Best Tools for cutting CF ??

[4XADICT]

I was thinking of getting a scroll saw to cut out Carbon Fiber chassis plates and some other bits. What bldes should I use ? I`m thinking the spiral blades with as many TPI as possible would work best. Any better way to cut this stuff ? Before someone even says it, No, I don`t have a water jet available.

[BultacoJim]

For the thinner pieces (.020 and smaller), you can actually just use a good pair of scissors. For thicker material, you may be able to use tin-snips, but the optimal method is to use a band saw or scroll saw. Fast-cutting, as when you use a jigsaw or circular saw, tends to make a lot of dust, and can leave a less-smooth cut. So, slow-cutting is typically better. When using a saw, it is a good idea to protect the glossy finish from scratches, with some masking or similar tape. Finish up the edges with a 100 grit sandpaper to take the rough spots off, then detail with 400 grit sandpaper. If you have a lot of money, then you can use a Waterjet or Laser-cutting service. (Although laser-cutting carbon fiber tends to really stink as the material burns!)

The main thing you need to know is to wear protection! Whether you're cutting or sanding, you need to wear eye protection, mask, and long sleeves. Gloves are wise to use as well. Basically, the less exposed skin you have, the better. Don't breathe the dust (another reason to use slow-cutting methods- less dust). Basically the main danger is splinters. They are annoying and can be painful, so just be careful to avoid them. Also, DON'T BREATHE THE DUST.

Regular old scroll saw blades will work, but they dull rapidly. If you do a lot of cutting, a diamond blade for scroll saws will last a lot longer and generates the least amount of dust. It does require a water drip system though. :? Here’s a source for Diamond Scroll saw blades.

http://www.scrollit.com/Olson%20Scro...saw_blades.htm


Materials Safety Data Sheet:
http://www.robotcombat.com/images/CF...ial_safety.pdf

[bigfoot]

go with the band saw thats what i use ans it works great if you draw a line on the CF you cant see it and the cuts are uneven..........so i use a silver sharpie
hope that helps

[rock hard]

people still prefer a bandsaw?

I plan to do some work with carbon and wondered in the ways to do it has improved since 2005.

I dont have access to a water jet.
I do have access to a dremel.

will it damage the edge.
this will be a prototype so it doesnt have to look real good.
but I dont want to butcher it.

[JeepinDoug]

Carbide, carbide and more carbide.

I will rough mill large profiles, such as chassis side plates with a 3/16 or larger endmill. The variable binders they use in CF could load up an endmill.
I'll then use barrel sanders to finish.
Small pieces I use a dremel zip wheels and burr-bits or roto-files.
I always finish with barrels, then sand with paper.
Sharpie to color the edge and thin CA for protection.

[Joat]

http://www.proxxon.com/us/html/popupindex.html
with a water cooling kit , but if your doing inside cuts you need a scroll, I dont know of any water cooled scroll saws.

[BigSki]

most importantly, wear a full face respirator. You DO NOT want to breath in the graphite dust that is generated when cutting the CF. I work w/ this stuff on a daily basis, it's messy and nasty to deal with.

As mentioned above, we use a diamond 'friction' blade on a band saw to rough cut our parts, then they either get cut to a final shape w/ a diamond encrusted router bit on a 5 axis CNC cutter or a water jet machine.

[rock hard]

I guess the watewr keeps the dust down?
or the blade cool?or both.

[Joat]

Originally Posted by rock hard

I guess the watewr keeps the dust down?
or the blade cool?or both.

Both, there is no dust , if the water is moving fast enough, it keeps the blade cool which is a real plus when cutting metal, no mess other then water spray and bits of material in the water, it's pricey but well worth it, I do not use the water kit they sell, I made my own that is a recirculation type, cost about $20 and some hoses I had laying around, but I will be changing out the catch for a larger one, and making it into a seperate sump style system, maybe another $25 for that mod,but far superior to anything proxxon sell, I also made a fence and a table extension.

[mrpink]

Originally Posted by bigski

most importantly, wear a full face respirator. You do not want to breath in the graphite dust that is generated when cutting the cf. I work w/ this stuff on a daily basis, it's messy and nasty to deal with.

x10000000

[Narly1]

For simple work at home consider hand cutting with this (under running water):

http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/s...k=P_PartNumber

Downside is that it has quite a wide kerf, not the best for intricate cutting.

Narly1

[exploreron40s]

Don't use Spiral Blades on the Scroll Saw, they tend to walk (run away) from your cut line when you are using them. If you buy quality blades with a medium TPI, they work best. Large TPI Blades wear out fast and small TPI blades will cut rough and cause chew out in the material. Make sure you buy a blade lube stick for the scroll saw. It will not only lengthen the life of the blade, but will also help with the friction between the CF and the side of the blade which will reduce the likelihood of burning the CF Edges. Hope that helps.

[rock hard]

also I'm thinking about making a mockup from balsa do some testing and after I get it pined down what I want,finding someone to make me several sets.

[Captaincrash]

I would caution using saws with traditional "wood cutting" blades as the low TPI causes the teeth to de-laminate the CF. I have had the best luck with Diamond cutting discs in a dremel and finishing with a small drum sander in the dremel as well, taking my time as to not build up too much heat. Just my opinion!!

[hellbounder]

if i need straight lines in some really thick cf, i use a tile wet saw.