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Old 07-20-2007, 11:17 PM   #21
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Brush on a thin coat of epoxy then wait for it to set up a bit and get real sticky, then apply fresh coat of epoxy and lay the cloth it will soak up the fresh glue and stick to the first coat. It sticks real good. Then wait, the first layer of cloth will start to set up and get sticky apply a fresh coat of glue and lay in the second layer of cloth.

If you get spots that won't stay down it is usually caused by too much epoxy, use a paper towel to soak up the excess, it will help it to stick down.


MikeP
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Old 07-21-2007, 09:16 AM   #22
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so ur pretty much just putting on some layers of glue and the cloth

thx
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Old 07-21-2007, 12:41 PM   #23
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You are the quintessential master craftsman and probably some genius mixed in as well thanks for a great article.

Loved your Axel work on Naz-T's rig as well
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Old 08-02-2007, 01:38 PM   #24
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Looks good. I made carbon fiber doors and hood for my Bronco. Came out great.
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Old 08-03-2007, 07:25 PM   #25
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A few notes on the West Systems Epoxys.

I have found that the ratio pumps are fairly accurate but the use of a scale is much much better.

And if you store the resins for a prolonged period of time the pumps will get gummed up if not properly cleaned first.
If you have a scale (which is quite useful for other odds and ends ) it is much more accurate and will last longer.

Also if you can get in good with someone at West Marine any of their store brand items can be discounted to 50% or more. This includes the West System Epoxies which are not necessarily cheap (unless you are comparing to to Hysol).
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Old 08-05-2007, 11:45 PM   #26
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Wow, I haven't seen those old Twister stickers in a long time.

Nice tutorial. This may come in handy for some future projects.
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Old 08-06-2007, 12:56 AM   #27
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[quote=_BEN_;794875]

If you have a scale (which is quite useful for other odds and ends ) it is much more accurate and will last longer.



hahaha
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:29 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OGmicromonster View Post
Wow, I haven't seen those old Twister stickers in a long time.

Possibly showing you age

Do you remember Hot Trick Stuff?
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:47 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Poulson View Post
Possibly showing you age

Do you remember Hot Trick Stuff?
I probably am showing my age. I've been into RC since '86. But not into racing until '92. I remember hearing of Hot Trick. Didn't they make stuff for the Tamiya Sand Scorcher and such?
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Old 08-06-2007, 10:00 PM   #30
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Back in 1988 Hot Trick Stuff was sold to PRO-LINE and i worked with BILL STEELE, the guy who came up with all the RED stuff. what a bone head that guy was.
But the guy that owned TWISTER motors was cool!!
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Old 08-21-2007, 05:25 PM   #31
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where do i get the cf sheets? at the lhs? would a few layers be enough to make a boat hull?
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Old 08-21-2007, 08:46 PM   #32
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They sell it on ebay. There is a shortage though so it will not be cheap.
www.fiberglast.com also

How are you planning on forming it? Also practice with some fiberglass way cheaper and easier to work with.
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Old 08-22-2007, 07:35 AM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumpjumper21 View Post
where do i get the cf sheets? at the lhs? would a few layers be enough to make a boat hull?
You need to make your own sheets.
What type of hull you want to build?
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Old 08-22-2007, 02:41 PM   #34
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Mike, this is the method I was thinking of using for the full body idea... think it will work? Did you get your supplies at a marina? If I could pick them up locally I'll have a better chance of actually doing this... hahahahaha

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Old 08-22-2007, 08:52 PM   #35
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Most towns have a West Marine boat supply store, they carry all West systems products. I think most boat supply stores have the epoxy.
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:56 AM   #36
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The west systems epoxy's are good for beginners.
But if you have a scale and can figure out ratios. You will be good to go.

Cheap scale + cheap ebay epoxy's will cost less than a west systems epoxy set up.

West systems:
Pump Kit $12.00
105 Resin $35.00 (quart)
205 Hardener $17.00 (Pint)
+ S&H + Taxes

Ebay:
Scale- $20.00 (reusable unlike the pumps) http://cgi.ebay.com/SCALE-AND-ASHTRA...QQcmdZViewItem
Epoxy- $17.00 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Epoxy...spagenameZWDVW
Plus S&H of course.

Also I forgot to mention. Due to the shortage of carbon fiber cloth scammers are capitalizing on the situation. They are passing off fiberglass that has been dyed black as CF.
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Old 08-23-2007, 11:03 AM   #37
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FYI on the scale:

You will need a scale that will fit the scale of your project. Get it?

If you are mixing in dixy cups something that has a maxx capacity of one pound will work perfect.

If you are mixing in popcorn tubs or casino tumblers. You may need something that goes up to five pounds.

And before you ever start you shoud wrap some sulifane plastic over the scale otherwise you will ruin it if you drip chemicals on it.

Whenever working with composites. Always ensure your work area is CLEAN and dust free. Clean before you start, clean mid way through clean afterwards.
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Old 10-07-2007, 03:20 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _BEN_ View Post
Ebay:
Scale- $20.00 (reusable unlike the pumps) http://cgi.ebay.com/SCALE-AND-ASHTRA...QQcmdZViewItem

So you use this scale for "other" stuff, hmmm! So party's at your house?
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Old 10-08-2007, 12:25 PM   #39
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The system will also work for fiberglass if youre not into the carbon look. I get my 1:1 supplies from fiberglast.com

I got my gelcoat gun from them and the small tools to work out bubbles. IF get true gelcoat and you have ANY intension on painting on it get gelcoat that doesn't have any wax in it. Boat stores sell all kinds of gelcoat but some does have wax in it which will make it dam near imposible to paint on. If you get it without it won't hurt anything even if you're not going to paint on it.. It just makes it easier to use one product then to have to remember what one you need this time.
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Old 10-12-2007, 01:06 PM   #40
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nice write up mike!!

looks kinda like when i was using fiberglass to fix a grill i was working on!

so theoretically, can i take part i already have, set it in the box and make a mold, to have a indentical or very close to identical part?
is there a way to cast parts in a similar fashion? small parts may be difficult to work with the cloth. :?
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