SMW Shop / My NEW Hobby

[rob_b]

Good info to know. Thanks

I'll try to lap it in a little closer. It would be nice if I could get the mill trammed in to +/- .0005 across 3" so that my Super Fly could do it's thing and show little evidence of being out of square. Recently my tram in both X and Y went to shit and even an 1/8" EM has steps on parallel passes. I didn't crash it so I'm thinking the machine settled. The cast iron was not heat treated and I would bet that it wasn't aged either.

[SkaldidDog]

I'm scared to see how out of "flat" my saddle top/vice are.

Hope you get her squared away Rob.

J

[rob_b]

Originally Posted by SkaldidDog

I'm scared to see how out of "flat" my saddle top/vice are.

Hope you get her squared away Rob.

J

Get your test indicator out

Borrowing some collets from work so maybe we will be all happy again soon.

[Crawling Calvin]

I am not sure how it would work for cast iron but I have heard stories from old tool and die guys about taking parts after heat treat but before finish grinding and putting them in the oven in the morning to heat it up and then letting it air cool and putting it in the freezer overnight. Repeat "enough times" and you can re-normalize the parts.

In your case I think if you could drag the machine out into the sun and let it sit and get toasty and then drag into the garage and let it sit and repeat over a few weeks you could help speed up the stress-reduction process.

I am not sure how much space or work it would be but have you looked into packing the machine with "epoxy granite" a mix of granite (and sand) and epoxy to hold it all together. I hear it is pretty temp stable and helps machine rigidity too. It just can be messy and expensive sadly.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I am not sure how much space or work it would be but have you looked into packing the machine with "epoxy granite" a mix of granite (and sand) and epoxy to hold it all together. I hear it is pretty temp stable and helps machine rigidity too. It just can be messy and expensive sadly.

One of the next things I want to do to my CNC router is build either an epoxy-granite or epoxy-quartz work surface. It's pretty amazing stuff. Very vibration absorbent. Filling any voids in your machine will definitely improve it.

I'm looking forward to having it for the whole work surface since doing an over pour creates a surface that's flat to .001". This doesn't matter in your case but you can still reap the vibration dampening properties of it.

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Calderwood

One of the next things I want to do to my CNC router is build either an epoxy-granite or epoxy-quartz work surface. It's pretty amazing stuff. Very vibration absorbent. Filling any voids in your machine will definitely improve it.

I'm looking forward to having it for the whole work surface since doing an over pour creates a surface that's flat to .001". This doesn't matter in your case but you can still reap the vibration dampening properties of it.

I plan on packing some of my spindle cavity to take up vibration. It is first on the list.

My main problem is the price of epoxy for it

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

I plan on packing some of my spindle cavity to take up vibration. It is first on the list.

My main problem is the price of epoxy for it

If you use the mix that people are using on cnczone the epoxy only makes up 10-15% of the total volume iirc. I thought the granite or quartz would be the expensive part.

[rob_b]

The only way the mill is getting outside is if it gets replaced by one of significant quality. It's a POS but I run it pretty hard sometimes... most of the time. Lol

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by Calderwood

If you use the mix that people are using on cnczone the epoxy only makes up 10-15% of the total volume iirc. I thought the granite or quartz would be the expensive part.

Can you PM me what kind of epoxy it is? I decided for the granite ill just go to places that sell countertops and ask if they got scraps. Most places tend to especially if they cut it to size. If that doesn't work then I will get it by the bag. I am not filling a swimming pool i just need to fill a "few" areas is all!

Yeah I hear you. One thing an old teacher said was "if you can't afford to replace it by the time it wears out... odds are your not doing something right" which is true. If it didn't earn you enough or save you enough to justify the cost of a new one... something isn't right. That said if you treat the machine right and drown the ways in oil it should be ok. I cut some oil grooves into my machines slides so I can pump (or let it gravity feed) oil in and that makes a huge difference having the oil AT the working surface. I have a huge plate of carbon impregnated Micarta I think it is if you want some to make ways with. It won't be as rigid as the metal ones (you could also do a hybrid of the composite + metal on the back for rigidity) but should be a bit more forgiving if the ways aren't dead nuts.

[Calderwood]

Originally Posted by Crawling Calvin

Can you PM me what kind of epoxy it is?

I figure I can just post here in case rob and/or others are interested.

CNCCookbook: Epoxy Granite Fill

Epoxy Granite (EG) The cheap and easy way... I hope.

And last but not least, the BIG thread.

Epoxy-Granite machine bases (was Polymer concrete frame?)

[Erin]

If you're are going to use quartz composite for a bench top, only go with 3cm properly supported. This material is notorious for sagging on unsupported spans and also in hot climates such as garages. It is not uv stable due to the epoxy. Its very strong material, but quality does vary. Id stick with ceasar stone and silestone. Zodiak is ok, avoid cambria.

Im not familar with the home mixes Sam posted, but some of these materials tend to expand some during curing, so maybe a stepped pour filling voids would be best.

[rob_b]

In my never-ending quest to try new methods I converted my setup into a horizontal mill with a 4th axis. I'll be making some relatively simple 2.2 beadlocks and will do both the front and backside machining in this orientation. OD on the lathe. Should be some relatively simple hand written programs. Plan on working on them sometime this week. I'll have to tram the head in then I can learn some new things not to do. Lol. Should be interesting using a new coordinate system. Only thing that scares me is the huge overhang on the table.

[Crawling Calvin]

Just curious why you chose to do it like that? Looks interesting to pull stuff on for sure. The only real change is the "X" is now the "Z" and vice versa

[rob_b]

Because I can! From what I googled x is now z, y is now x, z is now y and a is now c. Just trying to get a truer running wheel by utilizing the rotary axis with minimal x axis movement. Just an experiment really.

[Crawling Calvin]

Originally Posted by rob_b

Because I can! From what I googled x is now z, y is now x, z is now y and a is now c. Just trying to get a truer running wheel by utilizing the rotary axis with minimal x axis movement. Just an experiment really.

Good enough excuse for me Here is an interesting use of what is called "turn milling" in the industry. It is along the same lines as what you have in mind.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kddPuLSaOjQ (go in 45 seconds to see it)

Another thought is if you REALLY DO like the setup you could look into a setup like this Sherline Horizontal Milling Conversion only drawback (speaking from personal experience here!) is that the holding of items can be more difficult but you gain so much more work area since the "Z" becomes your "Y" and so on... (that also varies on the machines configuration too!)

[travis c.]

Can't wait to see what you come up with!!!!!

I know it will be epic!

[Etype R]

So did you not have enough z height to stand the rotary up in the c axis?

[rob_b]

That would actually be a better setup as there is plenty of Z room and no table overhang. But I have never played with the spindle mounted horizontally before so I'm going that direction instead.

[rob_b]

Got a chance to play with this setup a little...

Tramming in on a squared piece of 1018



.0005" out over about 2"



All the tools ready



Wrote the first op of the program. Ended up using the axis configuration as is...

(FRONT SIDE)
(T13 - 1/4" FLAT HARVEY PLASTIC SEM)

(SETUP)
G90 G94 G17
G20
G54
G1 F20 x-3
Y0 Z0
F4000 A0

(FIRST TOOL)
T13 M6
G43 H13
S5000 M3

(FACE)
F20X-.1
F6 X.025
F6000 G91 Y1.375 A2880
G90 F20 X-.1
M5
X-3 Y0

M30


Translates to this.



Cutting...
G0704 Horizontal turn mill test: http://youtu.be/K43CKya_PBI


De-burred with a chip brush



Inspects to +/- .001" flatness/parallelness after machining both sides.



Time to write the rest of the program and run some parts.

[travis c.]

I have a feeling that the "hockey pucks" you're working on are going to be the truest, most perfect on the planet!