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Thread: Berg Clocking Fixture, $20

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Old 01-02-2009, 07:05 PM   #1
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Default Berg Clocking Fixture, $20

Okay Berg owners................finally, a way that takes the guessing out of clocking your axles.
I highly suggest using a sharp #39 or #40 drill, a 3/32" drill will work fine and probably easiest for most but you must take extra precaution while tapping the smaller pilot hole.
This is my stock axle, preclocking.



Here's how it works....
Attach the fixture to the axle flange using three longer 3mm screws. The fixture is marked "L" for long side or "S" for short side.

Keep the drill oiled and clear of chips, take your time. I drilled mine just holding the tube in my hand making sure not to drill my hand also.

Remove the fixture and if you can, counter sink the hole to capture the tap. One pilot hole will drill into the bearing boss relief and is tough to countersink.


I suggest using a new tap, do not risk using a tap you've used for everything over the past few years. You don't want to break a tap here.
Take your time starting an oiled tap, 3 - 4 turns and back the tap out 3/4 turns, drive it back another 3 turns and then take it completely out.
I have a aerosol can lid with motor oil, I just shake the tap in the oil and all the chips come of the tap.
Repeat this process until the tap turns freely out the other side of the flange.
Once all three holes are tapped I use WD-40 as an air gun to blow out all the chips.

Before reassembly you still need to take care of the bearing boss relief.
I held the tube up against case and sharpied where I need to cut the relief back to. With a dremel tool and an 1/8" carbide ball end I cut each relief in seconds, it doesn't take much removal to clear the case.

When it was finished everything assembled perfectly.


The clocking fixture is machined for a 20 degree clock. It is also, what I would consider, light duty. Not meant for mass production meaning...... one pair of axles will be perfect, a second set of axles should be fine but a third set of axles may be pushing the life limits of this 6061 T6 fixture. Lifetime will vary with cutting tool quality and use cycles.

If you want more clocking you have the option of longer links or using the clocking fixture again for another 20 degrees. You can clock for 40 degrees and shorten the upper links.

My Berg turned out pretty good. I will probably clock more with longer links for the rear.

I can not guarantee clocking your axle will leave you room for the case and triangulation of lower links.
Feel free to PM me with questions.

Thanks to Binaryterror for inspiration with his PDF file for clocking the Berg, your clocking fixture is in the mail.

I have a limited quantity of these fixtures with the capability of making more soon.
The price is $20 shipped USPS First Class.

The Ultimate Berg Clocker is $21.50 and more info is found later in this thread;


A special thanks to "skid plate" for being the guinea pig and discovering these will work with Hot-Racing axles also.

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Contact me by PM, either ask for my Paypal addy or ask me to invoice you.
Thanks for checking out the goodies.

Last edited by JeepinDoug; 03-20-2009 at 08:49 PM.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:11 PM   #2
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nice idea
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:12 PM   #3
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That's a slick little tool.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:13 PM   #4
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nice idea

X2
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:14 PM   #5
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Seriously slick. That and the link end hole bushing thing. Dude, where were you like 4 years ago? Awesome ideas.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:17 PM   #6
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:26 PM   #7
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Seriously slick. That and the link end hole bushing thing. Dude, where were you like 4 years ago? Awesome ideas.
No kidding.

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You just HAVE to have one of everything dont you?
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:36 PM   #8
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First your rod-end/link tool, and now this...very nice
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:37 PM   #9
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Default I Love This Hobby!

The cool thing about this hobby is the ideas that people come up with, like yours. Yea you can buy a RTR crawler, but that is just the start of it, even a RTR needs tweaking! And tweaking is the fun part, weather its an idea of you own or a idea you have learned from a fellow member of RCC. Cool product, great idea!
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:48 PM   #10
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Thanks guys.

I should also mention the fixture is .510" long, that's an length over diameter ratio of 5-1 to unsure a nice square hole..............huh square hole? Square to the flange face .
I don't know if this would work for Bullys or HRs, or if it's needed for those.
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:51 PM   #11
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PM sent
$ sent

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You just HAVE to have one of everything dont you?
Just the good stuff it helps with the bad nervous condition
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Old 01-02-2009, 07:56 PM   #12
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$ sent


Just the good stuff it helps with the bad nervous condition



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Old 01-02-2009, 10:45 PM   #13
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Default It works great!

I was fortunate enough to be the 1st tester. It allowed me to take on a job that I was nervous about doing. Works flawlessly, nice job Doug.


Axle apart and ready for surgery



Fixture attached with 3 ea. 3x25 screws



Add oil in hole and to drill bit & tap





Deep fried a Turkey while this process was going on to keep things interesting.



Clean out



Marking bearing boss for material removal



Be sure to add lock tite



Mounted



Finished product



P.S. Though frying a turkey is completely optional, it is a great reward for a job well done.

Last edited by dpdsurf; 01-03-2009 at 12:05 AM.
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Old 01-02-2009, 10:55 PM   #14
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Fantastic idea!

Love the innovation!
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Old 01-02-2009, 11:50 PM   #15
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sweet i cant wate to get one
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:09 AM   #16
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sweet i cant wate to get one
Sounds like someone picked up some new axles. You won't be disappointed with this tool, makes the job pretty fail safe.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:12 AM   #17
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Default Hr moa?

Will this work for the HR axles or will you be making one for that?
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:39 AM   #18
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Will this work for the HR axles or will you be making one for that?
I've been told they're the same but I really do not know.

Great write up Dave, thanks...........now I'm hungry
Damn, you scared me too, I didn't engrave your fixture.
These fixtures are engraved now;
For the long side the "L" must be facing out (readable while attached to the long side).
For the short side the "S" must be facing out, (readable while attached to the short side).

Last edited by JeepinDoug; 01-03-2009 at 12:47 AM.
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:51 AM   #19
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nice job cant wate to see what you come out with next
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Old 01-03-2009, 12:14 PM   #20
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