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Old 10-02-2006, 06:19 PM   #1
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Default Unknown metal, wont lathe with HSS

I have some "shaft" that I am turning down. The HSS bits I am sharpening just turn into mush against the material. It looks like a chromed shaft, but I think it is just a shiny steel. Maybe a high nickel content?

Any tips on ID'ing the material or getting a cut going? Heat it till to change the temper? Get some carbide cutters? I have browsed the manufacturing forum for quite a while now and cant seem to find the answers I look for.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:29 PM   #2
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Are you getting the bits excessively hot while sharpining them? that can make them soft. also you may want to adjust your rpm's abit? I only have limited Exp. on a lathe but ive learned a few things the hard way.
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Old 10-02-2006, 06:48 PM   #3
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I had the same problem clearancing a cross pin in a 1:1 diff. Went through several bits instantly. I figgured it was just the hard chrome like coating. I was right, ground through it with the 4". Then it was smooth saling with the machining.
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:36 PM   #4
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I'd switch to carbide... after using it once, I'll never go back- just seems to make life so much easier.
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Old 10-02-2006, 07:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaotic_life
I'd switch to carbide... after using it once, I'll never go back- just seems to make life so much easier.
I agree.

Sometimes carbide won't do it either. If that's the case, a grinder is the only way. As mentioned already, plating and heat treating can make metal extremely hard on the outside. Sometimes if you take a deep enough cut you can get into the softer material underneath. It might be possible to get it annealed (sp.), but you'd have to know exactly what kind of metal the shaft is made of.

What diameter shaft is it? How sharp is the H.S. bit? How many RPM's you turning?
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Old 10-03-2006, 10:25 AM   #6
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if its a shaft that is normaly used for linear roller bearings then the shaft is hardened ground and polished, they can also be chromed. either way its going to be in the 60-65RC in hardness. you will need carbide tools to get anywere with it.
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Old 10-03-2006, 11:51 AM   #7
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rpms, dont know. Tried it on high and low. I have an old logan lathe and it doesnt say the rpms of the different gears.

bits- as sharp as I can get em on my fine grinding wheel. Sharp enough to slice a finger easily. As soon as they touch the metal the cutting edge is literally deforming.

5mm shaft I am turning down to 3.17mm




I took it to the grinder, the metal is of consistant hardness and material. It looks like chrome all the way through. When it hits the grinder, the metal almost tears away. It doesnt leave a good finish at all on the grinder either.


I am going to try hardening the HSS bits once, and I am ordering up some carbide bits today. Seems like the only option at this point.
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Old 10-16-2006, 04:39 PM   #8
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Finally got this ****e turned down! It was a combination of tool overhang, work deflection, and improper tool material. These little shafts are flexy, and any more than 1cm of work overhang makes the tool chatter like morse code.

Still hard to get a consistant diameter, but I am going to try turning the shaft down in two sections or three instead of one. It should "fix" my problems. The Carbide still gets mucked up though. I cant afford one bit per shaft!
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrobholmes
Finally got this ****e turned down! It was a combination of tool overhang, work deflection, and improper tool material. These little shafts are flexy, and any more than 1cm of work overhang makes the tool chatter like morse code.

Still hard to get a consistant diameter, but I am going to try turning the shaft down in two sections or three instead of one. It should "fix" my problems. The Carbide still gets mucked up though. I cant afford one bit per shaft!
Toolpost grinder!
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Old 10-16-2006, 05:11 PM   #10
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got one, I used it to grind the flat spot for the pinion
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Old 10-18-2006, 12:29 PM   #11
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Just an update. As I machine the ferrous metal more and more, each cut seems to be cutting smoother. I have found that burying .010" of the bit into the metal and feeding the handcrank fast is the best bet for a smooth and quiet cut. Letting the bit sit in one spot work hardens the shaft and blunts the cutting edge very fast!
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:13 PM   #12
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When my buddy turned down the shaft in my MPJet motor,it dulled the bit fast also. He tried different speeds and different cutters as well. He said it worked as well and just as fast putting a small file in the tool rest and slowly filing it down. Don't know if it'll help,just tossin out ideas.
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Old 10-18-2006, 08:45 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnrobholmes
Just an update. As I machine the ferrous metal more and more, each cut seems to be cutting smoother. I have found that burying .010" of the bit into the metal and feeding the handcrank fast is the best bet for a smooth and quiet cut. Letting the bit sit in one spot work hardens the shaft and blunts the cutting edge very fast!
Sounds like the outside was hardened a little, and you're now into the softer material that I mentioned in my earlier post. That's cool you got it worked out.
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Old 10-18-2006, 11:34 PM   #14
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The hardness actually seems consistant all the way through the shaft. What I meant to say is "my lack of skill made the first cuts horrible, and each cut thereafter gets marginally better as I learn".
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Old 10-19-2006, 08:46 AM   #15
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Does this mean that we will soon hear how this new motor works?
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:32 PM   #16
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yep

New Outrunner Motors- Hyperion Z30's
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:39 PM   #17
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Yup... Didn't think to look in the motors forum for it before. Kept checking the vendors forum for updates on this :-P
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Old 10-19-2006, 12:48 PM   #18
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Before I post up the vendor thread, I want to make sure everything goes smooth and all the details are worked out.

Should be a few more business days, probably mid next week.
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Old 11-08-2006, 03:01 PM   #19
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One more update on this. Today I tried heating the shaft until cherry red and then letting it air cool. WOW! It machined so smooth, the finish is awesome, and my bits are lasting much longer now.

So, my assumption is that these are hardened steel shafts. They do cut as-is, but changing the temper really helped!
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Old 11-18-2006, 05:00 PM   #20
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So what you did is you anealed the metal. Which makes it softer. Be carful when using the rod after you are done anealing it because it will not be even close to as stong as it was before it was anealed.
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