3d printer for rc parts

[Stollenritter]

I found an interesting tutorial on youtube on how to design 3D-parts for rc cars to make them last. One point was layer orientation for optimum strength on A-arms. Therefor these A-arms were printed diagonally. An interesing take on the sbject. I cannot validate this theory, but someone more experienced in 3d printing may have a look and let us know:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z6hXOzEQywM

[RickM]

I think watched that last night. Interesting perspective. I think the biggest things I need to get my arms around are how to properly set this up to actually work how it is designed to work. This sounds a bit more intensive than simply putting paper in the printer and making sure the ink cartridge is full.

[mikemcE]

Your slicer will tell you, most have a preview function even cura


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[RickM]

The more I am digging into this, the more I am starting to get a bit confused about what I can and cannot do.

So, for structural Rc parts, like a-arms etc. Is there a preferred filament material? I don’t think I want it to be to hard, or it will be brittle. Also I am hearing about the slicer... Is this how this works.
1. Design something in a program... like Sketchup? BTW. Any design software recommendations would be great.
2. Pull that design into a slicer program to amend or “touch up” things.
3. Determine the best materials to use (Filiment etc.)
4. Print away

[mikemcE]

Preferred filaments are PETG or ABS(stinky).
When you draw , ie in sketchup, you export that drawing to meshmaker. It will figure out how to print, and make a .STL file.Then transfer the completed .STL to Cura to slice and print


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[gonper]

Originally Posted by RickM

The more I am digging into this, the more I am starting to get a bit confused about what I can and cannot do.

So, for structural Rc parts, like a-arms etc. Is there a preferred filament material? I don’t think I want it to be to hard, or it will be brittle. Also I am hearing about the slicer... Is this how this works.
1. Design something in a program... like Sketchup? BTW. Any design software recommendations would be great.
2. Pull that design into a slicer program to amend or “touch up” things.
3. Determine the best materials to use (Filiment etc.)
4. Print away

Desktop 3D printers are still far away from a paper printer that you just click print and collect the printed paper.
Still need to adjusted by the user in order to get good results.
There is hundreds of tutorials on video or text on internet from people that are really great experts on the materia.
I recommend you that you spent some days learning and testing with your machine.
Before designing on a CAD system you can download thousands of files from thingiverse and other platforms that may fit your needs.

I recommend you to start printing with PLA latter start testing with other materials.
If you want as well to start designing on CAD then I recommend you Onshape, it is free for hobbyist and far more powerful than sketch-up and actually easier to learn in my opinion. (You can export designs directly on STL format)

[Robbob]

So I noticed couple weeks ago that my heated bed wasnt turning but I wiggled the plug on the bed and it turned on. Looked farther into it and noticed the connector had that melted look to. Always knew the connector wouldnt last long so I dug around for upgrades.

Wanted a hardwired bed this time and knew I wanted a glass topper for it. found this on Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&tag=pda0ea-20

Finally got it installed and wired up and just wanted to share it. Reviews seemed to be 50/50 split on good and bad so took them for what they were. Seemed the big issue was the surface pulling up from prints but many said let the parts cool all the way and they had no problems.

Gotta agree - parts have been sticking right from the start, no need for hairspray that Ive noticed and if I let the table cool down to room temp the prints pop right off. Bed wires are thick and soldered really well to the bed. Actually happy so far with this setup so thought I would share.

Oh and had gotten thumb screws for easier bed leveling ....
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...&tag=pda0ea-20

[RickM]

Thanks all for good advice and feedback.

Actually my son and I have been finding a bunch of stuff on Thingiverse for go pro mounts. We are planning to at least start with that for us to learn.

[fuzzy1]

Engine is done with the parts I wanted, I skipped doing the fuel rail and plug wires.



Mounted

[vwdaveb]

Looks good, now if was just a Ford. Ha Ha

[nedmo]

Originally Posted by fuzzy1

Here's where she is so far, in between printing other things I still have a few parts to go, finally assembling the main components.

That looks awesome. Did you design it yourself?

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by fuzzy1

Engine is done with the parts I wanted, I skipped doing the fuel rail and plug wires.



Mounted

That's awesome! And the print quality is better than some of the popular RC 3D printing "companies"!

[fuzzy1]

Originally Posted by nedmo

That looks awesome. Did you design it yourself?

No, it's from MrcadillacSTS on thingiverse

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

That's awesome! And the print quality is better than some of the popular RC 3D printing "companies"!

I am pleasantly surprised at how good of prints I am getting off of a $250 printer, Especially since I started printing an hour of getting it set up and have been going pretty much non-stop since

[mikemcE]

What a difference !!!


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[Jim85IROC]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

What a difference !!!


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In what way? What deficiencies did this fix? I thought the all metal hot end was just so that you could print higher temp filaments?

[mikemcE]

I’ve been fighting since I added the 50mm fan and diii cooler. This and the PID tune gave me the first perfect benchy..... no teeny annoying anything.....thought it was a fluke, I followed with a “RATZ” ears and overhang were perfect, using the exact same g codes. Only diff was hotend, as I had a good PID on the stock end.
When I installed I found the ptfe tube was stuck and distorted, I suspect that was my major issue, even though no clogs


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[MasteroFlego]

First three 3d printed parts that I'm actually putting on a rig. Headlights and a bumper, all my design.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by MasteroFlego

First three 3d printed parts that I'm actually putting on a rig. Headlights and a bumper, all my design.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

The headlights are awesome! Nice job!

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Jim85IROC

In what way? What deficiencies did this fix? I thought the all metal hot end was just so that you could print higher temp filaments?

An all metal hot end has active cooling that isolates and reduces the size of the melt zone. The smaller melt zone is easier to control. Improved control of the melt zone reduces oozing and provides cleaner retractions, which improves the quality of the print.

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

An all metal hot end has active cooling that isolates and reduces the size of the melt zone. The smaller melt zone is easier to control. Improved control of the melt zone reduces oozing and provides cleaner retractions, which improves the quality of the print.

Totally accurate. I just keep amazing myself. All my errors went away, Now I can see my fine tuning adjustments working!


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