Torque Screwdriver

[zohsix]

Hello,

Starting my first kit build and after reading about stripped hex heads or threads due to overtightening it made me wonder if anyone uses a manual torque screwdriver for assembly?

Regards,

Dan

[svt923]

Never tried any torque wrench handles but 99% of stripped screws in RC come down to 1 of 2 problems:

1: Cheap or worn tools with poor fit in the screws
2: Overtightening like a ham-fisted gorilla

Instead of buying some fancy screwdriver handle to torque every screw to .75 ft/lbs or whatever ridiculously light measurement it would be just buy good tools (RC specific preferred, the majority of full size tool companies don't have good tolerances at these small sizes), stop tightening when you feel the screw head contact whatever you are installing it into, and use thread lock on any screws threading into metal.

Like anything, it just takes practice.

[JatoTheRipper]

Good torque screwdrivers are expensive if you don't already have one. And the difficult part is finding torque specs on little screws especially when screwed into plastics. I use a torque screwdriver on my guns, but not on RCs.

You just have to learn not to strip plastic. Get the screw bottomed out on the surface and then stop. There's no need to go tighter. Plastic holds screws without torque. If you are screwing into metal use blue thread lock.

Also, every time you remove and install a screw into plastic try to get it in the same hole. You can do this by turning the screw counterclockwise, as if you were loosening it, and it should fall into the preexisting threads.

Even with all of this some holes still strip even on brand new kits if they are molded incorrectly.

[mikemcE]

A good torque driver for these fasteners is pricey....and not needed as Jato said.

http://www.techni-tool.com/Results?e...%20Screwdriver

[brian.brigg]

I bought an M3 recoil kit right after my MIPS hex drivers. Used it once on a Chinese beadlock and twice on plastic. You can really feel the difference with the stainless recoil inserts in place.

I've recently bought a small handled set of hex drivers as well to minimise any results of ham-fistedness. I can always use the normal set to add a touch more torque where needed.

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[zane!]

Personally, I wouldn't trust any torque wrench/driver with bolts threaded into plastic. You will very quickly learn the hand feeling of "snug but not too tight" when threading into plastic, and a preset torque driver may exceed that and strip the plastic threads.

As for the hex heads stripping, with proper RC tools there is close to zero chance that the heads will strip before the plastic threads strip. For a basic starter kit the Dynamite ratcheting kits are pretty good.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by brian.brigg

I bought an M3 recoil kit right after my MIPS hex drivers. Used it once on a Chinese beadlock and twice on plastic. You can really feel the difference with the stainless recoil inserts in place.

Do you have a link to that kit?

[QuesoDelDiablo]

Originally Posted by JatoTheRipper

Do you have a link to that kit?

Not exactly what he was talking about, this is brass, but here's what I use on stripped holes (works on plastic, overdrill to use in aluminum).

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0185930


or, a thread-in version:

https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0123204

[brian.brigg]

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/330311...A1560818522096

I like the tool for inserting the coils because it holds the coil firmly in a thread. The only minor drawback is that you can't see how much of your coil remains to be inserted so I just veeery gently try to lift the tool, if it moves away easily then the coil is fully inserted. The kit includes some coils from 1D in half sizes to 3D.

I don't know what the arrowhead tool is for. Maybe somebody can enlighten me.

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[brian.brigg]

A nice, instructive video.

https://youtu.be/QXt6F-J0IWs

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[GCi in ATX]

If you look for tools used on bicycles you can find some relatively less expensive torque tools in in/lbs or newtons (for the metrically inclined). They still aren't cheap, but their less pricey (and less accurate) that industrial tools.

I don't know what the arrowhead tool is for.

Usually it's for chamfering the hole mouth if it needs it.

[brian.brigg]

Originally Posted by GCi in ATX

If you look for tools used on bicycles you can find some relatively less expensive torque tools in in/lbs or newtons (for the metrically inclined). They still aren't cheap, but their less pricey (and less accurate) that industrial tools.









Usually it's for chamfering the hole mouth if it needs it.

Thanks for the information. Handy to know what it's for and I can see how it could be needed sometimes.

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[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by GCi in ATX

If you look for tools used on bicycles you can find some relatively less expensive torque tools in in/lbs or newtons (for the metrically inclined). They still aren't cheap, but their less pricey (and less accurate) that industrial tools.




Usually it's for chamfering the hole mouth if it needs it.

Chamfering is merely removing the top ridge around the opening

[JC3]

You guys are recoiling in plastic! Holy crap, never even thought of that. Very interesting.

[JatoTheRipper]

Originally Posted by brian.brigg

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/330311...A1560818522096

I like the tool for inserting the coils because it holds the coil firmly in a thread. The only minor drawback is that you can't see how much of your coil remains to be inserted so I just veeery gently try to lift the tool, if it moves away easily then the coil is fully inserted. The kit includes some coils from 1D in half sizes to 3D.

I don't know what the arrowhead tool is for. Maybe somebody can enlighten me.

Originally Posted by brian.brigg

A nice, instructive video.

https://youtu.be/QXt6F-J0IWs

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Thank you for both links! I may have to pick one of these up at some point.