELRIN and ACETAL

Great link... everything explained well. Thanks!

[JohnRobHolmes]

Scuff it up first with brillo or a stainless brush, get a good haze on the material. CAs as well as two part epoxies work well with some surface abrasion to grab on.

[Krawler23]

Originally Posted by ekd

I'll try it. I'll post the results.

Any other ideas? It seems to me that if someone is at the point where replacing steel screws with Al makes a difference... maybe it's time to look into losing the screws altogether, whenever possible.

The glue might weigh more than the screws though.

[Meatwad]

I've never had a prob gluing acetal to itself with shoe goo or 2 part epoxy. Of course I took a wire brush to it well though and/or scoring it.

[ekd]

Thanks, guys.

Turns out, if the time/temp are accurately controlled, you can also re-cast the stuff.

I laid 2 strips with a partial overlap, and baked it. Although there is visual evidence of the splice, it is only surface deep. These pieces are now 1 piece, and retained all the traits. There was no smell during all this.

It flows very slowly, so laminates can be made that vary in thicknesses, and have nice tapers between them.

I'm intrigued by this. I'll keep working with it, and post if there is any success.

[SMR 510RR]

I wouldnt heat it, it releases toxic fumes no doubt!

[JohnRobHolmes]

Looks like 200f is safe for molding with negligible shrinking, which would indicate outgassing of a polymer.

http://www.kmsbearings.com/pdf/Delri...gn%20Guide.pdf pg 47

[2-shot]

You can actually go up to around the 250f range with any acetal (delrin). I wouldn't go over that!

Acetals are gassy materials. When doing injection molding, you have to make sure your mold is well vented, and the vents stay clean. When the acetal is injected, the remaining air in the mold is forced out through the vents. Poor or dirty vents will keep the air in the mold from reaching atmosphere. This will cause a burn, or a "short" part.

If you are trying to adhere 2 pieces together, you want to get it hot enough for the molecular chain in the plastic to flow. Not hot enough, it will cause a "flow front", which will be too cool to adhere the each other. Just don't overheat!!

DO NOT heat or try to melt PVC and any Acetal together!!! PVC and Acetal heated together = BOOM!!!!

Sorry for the rambling... 12+ years in plastic injection molding. That's where my forum name comes from. I do 2 shot molding. Shoot a base resin while shooting a secondary (TPE - rubber) which adheres to the base resin. Plastic is my bread and butter.

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[ekd]

Originally Posted by SMR 510RR

I wouldnt heat it, it releases toxic fumes no doubt!

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

Looks like 200f is safe for molding with negligible shrinking, which would indicate outgassing of a polymer.

http://www.kmsbearings.com/pdf/Delri...gn%20Guide.pdf pg 47

Yup, just above the perfect temp, you get bubbles and the traits seem to change (got somewhat brittle) I can't get a good temp reading with my IR pistol, the hobby (toaster) oven reads out a half dozen temps... too drafty. Working on that... I bought PID controllers for both a HT oven, and a forming oven. I have the word out for an old school home oven, for the shop (this frozen pizza tastes funny). It seems best not to play with all this in the house.

Originally Posted by 2-shot

You can actually go up to around the 250f range with any acetal (delrin). I wouldn't go over that!

Acetals are gassy materials. When doing injection molding, you have to make sure your mold is well vented, and the vents stay clean. When the acetal is injected, the remaining air in the mold is forced out through the vents. Poor or dirty vents will keep the air in the mold from reaching atmosphere. This will cause a burn, or a "short" part.

If you are trying to adhere 2 pieces together, you want to get it hot enough for the molecular chain in the plastic to flow. Not hot enough, it will cause a "flow front", which will be too cool to adhere the each other. Just don't overheat!!

DO NOT heat or try to melt PVC and any Acetal together!!! PVC and Acetal heated together = BOOM!!!!

Sorry for the rambling... 12+ years in plastic injection molding. That's where my forum name comes from. I do 2 shot molding. Shoot a base resin while shooting a secondary (TPE - rubber) which adheres to the base resin. Plastic is my bread and butter.

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Well, your "rambling" is priceless info to me. Does drinking make you talkative? Can I get you something cold? 2-shot, eh? Makes sense... I thought you were bragging about an entirely different subject.

Appreciate this, guys. I have no amazing plan for all this, I just need to know more. Looks like you can't build a decent rig without it.

[2-shot]

Nope, definitely not bragging about anything. I definitely don't have a high profile job. I get really greasy, dirty and sweaty at work. Just trying to share some info that may help you - I tend to over share at times.

Nope, wasn't drinking when I replied the first time. Just tend to over explain things = ramble.

I've molded some delrins (acetal) - hate molding it.

Trust me, I'm not a plastics guru! Just have a little experience in the injection molding side of it, and molded a few different resins.

I'm just trying to help. Don't have a lot of experience in RC, so I'm usually not much help in that department.

I'm always willing to help where I can!

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[ekd]

Well, I'm one of those folks who sometimes needs, and always appreciates things being "over explained" by someone who knows their stuff.

Reading through John's link (thanks, man), and found out, on pg 54, that this stuff can be painted (even baked on auto finishes), dyed (Rit), and chrome plated. I must admit... after seeing countless bodiless rigs in black or white, I have to wonder if there is a dress code here?

[TwentyF4rth]

i have never had success in glueing delrin ..i have tried epoxy made for plastic it kinda works but problem is nothing sticks well to delrin

[2-shot]

You're probably going to have a better chance glueing pieces that are made from a hygroscopic material (nylon, ABS, polycarb - to name a few). Hygroscopic materials will draw moisture into the polymer chain. Hygroscopic materials need to be dried before molding or extruding. That's why scuffing the Delrin pieces with sandpaper or steel wool, will help adhere the pieces when glueing.

Delrin is also a crystalline material. Once Delrin hits it's melting point, the viscosity doesn't change the more heat you give it. As opposed to an amorphous material which will change viscosity the more heat you give it (ABS for an example). So, with Delrin, it's not going to flow any more or easier, if you get it hotter.

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