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05-10-2018, 10:02 AM | #21 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Beavercreek, Oregon, USA
Posts: 1,950
| Extruder (part 2)
I have finally got back to working on my printer. I have been off working on other people's printer problems. When you are at work, it really crimps the play time and you can't do Haribos at work. Not to mention the beer chasers. Anyway back to the extruder. Here is the hot end with the PTFE guide tube in. Notice the slight bend in the tube. It is there so that the tube will be aligned correctly for it to go into the extruder body. The PTFE tube if aligned right slides into the extruder and the hot end just snaps in. Unfortunately the part is made so that you can snap in the hot end too low with a space between the top of the hot end and the extruder body causing major problems later on. The next step is to install the cooling fan and the print fan. The cooling fan got a bit tricky. There is a channel in the extruder body for the stepper wires to go under the tan colored cooling fan. The instructions don't show the path for the wires/channel so it becomes tricky to find the right path. Also You have to play with the wires a lot to get them to fit into the channel. If you don't get it right the fan will damage the servo wires. Next is to attached the PINDA probe and route the print fan wires. Not too hard but you have to pay attention to get the loop in the probe wire right and the fan wire under it. If the fan wire is over the PINDA cable you won't be able to get it into the channels in the extruder mount. Finally got the extruder together and mounted on the printer. The wires for the stepper PINDA probe and fans are routed in channels in the back of the extruder and the extruder mount. It takes a bit of time fiddle with all of the wires making sure they are in the right place so they don't get cut when you tighten down the extruder to the mount. What a mess of wires! All of these wires have to go into a bundle that is about 5/8 of an inch in diameter. I am going to leave this until next time and have some Haribos. If you are following along here is the link to the instruction manual. 5. E-axis assembly - Prusa3D |
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05-15-2018, 03:15 PM | #22 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Beavercreek, Oregon, USA
Posts: 1,950
| Extruder Part 3
The back of the extruder has a slot just below the belt that you route the wires in so they go to the center of the extruder where a nylon filament strain relief is located. The wires of the PINDA probe and fans are routed on the top of the back wire holder while the nozzle heater and thermister wires are routed on the bottom. The wires for the filament sensor is routed down the channel in the back of the extruder. All of the wires are spiral wrapped with the nylon filament in the center. The extruder is now completed and the wire bundle is neatly wrapped ready for the electronics box. Doing the wire management is probably the hardest part of the printer assembly. If you are following along here is the link to the instruction manual. 5. E-axis assembly - Prusa3D Next up is more Haribos and then working on the LCD control panel. |
07-10-2018, 12:12 PM | #23 |
RCC Addict Join Date: Sep 2011 Location: Beavercreek, Oregon, USA
Posts: 1,950
| Re: Next 3D Printing Adventure
I hit a big speed bump in my mk3 build. A bad heat bed and problem with the controller board. The build delay got compounded by running out Haribos and time out for crawling time with the good weather. I got the printer parts replaced, replenished the German Haribos supply and managed to break all of the crawlers, so it is time to get back to the printer build. The heat bed had flux spatter all over the area where the connecting wires were soldered on. This was preventing the removable sheet from being level. The wires had really bad wicking so which was going to lead to them breaking from the movement - a really good way to get a fire from the arcing if the wire breaks. The support at Prusa Research is really good and got me a replacement bed pretty quickly. The replacement bed has screw terminals for the connecting wires and replaces the original spiral wrap with a textile sleeve. I did manage to get the installation of the LCD completed. If you are following along with the build, here is the link to the LCD installation in the manual. https://manual.prusa3d.com/Guide/6.+...ly/511?lang=en |
08-08-2018, 12:56 PM | #24 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: USA
Posts: 258
| Re: Next 3D Printing Adventure
Sweet, I'll need to read this thread. I have an MK3 on it's way to me as I type. Looking forward to reading what you have to say after I get off work!
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08-13-2018, 02:01 PM | #25 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: USA
Posts: 258
| Re: Next 3D Printing Adventure
So we are at about the same point now. I had issues with the trapazoid nut though where the threads were messed up. it just would not thread easily. I tried an X Acto to chase the threads, heating the rod with a heat gun, all the tricks (if you follow the online instructions there are comments below that can help clarify and even offer solutions to build issues) with mediocre success. It threads and sspins now, but no where near as freely as the opposite side. Apparently this is not an uncommon issue. it's not the alignment either because i tried the "nut" independently of the axis and frame on each rod and that one bad nut is tough on either side, the other one is like butter on either side. For now it's on, but I know it will cause calibration issues due to one side moving so much better than the other. About 5 mins on the 24/7 chat tech support line and another part is on the way. This however is my first 3d printer so I fear the build is actually the smaller part of what I need to do. Last edited by IPT; 08-13-2018 at 03:37 PM. |
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