Print not sticking

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by k7zpj

Here is a link to the manual process for leveling: https://all3dp.com/2/ender-3-bed-lev...-need-to-know/


For the leveling gcode / process on Thingiverse search for the user: Ingenioso3D
The name of the thing is: Ender 3/5 Bed leveling G-CODE + test print + LCD STEPS UPDATE 28/11/19

Thanks man. I’m going to try this. Also got some alcohol I’ll wipe the bed with.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Should my Bowden tube look like this where the coupler goes onto the extruder? It’s almost threaded.



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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

My bed came really clean!



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[Bray D]

I don’t know how I missed all of these updates. Good to see you’re still digging into it.

I swapped to a Capricorn tube and noticed that my original tube looked similar to yours when I removed it. I’d probably suggest cutting out that portion before reinstalling if you have enough slack to comfortably do so. Make sure the cut is as square as you can get it if you cut it. They make specific cutters for it.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Bray D

I don’t know how I missed all of these updates. Good to see you’re still digging into it.

I swapped to a Capricorn tube and noticed that my original tube looked similar to yours when I removed it. I’d probably suggest cutting out that portion before reinstalling if you have enough slack to comfortably do so. Make sure the cut is as square as you can get it if you cut it. They make specific cutters for it.

Thanks for responding! I still have no clue what the problem is, but I need a few things for my TRX4,so I think I’ll order that stuff, a magnetized bed, and a Capricorn tubing with the couplers off of Amazon. And then I’ll go from there. Figured I might as well get them now while I’m figuring out the problem.


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[Bray D]

The tab should push those teeth back so you can slide the tube in either direction, but if that's not working, I think you can still do what you need to do by only sliding it one direction.

Disconnect it from the extruder end if you need to and slide the coupler all the way off that end. Thread the (now loose) coupler back into your hot end and only re-insert the tube when you're ready to do so for final assembly.

Re-connect at the extruder end and you should be ready to go.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Bray D

The tab should push those teeth back so you can slide the tube in either direction, but if that's not working, I think you can still do what you need to do by only sliding it one direction.

Disconnect it from the extruder end if you need to and slide the coupler all the way off that end. Thread the (now loose) coupler back into your hot end and only re-insert the tube when you're ready to do so for final assembly.

Re-connect at the extruder end and you should be ready to go.

Ok, thank you. I’ll definitely try that.

Sorry I edited my post to where your response doesn’t make since!


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[Bray D]

Haha no worries. My Capricorn tube came with a cutter and fittings. If yours does too you'll be 100% good to go. Definitely a good move.

[mikemcE]

Quick thought, what is the distance between your print head and bed when leveling and how do you level it?

If you’re using paper, it might be too close. Heavy paper/construction paper works for all my printers.
But inkjet paper is too thin.


Hang up and Drive

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Bray D

Haha no worries. My Capricorn tube came with a cutter and fittings. If yours does too you'll be 100% good to go. Definitely a good move.

Yeah, should I get 1 meter long or 2 meters long? I was thinking 2 meters for an extra.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Quick thought, what is the distance between your print head and bed when leveling and how do you level it?

If you’re using paper, it might be too close. Heavy paper/construction paper works for all my printers.
But inkjet paper is too thin.


Hang up and Drive

I have used a few different things to test around with it. I started with paper, then I folded paper to be double thick, then I used an informational card that came with the printer. It’s definitely thicker than paper.


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Also noticed the end of my Bowden tube was burnt at the extruder end, probably because I heated it up to 240C to try and clean it.


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[Bray D]

Get as much as you want, but 2m is super long. You should be able to get two full tubes out of 1m easily.

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by Bray D

Get as much as you want, but 2m is super long. You should be able to get two full tubes out of 1m easily.

Yeah, I just converted it, that’s over 6.5ft I’ll be plenty good with 1m


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[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Soo, my printer is working again...sort of. It prints straight lines perfectly fine, but any curved or circle line it’s just doesn’t. For example, a simple squared off flat bracket with 2 1/8” screw holes on both ends. Does the skirt/outline/infill fine, but fails on both screw holes. It does this on anything I’ve attempted to print with screw holes.

Any ideas? Does this sound like a printer problem, or something I’ve done?


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[mikemcE]

Look in your Cura, it has an option to “fill holes”

I found it the hard way


Hang up and Drive

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Look in your Cura, it has an option to “fill holes”

I found it the hard way


Hang up and Drive

Lmao, alright, I’ll check it in the morning


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[mikemcE]

Originally Posted by ScaleLifeNewbie

Lmao, alright, I’ll check it in the morning


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Cura by Michael Mcelligott, on Flickr


under Mesh Fixes, down low

[ScaleLifeNewbie]

Originally Posted by mikemcE

Cura by Michael Mcelligott, on Flickr


under Mesh Fixes, down low

Under Overlapping Volumes is checked, and nothing else is.

Any other ideas? Sorry, I am kind of relying on this thread for help atm, until I figure this out.


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[Bray D]

What do you mean by fail? Does it even attempt to make the hole or does it seem like the holes aren’t in the g code?