RCCrawler Forums

Mnster · 10-03-2006, 12:38 AM

I need to drill through some Kyosho Twin Force diff output shafts so that I can install some revo driveshafts that don't pop off all the time. I've tried drilling through similar things before. But this is crazy, my 1/8" carbide milling bits just scratch it. Any tips, it needs to be done in order for the project to continue as set screws just don't work.

I know the basics, go slow, use lube. But, is there any insider tips? possibly will heat help?

superelmer · 10-03-2006, 02:12 AM

i was trying to get thru some stealth outdrives, and getting nowhere when i tried a dremel bit, and it went right through.
it was very similar to the second bit from the top of this page (just a random result of searching...)

http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/bur...remel_bits.htm

good luck!

Ace · 10-03-2006, 06:57 AM

If carbide won't cut it it's damn hard.

Could try anealing it with heat, but some steels are difficult to anneal. Would be worth a try.

Heat it (propane torch) till a magnet no longer sticks to it and let it cool very slowly. One way to do that is to put it in a fireplace and let the fire burn down overnight. It helps to wrap it in stainless steel foil to keep air away which will keep the scaling down.

I'd try a torch first. Pull the flame away slowly over several minutes, test it with a file to see if it softened.

Might try one of these:

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=304-0004

I've never used one but I've heard they work well, can drill a hole thru HSS endmills.

TMXONR · 10-03-2006, 07:01 AM

I was driliing out the center of a yoke, and I just went with a small bit and worked my way up in order of bit size. I skipped one size because I got in a hurry, and ended up cuttign the bit instead of the yoke. And I didn't even use the yokes when I was done.

Gula · 10-03-2006, 07:20 AM

grind the outside surface down just a Cu..hair and then drill through it. I have noticed that the outside surface of most metals is the hardest and once your through that your allmost home

HannibalLecter · 10-04-2006, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TMXONR

I was driliing out the center of a yoke, and I just went with a small bit and worked my way up in order of bit size. I skipped one size because I got in a hurry, and ended up cuttign the bit instead of the yoke. And I didn't even use the yokes when I was done.

This is how I did it as well on my TLT outputs. Tried this after frying a couple bits first myself.

TwistedCreations · 10-07-2006, 09:53 AM

also, go as slow as possible and be sure to add some type of oil/coolant to keep the bits cool.

666 · 10-07-2006, 12:46 PM

Thought i'd throw this in, you can use mgt pinions in place of twins, they are longer and already have a hole.

Cubman · 10-07-2006, 06:40 PM

I have tried both Associated MGT pinions and HPI Savage pinions, the Savage pinion works better in my opinion. The axle would never run smooth with the MGT pinion. I think it is because the teeth on the mgt pinion are slightly curved/cupped. When looking from above, the look like this: (

ON THE FARM · 10-07-2006, 10:14 PM

Try a pointed stone bit in a dermel tool. you need to get through the first layer. the part is most likly just "CASE HARDEND" this means just the outer layer (.010") is hardend.
or do like some others said to do and heat it up with a torch and let it cool down slowly, drill your hole then heat it back up to just about cherry red and quench it (cool it off) in some oil (used oil is the best. the more carbon in the oil the better), this will "reharden" it.

Bam Bam · 10-09-2006, 07:21 PM

It will take you awhile. on or friends xj on the rear output shaft took 1 1/2 hours to drill 1/2 inch in the output yokes.

Bronco · 10-10-2006, 08:00 PM

I see your problum. I tried making my own MAXX to NYLINT Adapters and started to drill through a bolt and my dad told me that the steel is almost to hard to drill through, and it will burn up most of your bits.
Well I didnt think he was right so I did it anyway and well.......burt up a bit. Hope this helps

maybe you should try a different desighn

JohnRobHolmes · 10-10-2006, 08:20 PM

I have drilled a few sets of hardened steel 8mm pinions. The EASIEST method by far is to use a grinder and remove the hardened steel surface. Then center punch and drill the hole with ascending bit sizes.

Reflection · 10-10-2006, 08:58 PM

Guess I've got lucky then. I've drilled 6 steel helical cut Twin Force pinions and have yet to chuck the same 1/8" bit in the drill doctor. I would put the pinion in my vise on the drill press,drill SUPER slow and add a few drops of water every little bit to keep the bit and part cooler.

10-03-2006, 12:38 AM	#1
Mnster MWRCA'er Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Machesney Park IL Posts: 3,995	Drilling through hardened steel I need to drill through some Kyosho Twin Force diff output shafts so that I can install some revo driveshafts that don't pop off all the time. I've tried drilling through similar things before. But this is crazy, my 1/8" carbide milling bits just scratch it. Any tips, it needs to be done in order for the project to continue as set screws just don't work. I know the basics, go slow, use lube. But, is there any insider tips? possibly will heat help?

10-03-2006, 02:12 AM	#2
superelmer Quarry Creeper Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: los alamitos Posts: 205	i was trying to get thru some stealth outdrives, and getting nowhere when i tried a dremel bit, and it went right through. it was very similar to the second bit from the top of this page (just a random result of searching...) http://www.sculpt.com/catalog_98/bur...remel_bits.htm good luck!

10-03-2006, 06:57 AM	#3
Ace Rock Crawler Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Longmont, CO Posts: 901	If carbide won't cut it it's damn hard. Could try anealing it with heat, but some steels are difficult to anneal. Would be worth a try. Heat it (propane torch) till a magnet no longer sticks to it and let it cool very slowly. One way to do that is to put it in a fireplace and let the fire burn down overnight. It helps to wrap it in stainless steel foil to keep air away which will keep the scaling down. I'd try a torch first. Pull the flame away slowly over several minutes, test it with a file to see if it softened. Might try one of these: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?P...MITEM=304-0004 I've never used one but I've heard they work well, can drill a hole thru HSS endmills.

10-03-2006, 07:01 AM	#4
TMXONR Quarry Creeper Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Bryant, AR Posts: 463	I was driliing out the center of a yoke, and I just went with a small bit and worked my way up in order of bit size. I skipped one size because I got in a hurry, and ended up cuttign the bit instead of the yoke. And I didn't even use the yokes when I was done.

10-03-2006, 07:20 AM	#5
Gula I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Here Posts: 2,319	grind the outside surface down just a Cu..hair and then drill through it. I have noticed that the outside surface of most metals is the hardest and once your through that your allmost home

10-07-2006, 09:53 AM	#7
TwistedCreations Colt Python/SR9c Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: out in the shop, reloading ammo! Posts: 8,626	also, go as slow as possible and be sure to add some type of oil/coolant to keep the bits cool.

10-07-2006, 12:46 PM	#8
666 MODERHATER™ Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Colorado Posts: 10,939	Thought i'd throw this in, you can use mgt pinions in place of twins, they are longer and already have a hole.

10-07-2006, 06:40 PM	#9
Cubman Rock Crawler Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Oak Ridge Posts: 590	I have tried both Associated MGT pinions and HPI Savage pinions, the Savage pinion works better in my opinion. The axle would never run smooth with the MGT pinion. I think it is because the teeth on the mgt pinion are slightly curved/cupped. When looking from above, the look like this: (

10-07-2006, 10:14 PM	#10
ON THE FARM Quarry Creeper Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: NORTH TEXAS Posts: 202	Try a pointed stone bit in a dermel tool. you need to get through the first layer. the part is most likly just "CASE HARDEND" this means just the outer layer (.010") is hardend. or do like some others said to do and heat it up with a torch and let it cool down slowly, drill your hole then heat it back up to just about cherry red and quench it (cool it off) in some oil (used oil is the best. the more carbon in the oil the better), this will "reharden" it.

10-09-2006, 07:21 PM	#11
Bam Bam Rock Crawler Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: White Lake Posts: 764	It will take you awhile. on or friends xj on the rear output shaft took 1 1/2 hours to drill 1/2 inch in the output yokes.

10-10-2006, 08:00 PM	#12
Bronco I joined the Band! Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: ... Posts: 515	I see your problum. I tried making my own MAXX to NYLINT Adapters and started to drill through a bolt and my dad told me that the steel is almost to hard to drill through, and it will burn up most of your bits. Well I didnt think he was right so I did it anyway and well.......burt up a bit. Hope this helps maybe you should try a different desighn

Sponsored Links

10-10-2006, 08:20 PM	#13
JohnRobHolmes owner, Holmes Hobbies LLC Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Volt up! Gear down! Posts: 20,290	I have drilled a few sets of hardened steel 8mm pinions. The EASIEST method by far is to use a grinder and remove the hardened steel surface. Then center punch and drill the hole with ascending bit sizes.

10-10-2006, 08:58 PM	#14
Reflection TEAM MODERATOR Join Date: May 2004 Location: Tennessee Posts: 10,855	Guess I've got lucky then. I've drilled 6 steel helical cut Twin Force pinions and have yet to chuck the same 1/8" bit in the drill doctor. I would put the pinion in my vise on the drill press,drill SUPER slow and add a few drops of water every little bit to keep the bit and part cooler.

RCCrawler Forums

Thread: Drilling through hardened steel