3d printer for rc parts

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

I would try printing with a wide brim, and waaaaaaay slow. After 2/3 of the tubes print stop it and let it cool down, peel it off and see how the bottom looks, the first three layers are the key, that shouldn’t take more than 20 min. If it was what you wanted reprint as set. If not go to a raft, but you will need to sand it.

Tried it and as I thought the bottom was still flat and it was looking more like it was made of flat steel than tubing.



MIght try a raft later and see what happens.

[vwdaveb]

Another thing to try with the brim is instead of brim being say 1.5mm,2mm or so from part. Set that to zero, it acts kind of like a raft, but is easier to remove and doesn't seem to affect the outcome as much

[whitrzac]

Try printing with supports?

Print it laying down too.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by vwdaveb

Another thing to try with the brim is instead of brim being say 1.5mm,2mm or so from part. Set that to zero, it acts kind of like a raft, but is easier to remove and doesn't seem to affect the outcome as much

Your brim should connect to the print already. If it does not connect then it is a skirt. You really shouldn't have to make that adjustment, the few slicers I have used differentiate between the two settings.

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by IPT

Cool, what material did you print it with?

PLA for now. I imagine I will ultimately have to go with something stronger but going to give this a go for now. Bumped the heat up just a bit for better adhesion and printed w/ 2mm walls/ceiling/floor and 30% infill.... We'll see how strong it is...

Originally Posted by Brake Weight

Pics of it mounted?

Hope to be able to work on it a bit tonight, been busy buying/selling/working on my 1:1's for the last week or so, lol

[JSterrett]

Still very much a work in progress... had to improvise some upper-rear links for now...



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[vwdaveb]

The brim does connect to the part

[CREEPERBOB]

Raspberry Pi,
Have Octopi loaded and Pi camera working.
Now to get it to talk to my printer .

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Raspberry Pi,
Have Octopi loaded and Pi camera working.
Now to get it to talk to my printer .

Nice. That's one of my next projects. Have the Pi kit sitting here, just haven't found time to do it yet...

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

Nice. That's one of my next projects. Have the Pi kit sitting here, just haven't found time to do it yet...

Yeah, its kind of involved if coding and writing aren't your thing,,,,,,,


And it's definitely not mine

[whitrzac]

It took me longer to find a power pack than to setup octopi....




Copy/extract OS files, edit txt filr with wireless info, done

[CREEPERBOB]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Copy/extract OS files, edit txt filr with wireless info, done

Yep,,,that's it

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by CREEPERBOB

Raspberry Pi,
Have Octopi loaded and Pi camera working.
Now to get it to talk to my printer .

My printer came with an USB cable that I connected to the Raspberry & the printer. Then opened a web browser, type octopi.local url line. You will then need to login to Octopi afterwards the Connect button should become hot and you can click it to connect to the printer. It took me a couple of times to get it to connect but once it connected once not it only take a couple of seconds.

I use this interface to upload my gcode to Optopi and then send it to the printer. I can then use my browser or my phone to check on the progress. I don't have mine setup to montior it on other than the local network.

[Rekreant]

So I was really impressed with my Vader skid plate made out of Delrin. So I looked into it as I thought it was a thermoplastic, and it was! Here is the link: https://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/

Im gonna get some and give it a try, but if we can get it close to the same quality as injection molded Delrin this stuff could be the holy grail of load bearing parts! Stats show it as even better than HIPS!

[whitrzac]

Originally Posted by Rekreant

So I was really impressed with my Vader skid plate made out of Delrin. So I looked into it as I thought it was a thermoplastic, and it was! Here is the link: https://gizmodorks.com/acetal-3d-printer-filament/

Im gonna get some and give it a try, but if we can get it close to the same quality as injection molded Delrin this stuff could be the holy grail of load bearing parts! Stats show it as even better than HIPS!

Been there, done that... Still have 3/4 of the 200g roll


Good luck getting it to stick and not peal off after a couple layers. The only thing I haven't been able to try is with the bed at 150c+ like some have reported success with because of firmware issues.



Glass, glue, contstruction paper, super98 spray adhesive, etc, nothing worked.

[Rekreant]

Originally Posted by whitrzac

Been there, done that... Still have 3/4 of the 200g roll


Good luck getting it to stick and not peal off after a couple layers. The only thing I haven't been able to try is with the bed at 150c+ like some have reported success with because of firmware issues.



Glass, glue, contstruction paper, super98 spray adhesive, etc, nothing worked.

I wonder how it would perform with an enclosure? Do you feel like it was heat issues?

[CREEPERBOB]

Mine does great for my (hobby) purposes and is simple to operate.
I have an A8, and it's definitely not a turn key proposition but if your handy and willing to spend some time to get to know it its a great entry level printer.

[JSterrett]

Maker Select V2 here. Decent prints after mods/tuning, but also requires learning the machine and fixing your own issues.

I think all budget-friendly machines are going to have similar learning curves...

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[Jim85IROC]

I have the Maker Select, and I tgought it was very noob friendly. I went from nox to printing in a half hour, and the default Cura settings were good enough to get started. There were some upgrades worth doing, but I printed most of them out for my first prints.

[Gramps]

I started several months ago with a PowerSpec Duplicator i3 Plus (rebranded Wanhao) like others said there was and still is a learning curve. I was printing the sample files within 45 minutes of unboxing it. I then printed using the Cura that it came with. After a few prints with that I expanded out and looked at other slicers, one reason was I use Linux. I to printed a few mods for it.