04-17-2007, 10:58 AM | #21 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: G6'N
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04-17-2007, 12:08 PM | #22 | |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
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I wouldn't call my self a pro but you will have a hard time getting them exact everytime. What I do to match one side to another is basically place the first piece on the bench and bend the second one to match. Mark cut lines on both pieces then fishmouth. I also haven't touched my bending tool in over a year. I've bent everything by hand. It makes it easier to feel the bends and match that feeling in your fingers. | |
04-17-2007, 12:16 PM | #23 | |
Adilynsdad too! Join Date: May 2004 Location: G ville
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04-17-2007, 12:44 PM | #24 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Vegas
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04-17-2007, 12:52 PM | #25 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Merritt Island
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I am learning the brazing art now, and have found that the benders just don't cut it. They tend to not get tight enough for me, here are a few things I have learned so far:
Last edited by RCCrawlerTT; 04-17-2007 at 12:56 PM. |
04-17-2007, 01:03 PM | #26 |
I wanna be Dave Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: between heaven and hell.
Posts: 3,367
| I don't heat it up, uless I'm going to be flatten or oddly shape something out of solid rod with a hammer and anvil (that's on the back of the vise). But then I'll dunk it in water while it's still red hot. Supposidly that will help keep it strong. RCCcrawlerTT has made some verry good points, that I've also used. I'll use the vise in the same way for bends that are shallow or next to the end of my material that I can't hold in my hand to make the bend. I've also started a jig for one of my tuber designs that I'm using the same method as the wood with drill stops although I'm not using drill stops but other similar materials. |
04-17-2007, 03:08 PM | #27 | |
PapaGriz Yo Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: In the garage building the wife a crawler
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In college, we heat treated the stainless steel wheel spindles for our FSAE race car by heating them to about 800 degrees F and quenching them in 30 weight motor oil. Last edited by Grizzly4x4; 04-17-2007 at 10:19 PM. | |
04-17-2007, 07:38 PM | #28 |
Quarry Creeper Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Juneau Alaska
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04-17-2007, 07:55 PM | #29 |
Pebble Pounder Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Merritt Island
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This will probably go against popular concensus with that people will say, but if I were to have to get one of those, I'd go with the middle one. It is more simple to setup when working and does basically just like the picture I posted above. Let us know what you get and how you like it! |
04-22-2007, 10:18 PM | #30 |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Santa Rosa
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Yeah, let us know which you pick and how it works. I contemplated getting the bender in the last photo. Are those from Micro-Mark? |
04-22-2007, 11:46 PM | #31 |
06 Super National Champ Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Stark Industries Bar and Grill
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According to the image properties, they're from micromark. I still bend everything by hand on the back side of my 6" bench vise. I can keep things symmetrical from left to right too, just takes planning and patience. |
04-23-2007, 09:37 AM | #32 | |
Rock Crawler Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Santa Rosa
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I unfortunately don't have easy access to a bench vise. The vise is out in the detatched garabe. I did however make a simple little bender using my Dremel tool hanger and some nylon spacers. Works pretty good so far, just need to get better at the symetry. | |
04-24-2007, 07:17 PM | #33 |
Newbie Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: davenport
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filling the tube with sand while bending will prove to help prevent the tubing from kinking in one spot during the bend, fill the tube up full, and cap the ends with whatever method you see fit as long as the caps or tape or whatever you use is secure, then bend, helps alot in tight bends.. or using a stiff spring that fits snugly over the outside of the tubing also helps, but is harder to come by in the various outer diameters used with tubing... |
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