3d printer for rc parts

[Jim85IROC]

I'm liking the idea of trying some PETG also, but I want to make some upgrades to my printer first. Most of what I'm reading about PETG indicates that it's going to want extruder temps that are at or above what I feel comfortable doing with mine until I get an all metal extruder. I also want to get the MOSFET in before I raise my bed temps up. I should probably get a 2nd MOSFET for my extruder too.

[JatoTheRipper]

I haven't seen this mentioned. A quality filament brand is key to good printing. I prefer Hatchbox and a local company called Filament Innovations.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

I'm liking the idea of trying some PETG also, but I want to make some upgrades to my printer first. Most of what I'm reading about PETG indicates that it's going to want extruder temps that are at or above what I feel comfortable doing with mine until I get an all metal extruder. I also want to get the MOSFET in before I raise my bed temps up. I should probably get a 2nd MOSFET for my extruder too.

Another thing that helped me was wrapping my extruder in an insulator and Kapton tape. When I got the kit the heat block wasnt covered with anything and would never seem to get hot enough.

Theres also a write up Ive seen of doing the same to the bottom of a heated bed. I havent done it to mine but I havent had any temp problems on the bed yet either.

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I haven't seen this mentioned. A quality filament brand is key to good printing. I prefer Hatchbox and a local company called Filament Innovations.

I like the Hatchbox stuff, only problem I have with it is breaking. If I dont use the printer for a while it seems the filament breaks where it feeds into the stepper block. I could be chaffing it there too but dont think its from that.

Ive also used the 3D Solutech stuff and liked it. The normal color stuff worked well, the fancy neon colors are ok but Im never happy with the finish/appearance of them. Just look messy, not smooth like the other stuff.

I havent tried these guys yet, MatterHackers, but want to. Ive read good things about them in the past, little higher priced then others but it seems like it might be worth it.

Ive also printed in CF using the stuff Proto-Pasta. Real easy to print and setups like normal PLA. I liked it better in non stress/low stress areas, it can def be brittle to handle and if the parts small it can be too easy to snap. But it is a little lighter in weight then normal print.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Robbob

I like the Hatchbox stuff, only problem I have with it is breaking. If I dont use the printer for a while it seems the filament breaks where it feeds into the stepper block. I could be chaffing it there too but dont think its from that.

Ive also used the 3D Solutech stuff and liked it. The normal color stuff worked well, the fancy neon colors are ok but Im never happy with the finish/appearance of them. Just look messy, not smooth like the other stuff.

I havent tried these guys yet, MatterHackers, but want to. Ive read good things about them in the past, little higher priced then others but it seems like it might be worth it.

Ive also printed in CF using the stuff Proto-Pasta. Real easy to print and setups like normal PLA. I liked it better in non stress/low stress areas, it can def be brittle to handle and if the parts small it can be too easy to snap. But it is a little lighter in weight then normal print.

Which type of Hatchbox breaks on you - ABS, PLA, or PETG?

I've been meaning to try Proto-Pasta.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Which type of Hatchbox breaks on you - ABS, PLA, or PETG?

I've been meaning to try Proto-Pasta.

PETG ..... its about 5mm up from where it gos into the stepper block. Ive tried leavign the head centered thinking it was pressure from the twirl from being spooled up, still breaks. Its more of a pain the ass re-feeding the filament but it works fine when Im using the machine.


I liked using the Pasta stuff, plus they're a small company it seems thats in the filament business because of passion for it and not the dollars. Seems like they got some new stuff since I last looked too.

This looks interesting.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collecti...ant=1204196648

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Robbob

PETG ..... its about 5mm up from where it gos into the stepper block. Ive tried leavign the head centered thinking it was pressure from the twirl from being spooled up, still breaks. Its more of a pain the ass re-feeding the filament but it works fine when Im using the machine.


I liked using the Pasta stuff, plus they're a small company it seems thats in the filament business because of passion for it and not the dollars. Seems like they got some new stuff since I last looked too.

This looks interesting.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collecti...ant=1204196648

Hmm I've never had that problem with PETG. I have had it with PLA, but PLA gets brittle when you leave it out because it takes on moisture.

That's why I like Filament Innovations. Small, local company and the guys are nice, responsive and passionate about 3D printing. Plus the filament I've tried works very well.

These two items were printed with their Diamond Line blue filament. No post processing.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Hmm I've never had that problem with PETG. I have had it with PLA, but PLA gets brittle when you leave it out because it takes on moisture.

That's why I like Filament Innovations. Small, local company and the guys are nice, responsive and passionate about 3D printing. Plus the filament I've tried works very well.

These two items were printed with their Diamond Line blue filament. No post processing.

Those are pretty clean for sure. Could be the colors Ive use too, neon green and yellow. That blue is sharp.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

ABS sucks IMHO. You need to put your printer in an enclosure or have it in a tightly environmentally controlled area. I prefer PETG over ABS by a long shot. And yes, the Select Mini will print PETG.

What heat settings do you use ?
Speed and thickness ?


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

What heat settings do you use ?
Speed and thickness ?


Hang up and Drive

For the print above? I'm honestly not sure. I typically print slow and use thin layers on most things unless I don't care about the look. I can share my generic settings when I get home if you'd like. Most prints don't vary too much off of my standard settings.

[mikemcE]

Sorry, I meant between PLA and PETG


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Sorry, I meant between PLA and PETG


Hang up and Drive

I think I mostly use the same settings except for the extruder and bed temperatures.

[Robbob]

For me I use 190/205 on PLA with bed temp 60-70 .... PETG I use 215/230 and found 70-80 works for my bed.

Same here too all my other settings are the same, just change the temps.

[mikemcE]

Reread and am stoked......I will wait until the 27th, but an messing with cura , so I know my way around


Hang up and Drive

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Hmm I've never had that problem with PETG. I have had it with PLA, but PLA gets brittle when you leave it out because it takes on moisture.

Checked out my reel of Hatchbox after reading this and realized it was PLA, I been printing that with my PETG temps with out realizing it. Its actually printing really really good too lol.

But didnt know PLA took on water that bad, makes sense. I keep the rolls Im not using in a dry box (wood desk drawer) next to the heater and the silica packets in there with them.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Checked out my reel of Hatchbox after reading this and realized it was PLA, I been printing that with my PETG temps with out realizing it. Its actually printing really really good too lol.

But didnt know PLA took on water that bad, makes sense. I keep the rolls Im not using in a dry box (wood desk drawer) next to the heater and the silica packets in there with them.

That'll do it. I store my PLA in rubber sealed totes with silica packets. Moisture turns PLA to junk. You can supposedly bake the water out, but I haven't had much success in getting it to print well afterwards. Hopefully you can save yours.

[Robbob]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

That'll do it. I store my PLA in rubber sealed totes with silica packets. Moisture turns PLA to junk. You can supposedly bake the water out, but I haven't had much success in getting it to print well afterwards. Hopefully you can save yours.

When I was looking at trying nylon I read about baking it and the moisture problem. I saw one idea I thought was great, food dehydrator.

Something like this that the roll would fit into.
https://www.amazon.com/Presto-06300-...ood+dehydrator

Saw a picture of a spool mod on Thingiverse one day and in the background I could see they had a roll inside a dehydrator.

My PLA has been good, its still near the heater and being winter I always have it on around 70. Summer Ill change it up though.

[mikemcE]

I like the dehydrator, I actually use one for drying paint that I’ve airbrushed on styrene bodies


Hang up and Drive

[Stollenritter]

Hi guys, I`m in
Bought a Wanhao Duplicator 6 and started fiddling around.

Testobject: spring perch


and trying different printing orientations with different results:



Overhangs seem to cause problems. Maybe a cooling problem. Printinga new blower fan duct now

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Stollenritter

Hi guys, I`m in
Bought a Wanhao Duplicator 6 and started fiddling around.

Testobject: spring perch

Overhangs seem to cause problems. Maybe a cooling problem. Printinga new blower fan duct now

Ninety degree overhangs usually require supports to print without sagging.
I would check your slicer software and find the option for printing supports and try it again.

Here is one my favorite articles on learning to make good prints.
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1709

[Stollenritter]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

Ninety degree overhangs usually require supports to print without sagging.
I would check your slicer software and find the option for printing supports and try it again.

Here is one my favorite articles on learning to make good prints.
https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1709

Hello K7,
Thank you for help! I will go trough the article, seems a good write up for beginners