3d printer for rc parts

[Stomp]

Here are some beadlock wheels I am printing right now on the Ender 3. Total cost per three piece beadlock wheel is $0.75, for a total of $3 for a set of 4 wheels. Not bad!

[Robbob]

Question for the mechanical side of the printers. I want to/have to replace the V-Wheels on my Ender3 but noticing Polycarb ones now available.

Was intending on ordering the Delrin, POM as the fancy want to call it, ones but noticed there's Polycarbonate ones available now.

Opinions between the two?

Thanks

[big specht]

Is there any consumables that these printers need? After buying one what all would you need to use one?

[punkindrublik]

Originally Posted by big specht

Is there any consumables that these printers need? After buying one what all would you need to use one?

Just your media (filament) and electricity.

Over time you'll need lubricant (oil/graphite) and eventually bearings and other replacement parts but that's to be expected with anything mechanical.

[gsgraber92]

I’m not sure if this is the right place to post but I use a Modified Monoprice Maker Plus (Wanhao i3Plus). I typically use PLA+ filament because it is easy to use and prints so nicely. The problem is over time I feel like parts become brittle. I have a heated bed and Micro Swiss hotend but no enclosure. I like printing pretty elaborate RC parts. Like transmissions, shock towers, etc that require decent tolerant and fitment. My question is what filaments have you used with a similar printer with success?


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[mikemcE]

I print PETG all day long on my III plus.
Same settings as PLA, but Hot end is 240c Bed 80c.
I also run the micro Swiss, and did the mosfet mod.
I printed this wraith skid in PLA, then switched it over to PETG, must have done a dozen of them for buddies


Hang up and Drive

[gsgraber92]

If you don’t mind me asking, what brand of PETG do you like to use? I have used it but it but it doesn’t seem as clean at PLA. I would like to try it again.


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[punkindrublik]

Originally Posted by gsgraber92

I’m not sure if this is the right place to post but I use a Modified Monoprice Maker Plus (Wanhao i3Plus). I typically use PLA+ filament because it is easy to use and prints so nicely. The problem is over time I feel like parts become brittle. I have a heated bed and Micro Swiss hotend but no enclosure. I like printing pretty elaborate RC parts. Like transmissions, shock towers, etc that require decent tolerant and fitment. My question is what filaments have you used with a similar printer with success?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I use the same printer and have had great success with carbon fiber infused PLA. If you use it though, it's a good idea to get a hardened nozzle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KWVOFD4

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by gsgraber92

If you don’t mind me asking, what brand of PETG do you like to use? I have used it but it but it doesn’t seem as clean at PLA. I would like to try it again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Started with Monoprice, works well, I’ve printed gray, red, black, and white, all worked the same, currently printing red cones now. Did set up a fine .016 profile works ok, still a few infill tweaks needed. I bought some TPU, and want to try cones in that


Hang up and Drive

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by punkindrublik

I use the same printer and have had great success with carbon fiber infused PLA. If you use it though, it's a good idea to get a hardened nozzle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KWVOFD4

Just bought a spool of that, looks like fun


Hang up and Drive

[Voodoobrew]

I use Tha Amazon black petg. I think the black filaments tend to string more. I upgraded my anet a8 to a knock off e3d v6 hotend and bowden tube and the stringing went away almost completely.

Which was pretty unexpected really.
Bowden tubes usually make the stringing worse.

If there is a gap in the the hotend at the base of the pft sleeve molten filament pools and makes retraction more problematic. An almetal hotend may fix that. I don't have one though.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[MaxxPain]

Found this cool trailer on Thingivers and had to printed it.

[Toyotarc]

Originally Posted by MaxxPain

I think your shackle needs to be moved forward or the leaf suspension won't flex properly.

[MaxxPain]

Originally Posted by Toyotarc

I think your shackle needs to be moved forward or the leaf suspension won't flex properly.

The rear shackle, yea.. I will check on that. Thanks

[Toyotarc]

Originally Posted by MaxxPain

The rear shackle, yea.. I will check on that. Thanks

The trailer looks awesome btw! I only have black petg for my printer so I gotta buy more colors so I can actually make stuff like this.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Toyotarc

The trailer looks awesome btw! I only have black petg for my printer so I gotta buy more colors so I can actually make stuff like this.

Buy white, Tamiya sprays work well.
I seem to use more white on serious jobs, the colored ones I buy are for practice /test prints as they are cheap, and usually metallic and sparkly. Test temp and diameter on all new filaments as SOP



Hang up and Drive

[mikemcE]

New printer, New filament for a new decade.
CR20 Pro, ProtoPasta HTPLA

Prints like a dream, with The latest version of Cura(4.4?) If you use a Creality Profile, it will have “dynamic “ layer(.16) and (.20) normal, the quality the dynamic layer is phenomenal! In a nutshell, it’s the “Creawesum” mod from before, and it works well.noticeably smoother on all printers, by looking at the profiles.
My older time learned and tweaked profile is almost a mirror of this OOB profile!!! Wow!


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

New printer, New filament for a new decade.
CR20 Pro, ProtoPasta HTPLA

Prints like a dream, with The latest version of Cura(4.4?) If you use a Creality Profile, it will have “dynamic “ layer(.16) and (.20) normal, the quality the dynamic layer is phenomenal! In a nutshell, it’s the “Creawesum” mod from before, and it works well.noticeably smoother on all printers, by looking at the profiles.
My older time learned and tweaked profile is almost a mirror of this OOB profile!!! Wow!


Hang up and Drive

Got any photos of your prints on your new toy? Metal frame? What kinda price does it run? I need to pick up a larger printer myself at some point.


I printed the VS4-10 inner fender brace. The base, on my build plate, prints perfectly. Then it starts doing this as it moves up to the top. What is causing this and how do I fix it?

[mikemcE]

Print it gussets down, rotate 90.
My new printer is an Creality CR20 Pro
I grabbed it for 299. At AMain.
24v power supply, auto leveling, a bit smaller than the CR10, and bigger than the 3 all metal, solid and quieter than my III plus. I did print a wad of those, different infill, for heat treatment.
Last night I did my old standby the Benchy, in dynamic mode. One minor bridging flaw in the arch. I will post some pix up when home.


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Print it gussets down, rotate 90.
My new printer is an Creality CR20 Pro
I grabbed it for 299. At AMain.
24v power supply, auto leveling, a bit smaller than the CR10, and bigger than the 3 all metal, solid and quieter than my III plus. I did print a wad of those, different infill, for heat treatment.
Last night I did my old standby the Benchy, in dynamic mode. One minor bridging flaw in the arch. I will post some pix up when home.


Hang up and Drive

I printed it gussets down the first time and I had boogers elsewhere on the part. Rotating doesn't solve my issues.

Black Friday steal I assume?