3d printer for rc parts

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

Got it actually printing now...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Watch your temp display, if erratic, you will need to do a PID autotune.
I did the mosfet on mine, as I’m using 80 on the bed. Both temps vary a degree here and there....no bouncing 4,5


Hang up and Drive

[JSterrett]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Watch your temp display, if erratic, you will need to do a PID autotune.
I did the mosfet on mine, as I’m using 80 on the bed. Both temps vary a degree here and there....no bouncing 4,5


Hang up and Drive

Temps looked good, +/- 0.5° or so...

Now that I know it can print, I'll start messing with fine tuning...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by JSterrett

Temps looked good, +/- 0.5° or so...

Now that I know it can print, I'll start messing with fine tuning...

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

Very nice.

[JSterrett]

Still need to dial it in, but it actually prints fairly well out of the box....

There was more fluctuation in the temps than I initially thought, so that will parts of the tuning for sure...








Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

[Gramps]

Tried my 1st hand at CAD using Onshape, I designed a simple wedge the is 3.75"w by 4" tall & 6" long. Looks fine in Onshape and when I loaded it into Slic3r it looks okay and the dimensions on the lower right look right. When sliced and printed it came out like this


Went back into Onshape to check the dimensions to make sure they were in fact in inches, also check that when it was exported it was also inches. If it makes any difference this is a solid object, though I didn't print it that way, did the norm 20% infill.

What in the heck am I doing wrong?

[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Tried my 1st hand at CAD using Onshape, I designed a simple wedge the is 3.75"w by 4" tall & 6" long. Looks fine in Onshape and when I loaded it into Slic3r it looks okay and the dimensions on the lower right look right. When sliced and printed it came out like this


Went back into Onshape to check the dimensions to make sure they were in fact in inches, also check that when it was exported it was also inches. If it makes any difference this is a solid object, though I didn't print it that way, did the norm 20% infill.

What in the heck am I doing wrong?

looks like it converted to mm not inches.
I know i have a plug in that converts to mm .
might be in your initial g code lines too

[Robbob]

Gcode converts measurements to steps, the machines are configured for how many steps the motors make to equal 25.4mm/1''

...... you need to convert to mm's when you save/export your file to an stl.

The printers/slicers/gcode wont convert an iso file to mm ......

Cam software for CNC can do this but I havent seen any printer softwares that ask about units used.

[Gramps]

Originally Posted by Robbob

Gcode converts measurements to steps, the machines are configured for how many steps the motors make to equal 25.4mm/1''

...... you need to convert to mm's when you save/export your file to an stl.

The printers/slicers/gcode wont convert an iso file to mm ......

Cam software for CNC can do this but I havent seen any printer softwares that ask about units used.

Exported it in mm instead of in and it looks much better on the bed in Slic3r but Octoprint show 10 hrs print time and 200+ meters of filament. Got some more learning to do.

Thanks Robbob

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Exported it in mm instead of in and it looks much better on the bed in Slic3r but Octoprint show 10 hrs print time and 200+ meters of filament. Got some more learning to do.

Thanks Robbob

It sounds like you have still have problems with the STL file. You can use Meshmixer to check the STL file for problems. If you don't have meshmixer/know how to use it, I would be willing to check your file if you can send it to me.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

It sounds like you have still have problems with the STL file. You can use Meshmixer to check the STL file for problems. If you don't have meshmixer/know how to use it, I would be willing to check your file if you can send it to me.

The STL file format doesn't represent what units that distance is measured in and contains no scale information. It just has units which can be inches or mm or miles. It doesn't matter as long as everyone using the file knows what 1 unit represents.

For 3D Printing the convention is to use 1 mm = 1 unit.

You can still create source drawings in inches if your drawing program supports it but you need to understand the conversion.

If you draw a 1 inch cube and export it in mm, you will get a STL file that represents a cube with 25.4 units(mm). If you want a 1 mm cube but want to draw in inches you need the original drawing to be .04 inch.

The easiest way to make sure everything works is to create the source drawings in millimeters, export in mm and slice in mm.

[Gramps]

Don't know if it really shows in the picture or not but starting on the left 5mm down from the top the lines are further part enough so that you can see them and feel them when dragging a fingernail across them. It was printer with what's at the top of the picture on the right side of the bed. My thought when looking at it is that the bed isn't level, more than likely left to right. Can't check it till a job finishes.

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

It sounds like you have still have problems with the STL file. You can use Meshmixer to check the STL file for problems. If you don't have meshmixer/know how to use it, I would be willing to check your file if you can send it to me.

I just googled it. Could you give some examples of when you would use this program. Its free, so if its useful I might as well give it a try.

Thanks for bringing it up.

[k7zpj]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

I just googled it. Could you give some examples of when you would use this program. Its free, so if its useful I might as well give it a try.

Thanks for bringing it up.

Meshmixer is really useful if you need to repair a STL that won't print, you need to slice a stl file into pieces so you fit it on your printer. It will also let you take STL with multiple parts and save each part as a separate STL file.

Good video on slicing with Meshmixer:




Meshmixer tips by Maker's Muse:
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?lis...GK7Sco7xI2-Hix

[whitrzac]

New hotend bits are installed. Most things appear to be good.

I'm still having the same issue I was before, any protrusions from a solid surface arn't attached for ****. The stack and flag holder on the benchy, the nubs on this, etc

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2861626

I ran my figure down the ramp and most of the nubs broke off.

[mikemcE]

Too fast , Too Cool, to thin of layers.

Do cubes until dialed in. I needed a temp Tower to find higher temp worked better, then dialed in fan.....


Hang up and Drive

[Ditchrat]

Been working in parts design using fusion 360.
Here is version 1 of an integrated front grill/bumper for a model A inspired 6x6.
Printed in a CR-10
.06 nozzle
60% infill
60 ° bed temp
200° nozzle temp
100% speed.
No support.
V2 was redesigned to get the grill to be sit belove the frame and to be wider then the frame by 1mm. I also took material out of the back side so I cam design a radiator.
You might notice two hole in the top back corner. Just like a model A hot rod I am running supports back to the tub.

In the back ground you can see the shock hoops I am working on.







Sent from my SM-G928V using Tapatalk

[Gramps]

Looking good, shouldn't it be a little taller looks to square to me for a model A

[Ditchrat]

Originally Posted by Gramps

Looking good, shouldn't it be a little taller looks to square to me for a model A

It isnt going to be a model A, just inspired from the Model A roadsters that had the grill/radiator set alone in the front, followed by an open engine compartment then the tub.

Dimensions are being altered to accommodate a functional V8 and the frame width. If I had made it proportional to model A it would have been to tall and would have blocked the supercharge intake. Besides that the whole 6x6 really throws everything off. It should be 1/14 scale, but it takes a 1/8 scale engine to make it look aggressive(?), maybe over tuned is better.

a Grill in scale would have taken away from the whole stance. Once it starts coming together and you see the engine mounted you will immediately see why the need for creative liberties.

I don't want to pollute this thread with a build. If you want to follow it is here. The WTF/3d printed/scx10 6x6 build.

[Gramps]

You guys with the Purusa style printers, like the Wanhao Duplicator i3 series use the Z brace mod on yours. Looks like a good idea but is it necessary for better prints?

[JohnRobHolmes]

only "needed" if you are doing a lot of tall prints with fast print speeds along the bed travel direction. Not typical. I put them on mine because my machine gets moved around occasionally.