3d printer for rc parts

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by QuesoDelDiablo

The prusa filament is great, not the absolute BEST I've ever used but in the top few for sure.

And about the mmu-

We've got an mmu2 set up but we've never been able to get it running with 100% reliability. It jams on at least 3/5 filament changes.

The software is really good and you can almost always recover the prints but it blows your print time up by constantly have check/fix jams but I've basically given up on it.

And it takes up a lot of space with 5 filament spools that all need to be on the table behind the printer.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk

Thank you. I appreciate all the feedback!

Originally Posted by k7zpj

Getting the MMU2 working successfully takes a lot of time to get the filament profiles right so you don't get jams and you have to have the filament sensors adjusted correctly to make it reliable.

I have my MMU to the point where I am only having to do manual interventions once per 5000 color changes. It is really nice once you have it working.

It is critical that the printer is working perfectly before adding the MMU2. I would wait 6 months to get used to your printer before ordering it.

Using Prusa filament is a good way to start since there are really good filament profiles in PrusaSlicer 2.

Thank you. Definitely looks like I won't be adding it at least until they get it working 99%.

Originally Posted by k7zpj

Congratulations on the new printer. I think going the kit route is the right decision. When the new set up of upgrades come out, you will be comfortable with taking the printer apart and installing the upgrades.

If you don't have an 8mm drill bit, you will want to get one. The rod holes in the x-axis parts are not round. You need to use the drill bit as reamer to make the rods fit correctly. A lot of people hammer them in and end up with bent rods which causes all kinds of problems.

Thank you!

Good to know!

[Jim85IROC]

This weekend I got my all-metal hot end installed on my Monoprice printer. It was mostly a piece of cake, except that the directions stated to have the thermal barrier tube sticking up about 1.7mm. I did that, and found that the nozzle didn't sit far enough down, which allowed the bottom of my fan to contact the printing bed. After a little adjustment to move the tube down a bit further, all went well and I'm back to printing. Pretty soon I'll try my first PETG prints.

[k7zpj]

Prusa just posted an updated to the status of the Prusa Mini and update info for the MK3 and PrusaSlicer: https://blog.prusaprinters.org/2019-...a-mini-update/

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

Let me know how you like the Overture. I just got a roll of the black stuff in along with my all metal hot end that I'm upgrading my Monoprice with. My Hatchbox PLA has been my favorite stuff, so I planned on Hatchbox PETG until I made the same discovery that you did. The Overture seems to be very highly rated on Amazon, so hopefully it's good stuff.

I'm not a fan of Overture so far. I have to print it hotter than my Hatchbox PETG and the results aren't as good with Overture. I'm not giving up on it, but I'm curious to hear your thoughts on it.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

This weekend I got my all-metal hot end installed on my Monoprice printer. It was mostly a piece of cake, except that the directions stated to have the thermal barrier tube sticking up about 1.7mm. I did that, and found that the nozzle didn't sit far enough down, which allowed the bottom of my fan to contact the printing bed. After a little adjustment to move the tube down a bit further, all went well and I'm back to printing. Pretty soon I'll try my first PETG prints.

Patience and similar settings as you use on PLA, no prob. I run less fan, and more heat(30% fan 240/80) with my micro Swiss, consistent and no strings.


Hang up and Drive

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Patience and similar settings as you use on PLA, no prob. I run less fan, and more heat(30% fan 240/80) with my micro Swiss, consistent and no strings.


Hang up and Drive

I'm not terribly happy with my PLA settings. I couldn't get it to stop stringing, even with massive retraction levels. I never figured it out, and just learned to accept that I'm going to get a string across the top of my finished print as the nozzle moves by.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

I'm not terribly happy with my PLA settings. I couldn't get it to stop stringing, even with massive retraction levels. I never figured it out, and just learned to accept that I'm going to get a string across the top of my finished print as the nozzle moves by.

What are your print settings on PLA?

Update on the Overture PETG. My printer had no issues printing Hatchbox PETG. It seems it struggles to get hot enough for the Overture. The extruder skips/clicks like it can't extrude easily enough and I'm maxed out on temperature. Never had this issue with Hatchbox.

[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

What are your print settings on PLA?

Update on the Overture PETG. My printer had no issues printing Hatchbox PETG. It seems it struggles to get hot enough for the Overture. The extruder skips/clicks like it can't extrude easily enough and I'm maxed out on temperature. Never had this issue with Hatchbox.

I'll have to look when I get home for the details. I recall the print temp being around 215C, and retraction being something stupid like 10mm. I think I'm printing too hot for PLA, but my prints seem to be good and strong, which was a priority over cosmetics. I probably should have tried a lower temp and lowering fan speeds instead of cranking the nozzle temps, but once I got good, functional prints, I more or less quit trying.

What temps are you trying to print the PETG at? I know my printer can maintain 250C nozzle temps, but haven't attempted to go any higher yet.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

I'll have to look when I get home for the details. I recall the print temp being around 215C, and retraction being something stupid like 10mm. I think I'm printing too hot for PLA, but my prints seem to be good and strong, which was a priority over cosmetics. I probably should have tried a lower temp and lowering fan speeds instead of cranking the nozzle temps, but once I got good, functional prints, I more or less quit trying.

What temps are you trying to print the PETG at? I know my printer can maintain 250C nozzle temps, but haven't attempted to go any higher yet.

I typically print Hatchbox PETG around 235°. For the Overture I have my printer maxed out at 250° which, without an enclosure, is more realistically around 240-245° per the printer readout.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I typically print Hatchbox PETG around 235°. For the Overture I have my printer maxed out at 250° which, without an enclosure, is more realistically around 240-245° per the printer readout.

Does your temp bounce? , have you used an in fate heat gun to check actual temp at nozzle?
If bouncing use a PID tune for the print temp you want. If Hot end is too cool, cut your fan back in your slicer, or manually.
I print most PLA at 220/215, fan at 100% except for first two layers.


Hang up and Drive

[JatoTheRipper]

Wait...WHAT?

I just got an email saying my Prusa i3 shipped! That was much faster than the estimated lead time. Woohoo!

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Wait...WHAT?

I just got an email saying my Prusa i3 shipped! That was much faster than the estimated lead time. Woohoo!

When did you order yours? Trying to get a time estimate.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

When did you order yours? Trying to get a time estimate.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

January 11th.

[Panther6834]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

January 11th.

Shit (oops, pardon my Swahili...lol). That's A LOT better than the "April" timeframe the website was indicating a few days ago. Gotta see how much my paycheck is tomorrow, and, after paying the rest of this month's, and the beginning of next month's, bills, if there's more than enough last over, it might be time to place me order. Thanks.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by Panther6834

Shit (oops, pardon my Swahili...lol). That's A LOT better than the "April" timeframe the website was indicating a few days ago. Gotta see how much my paycheck is tomorrow, and, after paying the rest of this month's, and the beginning of next month's, bills, if there's more than enough last over, it might be time to place me order. Thanks.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place

I ordered the i3. It stated 2-3 weeks lead time when I ordered and it still shows that today. The Mini, on the other hand, still shows a lead time out to April. The lead time made the decision for me and it's the reason I did not buy the Mini. I was leaning towards the i3 anyway, but the lead time solidified my decision.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

I ordered the i3. It stated 2-3 weeks lead time when I ordered and it still shows that today. The Mini, on the other hand, still shows a lead time out to April. The lead time made the decision for me and it's the reason I did not buy the Mini. I was leaning towards the i3 anyway, but the lead time solidified my decision.

You made the choice to buy the MK3 at the right time.



They were able to work through the Mk3 shipping queue a bit faster than published since the Mini is still on shipping hold.



The Mini is suppose to start shipping again next week when the updated displays with the new rotatory encoders arrive from the supplier.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

You made the choice to buy the MK3 at the right time.

They were able to work through the Mk3 shipping queue a bit faster than published since the Mini is still on shipping hold.

The Mini is suppose to start shipping again next week when the updated displays with the new rotatory encoders arrive from the supplier.

Oh wow. Sounds like I got in just in time. Thanks!

[k7zpj]

For those who have a Prusa Mini on order, here is the new shipping table that shows the deliver date by work week ordered: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/6Od...-shippingtable

[JatoTheRipper]

My Prusa i3 was not delivered today. The DHL driver must have decided he didn't feel like working a full day. We got a couple of inches of snow on Sunday. The roads were clear Sunday night and today they were also clear and we didn't get a single drop of precipitation. But the driver claims he couldn't deliver them due to the weather. The "official" response on the tracking is:

"The shipment is being held and not expected to be moved or delivered on time due to a Force Majeure event with Weather." LOL WUT? Clear roads must be a bitch to navigate for DHL. It seems more like they didn't want to deliver just because it's DHL. Typical from what I hear.

They'll "try again" tomorrow.

[Panther6834]

Unfortunately, yes...typical of DHL. Had a similar delivery problem work then a few weeks ago. The sad/funny thing in, I love in the SF Bay Area, where there was NO bad weather of any kind.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place