Laserjet acetone print transfer

[Voodoobrew]

If you reverse an image you can print it with a laser jet printer and soak it with acetone to transfer it.

I just set the paper on the car and carefully rubbed nail polish remover into it for 30 seconds to a minute and pealed it off.

EDIT: DON'T USE ACETONE ON LEXAN!
No idea if acetone is safe for lexan. I did it on PETG and primer.
The image transfer is sub par but had exactly the look I was going for.
For a better image transfer use polyurethane clear or a gel medium and let dry a few hours then scrub till the paper falls apart.

Mostly I have seen this done on wood but it can work on glass and paint.

I actually used non acetone fingernail polish remover for this one. I have 3 fingernail polish removers one is mostly acetone, the other 2 are a pink and a blue non acetone remover, all 3 work about the same.

[indybama]

So thats just a pic on paper n the ink transfered from the paper to the body? Thats pretty cool. Plus it gave it that worn look

Sent from my SM-J327VPP using Tapatalk

[Voodoobrew]

Yes the warn look is from the transfer not the print.

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Awesome technique, but Acetone destroys Lexan. It will melt it if left soaking, even with brief exposure it leaves the Lexan extremely brittle.

I'll definitely be using that method where I can.


(PS - Unrelated but I've been experimenting Ethyl Acetate [non-acetone nail polish remover] for smoothing PETG prints and it works pretty well - haven't tried a vapor method wiping w ith a Q-tip works really well)

[Ditchrat]

You would be better served using waterslide paper for what ever printer you might have.

[OSRC]

Originally Posted by QuesoDelDiablo

Awesome technique, but Acetone destroys Lexan. It will melt it if left soaking, even with brief exposure it leaves the Lexan extremely brittle.

Yup, removed some spray from a body when I picked up the wrong can. Acetone ate it right off - didn't use much, but the lexan is now super brittle in that corner. I reinforced with shoe-goo and mesh, but shocked at how quick it changed the lexan.

Definitely use with care.

[Ditchrat]

Just noticed the rig, Im printing your designs as I type this.


Thanks for putting it out there.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by QuesoDelDiablo

(PS - Unrelated but I've been experimenting Ethyl Acetate [non-acetone nail polish remover] for smoothing PETG prints and it works pretty well - haven't tried a vapor method wiping w ith a Q-tip works really well)

That's why I originally bought this fingernail polish, i also have the pink methel acetate, I couldent get either one to smooth my PETG prints. could you tell me about your results with times? I used Priline PETG not that that should matter.

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Originally Posted by Voodoobrew

That's why I originally bought this fingernail polish, i also have the pink methel acetate, I couldent get either one to smooth my PETG prints. could you tell me about your results with times? I used Priline PETG not that that should matter.

I've got very limited data so far but I'll PM you later about this.

[tuxstang]

Originally Posted by Ditchrat

You would be better served using waterslide paper for what ever printer you might have.

Waterslide paper is great ... can be used from inside with lexan

(clear for the whole ice-cream theme)

or outside with hard-body and lexan

(clear for door numbers, white for roof flag and Daisy's shirt)

[JohnRobHolmes]

I thought this looked familiar! I was wondering how you did it.



Priline petg is great if you preheat to drive out moisture. I have a jerky maker converted to filament dryer. Their pla is kinda terrible though.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

I thought this looked familiar! I was wondering how you did it.



Priline petg is great if you preheat to drive out moisture. I have a jerky maker converted to filament dryer. Their pla is kinda terrible though.

My sides are alwayse clean enough for me. Occasional blob in solid areas I also don't worry about. Mostly just working on correcting sag in the underhangs, don't think a dryer will help with that. I just bought a second extruder to make 0mm ofset supports in pla. Just waiting for it to arive. I read the 2 different filaments won't bond so you can make a perfect sphere no problem.

My most recent batch is the Amazon basics Petg so far its good.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by tuxstang

Waterslide paper is great ... can be used from inside with lexan

Kinda pricy at a doller a sheet but im Prolly going to get some.

[JohnRobHolmes]

dry filament also bridges better. Would be rad to use pla for supports only though, sounds like a decent idea for dual extruders if the oozing doesn't get out of control. I would want a petg prime pillar at least.

[Voodoobrew]

Originally Posted by JohnRobHolmes

dry filament also bridges better. Would be rad to use pla for supports only though, sounds like a decent idea for dual extruders if the oozing doesn't get out of control. I would want a petg prime pillar at least.

It will be 2 side by side bowden e3d V6's so i think no need for a prime pillar, It would be too risky having filaments with 50 degree different temps using the same extruders.

[splyn]

love it

[vwdaveb]

Laser jet, Inkjet right? My Make gear has oozing issues at times, I have 3 e3d V6's been thinking of converting my Makergear M2 to these extruders. Seen some folks with very good results that way. Have the parts to put a Prusa I3 together, why I have the E3d's, one is a knockoff.

I've used a bit of printable decal paper on some custom Diecast that I use to do, and on the outside of my RC bodies. I assume when reversing for the inside you have to trim close also? Wish you could get white onto clear paper with an Injket.