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Old 12-24-2017, 12:27 PM   #81
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Default 3d printer for rc parts

https://forum.lulzbot.com/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1709


Great resource !!
So much common sense



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Old 12-27-2017, 07:47 PM   #82
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts



Set up. Leveling and printing starts tomorrow.



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Old 12-28-2017, 04:31 PM   #83
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

Oh my !!!!
No setup problems, first print on the bed now, not sure why I need a butterfly , but Iíve got one coming . Sweet machine, ZERO issues , canít wait for some good parts, inner fenders will be a start.



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Old 12-29-2017, 05:59 AM   #84
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

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Originally Posted by mikemcE View Post
Oh my !!!!
No setup problems, first print on the bed now, not sure why I need a butterfly , but Iíve got one coming . Sweet machine, ZERO issues , canít wait for some good parts, inner fenders will be a start.


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It's awesome when they print well out of the box. If only it were always that easy.

You'll find you don't need rafts with prints like this.

Let's see the finished project when you have it. I imagine you're putting that butterfly on your Harley.

Which vehicle are you making inner fenders for?
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Old 12-29-2017, 06:23 AM   #85
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

Iíve got a list of parts for the Wraith , but want them in PTEG, so Iím going to play and practice with PLA first. First issue was prints starting in corner not center, that was one click in CURA.


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Old 12-29-2017, 06:33 AM   #86
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Iíve got a list of parts for the Wraith , but want them in PTEG, so Iím going to play and practice with PLA first. First issue was prints starting in corner not center, that was one click in CURA.


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Cura has so many freaking options that it's dizzying at first.
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Old 12-29-2017, 07:29 AM   #87
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

What got me was I needed to ďuncheckĒ the center box. The factory prints are perfect, I tried two other random files and they started in the corner until I changed it.
Good news the butterfly is smooth and crisp


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Old 01-06-2018, 07:47 AM   #88
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

Been playing for a week now. Iím starting to get all the settings correct now, PLA works well for me, but I need PETG. So test, test, test. Close, but not quite perfect, bit of stringing and a few blobs, but strong .




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Old 01-06-2018, 01:00 PM   #89
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

Do you have to coat the print bed with anything like hairspray to help the base material stay in place?
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Old 01-06-2018, 02:59 PM   #90
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Default 3d printer for rc parts

No not so far. I run it heated at 70 and PETG sticks just fine. Almost too good. I am getting some high spots that acetone isnít cutting, need to go glass plate soon for PETG.
Printing PLA is a dream on this machine, right OOB


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Old 01-06-2018, 09:07 PM   #91
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

Those prints look really good.
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Old 01-07-2018, 05:29 PM   #92
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

I have been practicing printing with a large format extruder so that I can eventually print large parts like a custom flatbed.

In the video, you can see the printer laying down a single extrusion shell in a tall model vase. Finished model is 6 inches tall.

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Old 01-08-2018, 07:04 AM   #93
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Been playing for a week now. I’m starting to get all the settings correct now, PLA works well for me, but I need PETG. So test, test, test. Close, but not quite perfect, bit of stringing and a few blobs, but strong .

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PETG from what Im learning more of ... needs to be printed slower, hotter and with the head a bit higher up from the bed. Also not cooled as much during the print. It doesnt need to be squished down like PLA and layers stick together better if they are still close to their print temps.

If youre still shedding stringies you could try slowing the head down or turning your fan down. Im at 75% right now but gonna try dropping to 50%, I get some layer splitting. Also restraction can help too with getting rid of the hairies/stringies.

The vase video is perfect .... you can see it laying down the strand and not squishing it. IT actually makes me want to print one tonight as a good test for what Ive been trying.
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Old 01-08-2018, 07:23 AM   #94
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Do you have to coat the print bed with anything like hairspray to help the base material stay in place?
Im printing on 3M blue tape and just use the glue sticks I get from the dollar store, 3 sticks for a buck. Last time I stocked up the lady laughed and said her office meetings usually required the same thing lol.

Glass Ive read a lot use good old fashion Aqua Net hair spray .... you know the Ozone depleting stuff
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Old 01-08-2018, 09:12 AM   #95
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Yeah 245 at 50 seems much better, the fan is not shrouded, so mine is at 100. Iím getting better, but practice will make a difference


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Old 01-08-2018, 11:00 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by mikemcE View Post
Been playing for a week now. Iím starting to get all the settings correct now, PLA works well for me, but I need PETG. So test, test, test. Close, but not quite perfect, bit of stringing and a few blobs, but strong .

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Those prints look great! The Monoprice printers are highly underrated.

PETG can be difficult to remove.

I hate printing with rafts, but sometimes it's necessary.
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Old 01-08-2018, 12:03 PM   #97
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

I too hate rafts, but with PETG the prints are much better, so itís worth the extra time and materials. PLA doesnít seem as finicky , no raft or brim needed.


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Old 01-08-2018, 12:30 PM   #98
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Default Re: 3d printer for rc parts

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The vase video is perfect .... you can see it laying down the strand and not squishing it. IT actually makes me want to print one tonight as a good test for what Ive been trying.
It took a bit of practice to get it right. With PETT you want high layer heights so that the finished print is transparent. In the vase print, the layer height is the same as the diameter of the nozzle so there is not flattening of the layers.

I practiced doing prints of 3DBenchy until I got perfect prints then I moved on to the vase.
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:21 PM   #99
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It took a bit of practice to get it right. With PETT you want high layer heights so that the finished print is transparent. In the vase print, the layer height is the same as the diameter of the nozzle so there is not flattening of the layers.

I practiced doing prints of 3DBenchy until I got perfect prints then I moved on to the vase.
Good tip.

I would think no flattening means the resultant print won't be as strong though.
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Old 01-08-2018, 01:55 PM   #100
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Good tip.

I would think no flattening means the resultant print won't be as strong though.
That is is true. With the layer having a round profile on top you get less contact between layers and less strength. I traded off strength for maximum clarity which is ok in a vase.

If I was wanting a stronger print I would use a lower layer height and more layers. But the plastic would have a cloudy look to it.

Another factor is the plastic being used, since PETT is "sticky" when hot, you have a higher layer height and still get bonding of the layers.

A nice thing about 3D printing is you never run of things to learn due to all of the different options that are available.
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