02-14-2019, 05:58 PM | #901 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 767
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
My Monoprice Maker Select was a "refurb" and while I have gotten it to the point of outputting usable prints, I've never really gotten it nailed down. I have over/under-extrusion issues and I can't get the extruder temp steady no matter how many times I try a PID tune... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk | |
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02-27-2019, 07:57 PM | #902 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fargo
Posts: 75
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
What filament material would be closest to the plastic used on our rc’s, like for axle housings and skid frames? I have no printing experience, but I plan on ordering a Prusa printer to start making some stuff. From what I’m reading so far PLA sounds brittle, but PET or ABS might be good?
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02-27-2019, 08:12 PM | #903 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2017 Location: BC, Canada
Posts: 742
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
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02-27-2019, 10:53 PM | #904 |
Rock Stacker Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Fargo
Posts: 75
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
Yeah, after some reading nylon looks like a bit of hassle. I’ll look into abs more and other materials that aren’t as difficult to work with.
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02-28-2019, 04:40 AM | #905 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: Deep in the Everglades
Posts: 5,818
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
ABS is awful to work with. You’ll need an enclosure and venting Hang up and Drive |
02-28-2019, 06:05 AM | #906 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh-ish vicinity
Posts: 3,846
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
For functional parts of similar material to molded RC parts, you would be looking at glass or carbon filled nylon filaments. Straight nylon would likely have too much flex, the glass or carbon adds rigidity without making the nylon too brittle. The downside is those filaments are about $60 for a .5 kg roll. | |
02-28-2019, 06:34 AM | #907 |
Moderator Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: Readsboro, VT
Posts: 2,053
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
ABS also has the issue of shrinking. It's tough to work with if you want to make precise parts. PETG is almost as strong as ABS, but is supposed to print as well as PLA, and only requires print temps that are moderately higher than PLA, so most printers can either do it out of the box, or can be easily adapted to do it. Also keep in mind that although none of these 3D printed parts are likely to be as strong as an injection molded equivalent, if you design it properly, you can make most parts as strong as you need. The main exception is with parts like A-arms, where you really have no choice but to make it thin around the hinge pin, which will leave 3D printed parts at a disadvantage. |
02-28-2019, 10:06 AM | #908 | |
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
Can it reliably pause and resume print without issues? | |
02-28-2019, 11:49 AM | #909 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 767
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
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02-28-2019, 12:07 PM | #910 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh-ish vicinity
Posts: 3,846
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
To be fair, I have been eyeballing a Prusa for a while and was planning on picking up one later in the year. My CR10 mini has some shortcomings and by the time I fix them and add a few features that I really like on the newer printers, it would be beyond the cost of the Prusa. | |
02-28-2019, 01:02 PM | #911 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,482
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
I've used the pause print about a dozen times so far to remove clumps or clean up the nozzle and prints have not suffered at all. I paused one overnight and had no issues either, it just had to preheat for a bit then continued. | |
02-28-2019, 01:35 PM | #912 | ||
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
Does it come with the ability to print two different filament prints? Quote:
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02-28-2019, 01:50 PM | #913 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh-ish vicinity
Posts: 3,846
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts |
02-28-2019, 01:59 PM | #914 | |
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
That printer quickly escalates in price. $200 for assembly + $300 for multi-filaments - ouch! Not saying it's not worth it, but for that price I think I would want a bigger print volume. I think I'll hold off for now. | |
02-28-2019, 05:54 PM | #915 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jun 2017 Location: Humboldt county
Posts: 4,482
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
I missed the free upgrade by a month or so, they're sending free upgrade kits to folks who had printers shipped 2 week before the change over. I think the kit to upgrade from MK3 to MK3S is around $20 which is very reasonable, but I'll probably wait a while to upgrade. Here's a link to the upgrade kit https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/printer-...grade-kit.html | |
02-28-2019, 09:03 PM | #916 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Southern Oregon
Posts: 767
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
Taxes came in.... the MK3S is calling to me... lol. I wouldn't even be hesitating if I knew I could sell off some of my other printers... I have no idea what the used 3D printer market is like, or if there even really is one..... Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk |
03-01-2019, 03:04 AM | #917 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: LOMPOC
Posts: 701
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts The print volume on the Prusa is plenty big enough for parts we would print off. I have the MK2 and it works great for the pieces I want to print. I am looking into upgrading mine to the MK2.5S that has the removable bed to get the parts off easier. I use anywhere from PLA mostly, PETG, as well as Carbon PLA. They all print well on this printer. I haven't tried Nylon yet. I will be getting some in the near future to print up. If anyone is thinking about the Prusa in any form, don't hesitate. I have had mine for 3 years now and am doing a TRX4 Jeep body for me and my friend.
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03-01-2019, 06:05 AM | #918 | |
Moderator Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 13,935
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts Quote:
But, yes, it is plenty large for most everything else RC-related. | |
03-01-2019, 06:10 AM | #919 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Raleigh-ish vicinity
Posts: 3,846
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts |
03-01-2019, 09:55 PM | #920 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: San Mateo
Posts: 257
| Re: 3d printer for rc parts
I mainly print with Nylons, PC, and some ABS, rarely will I print anything in PLA or PETG, but it really depends on what it is you are printing and it's intended use, for bumpers and things that take abuse It's Nylon 1st for me, the flexibility and natural slick surface is great for crawler bumpers, skids, etc. I think PLA and PETG is good for small scale parts, interior parts like seats and dashboards etc., things that don't necessarily get beat on the rocks. I really love the look of the CF filled Nylons, I have tried many different brands and one of my favorites is Matter Hackers NylonX, it prints well and the color is nice and black, most of the others come out a more grey color, I believe this is due to the ratio of carbon fiber in the filament, It is also more flexible than the others so this leads me to believe there is more actual nylon and less CF than the others, and this is good for things like bumpers and skids. The cost may deter many from using these materials though, for some materials I can go through half a spool material before I get my settings perfected to my (high) standards so I toss a good amount of $$ into the recycle bin to get things to where I want them, but some work from the start using a one of my base profiles with minor tweaks. The strongest CF Nylon I have used to this day is this stuff: XSTRAND™ GF30-PA6 It's expensive! (500g = $89) and the finish is a bit rough but it is strong! My tips for printing Nylon. -Use a Garolite bed material, I actually use garolite for printing on with just about everything (with glue stick). - I do not print any type of nylon at less than 260c, bed usually at 90c. - Use a Brim, especially necessary for larger parts where there are large flat areas on the bed. - Use glue stick, not the purple stuff, i have the best success using Elmer's Craft Bond glue stick, I use the purple stuff for everything else. |
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